Mods: b20/vtec with jdm ITR conversion (mugen fascia)
DIY Oil Catch Can -- How to
*For LS or B20/vtec's without the black canister (where the PCV valve sits) on the back of the engine block (since 97 and up LS's PCV is located on the valve cover -- same with B20B's and Z's), you will need to either:
A. Drill and tap a PCV nipple on the block.
B. Purchase an Oil Cooler Joint from a 97+ Prelude (Part No. 11107-pk2-003). This part will replace the hex nut located behind the block right next to the oil filter. Unscrew the nut and replace it with the new hex nut with the barbed nipple.
Parts
Moroso Dry Sump Breather Tank (Oil Catch Can). # 85470.
$67.95 @ Summit Racing
PCV Valve (real application is a Ford truck)
Fram FV294
$1.99 @ Kragen Auto Parts
Help! Ford PCV Valve rubber grommet #42048.
$4.99 @ Kragen Auto Parts
Watts 3/8" I.D. Barb to MIP Adapter # A-294.
$1.48 @ Home Depot
Watts 3/8" Barb Splicer #A-290
$1.39 @ Home Depot
3/8" ID high-pressure reinforced tubing (10 feet)
$5.25 @ Home Depot
Teflon Tape.
$.58 @ Home Depot
3/4" OD hose clamps. 6.
$1.50 @ Home Depot
Installation Instructions:
1. Put Teflon tape on threads of A-294 3/8" barb to MIP Adapter and screw into side of Moroso tank.
2. Install new PCV valve into Help! rubber grommet. Install rubber grommet with PCV valve onto top of oil catch can.
3. Locate a suitable location in the engine compartment for the mounting of the oil catch can.
4a. Remove the hose from the original PCV valve barb. Install the barb splicer (A-290) into end of the hose and securing it with a hose clamp. Install one end of the high-pressure hose onto the other end of the barb splicer (A-290). Secure it with a hose clamp.
4b. (for LS or B20/VTEC) Attach one of the high-pressure tubings to the intake manifold.
*GSR manifold
Attach the other hose to the PCV nipple mod behind the block. *note* The oil cooler joint is slighter bigger than 3/8". Simply get a bigger hose (about 3 inches) with a 1/2" ID (inside diameter) with a 3/8" OD (outside diameter). Use the barbed splicer and clamp both ends securely.
*B20 block
5. Determine the length of hose that is needed to the new PCV valve on top of the oil catch can. Cut hose the to length and install the hose onto the new PCV valve on the oil catch can. Secure it with hose clamp.
6. Install one end of the high-pressure hose onto the other end of the original PCV valve barb. Secure it with hose clamp.
7. Determine length of hose needed to install the hose onto the Watts 3/8" barb to MIP adapter (A-294) on the oil catch can. Cut the hose to length. Install onto barb on oil catch can, secure with a hose clamp.
8. Make sure that the hoses are not touching any sharp ends or anything that's going to be hot once the engine is running.
9. Make sure that everthing is installed tigthly to ensure that you don't run into any vacuum leaks. If you start the engine and the rpms go to 1500 or 2000, then double check your lines for leaks. Other than that you're all set to go.
The new catch can set-up should look something like this.
*If, for any reason, I left anything out or some info gets confusing please let me know. Or if any of you have any more additional info, please feel free to PM or e-mail me.
Mods: AEM Intake & Cam Sprockets , RC Throttle Body, Greddy SS Header , RSR Exhaust , Carsound Cat , ACT Clutch & Fly, NGK 8mm Blue Wires, JDM Type-S Valve Cover , Koni Yellow Shocks , RSR Down Springs, Nuespeed Short Shift Adapter, CF Dashkit, CF
Great post, thanks randyman.
__________________ B.I.B.L.E (Basic Instructions Before Leaving Earth)
"IT WAS TAKEN FROM ME AND NOW MY SOUL HAS GONE AND THE SHELL IS DEAD. LONG LIVE THE CREATION I STILL HAVE IN MY THOUGHTS"
I wrote a post on it in the supercharger forum a couple of months ago, all I did was run a clear hard plastic fuel filter in line with the pcv return hose after the purge valve T, thus it will filter crankcase and fuel vapor before it hits the intake manifold. (If you are turbo this will not work, Positive pressure will slam the pcv shut thus more blowby, you would have to route this set up upstream of the turbine to allow for proper crankcase ventilation)...I have set this system up and I change the filter every oil change, it will accumulate a slight amount of oil...cspina
Mods: b20/vtec with jdm ITR conversion (mugen fascia)
sounds like a decent "filtration" system. i like the catch can feature since it catches all that gross stuff in the can. the fuel filter might not be able to filter all that gross stuff and end up getting the hoses all clogged up. i'd check the fuel filter at least once a weak just to check it's condition.
Mods: b20/vtec with jdm ITR conversion (mugen fascia)
Re: randyman, dont wanna sound like a noob but...
Quote:
Originally posted by XLR8 GS-R What exactly is the point of a oil catch can? Why have one? What purpose does it serve?
Thanks
you put a baffled oil catch can just before the PCV valve to intercept the oil before the crank vapors rejoin and connect into the IM and then into the combustion chamber. this reduces the oil vapor content in the crank vapors circulating back through the IM into the combustion chamber. This greatly reduces the risk of detonation.
so the benefit is that you restrict your engine to any risk of detonation, especially if you're pushing some decent power either from high compression for all motor setups or boosted applications. this gives u an added margin of safety.
also, since ur facilitating better crankcase ventialtion, the rings seal better yielding more compression or cylinder pressure -- especially important for freshly built engines going thru the "break-in" period.
for ls/vtecs and/or b20/vtecs, u will need to fabricate a PCV system. older modeled integras have an oil baffle can on the back of the block for the pcv system. the newer (OBD 2) tegs don't have this "can" -- especially the ls engines, and b20b or b20z engines. the system on these models is plumbed on the valve cover itself.
if u swap a vtec head on a these blocks, u will completely eliminate the PCV system since there is no where to plumb the pcv valve on the vtec head, and there is none on the back of the block. this is where the Oil catch can comes into play. this provides better ventilation for the engine and discourages detonation -- which robs power and in some cases, engine failure.
I have a 97 lude with a pcv on the valve cover. I assume that I could still use a catch can?
Does the oil catch can come with 1 inlet and 1 outlet? If so, should I attach the hose from the pcv to the catch can and a hose from the catch can to my IM?
Aint there a way to prevent any of this pcv air from going into my IM???
Mods: b20/vtec with jdm ITR conversion (mugen fascia)
Quote:
Originally posted by Sunny Lude I have a 97 lude with a pcv on the valve cover. I assume that I could still use a catch can?
Does the oil catch can come with 1 inlet and 1 outlet? If so, should I attach the hose from the pcv to the catch can and a hose from the catch can to my IM?
Aint there a way to prevent any of this pcv air from going into my IM???
yes, u can use a catch can for ur lude. like u said, just attach the hose from the pcv to the can and another hose that goes to the other inlet/outlet to the IM.
it's not the "air" from the PCV that u want to filter out, it's the gunk that goes with it. the catch can will do that job for u by collecting alll the gunk that might collect in ur IM.
Thanks for the explanation. Yet i am still wondering if there is a way to also prevent the (hot) "air" from going into the IM. I assume that a lot of the gunk will be dumped in your engine compartment if you disconnect the pcv hose. But after you install a catch can won't the air comming out of the catch can be clean enough to leave the hose disconnected from the IM? What are the disadvantages of letting this hose to the IM disconnected?
Also the SSR catch can in the link looks great. Is it as good as the moroso catch cans?
Mods: b20/vtec with jdm ITR conversion (mugen fascia)
Quote:
Originally posted by Sunny Lude Thanks for the explanation. Yet i am still wondering if there is a way to also prevent the (hot) "air" from going into the IM. I assume that a lot of the gunk will be dumped in your engine compartment if you disconnect the pcv hose. But after you install a catch can won't the air comming out of the catch can be clean enough to leave the hose disconnected from the IM? What are the disadvantages of letting this hose to the IM disconnected?
Also the SSR catch can in the link looks great. Is it as good as the moroso catch cans?
the only way to "minimize", not "prevent", hot air from entering the IM is by a cold-air induced system, water-cooled system (boosted applications), or an intercooled system (boosted applications).
DO NOT DISCONNECT the pcv tube. leave it as is, or re-route it by using the catch can. it's not only environmentally "unfriendly" (since all that gas and fumes will be expelled to the atmosphere), but it will also cause a vacuum problem for ur car. u'll have problems with sustaining proper idle with ur vehicle.
as for the catch can brand, any brand will do. a can is a can is a can. as long as it is baffled and has an inlet and an outlet, then ur going to be fine. it just depends on how aesthetically driven u are as far as picking the catch can of ur choice.
Mods: AEM, Tenzo, cheap ass Tsudo exhaust, Koni Yellows, Eibach Pro Kit, SPC camber adj. ball joints, Prothane bushings,little interior things
Quote:
Originally posted by Sunny Lude What are the disadvantages of letting this hose to the IM disconnected?
The hose is connected to the intake to provide Positive Crankcase Ventilation using the vacuum to pull the gases from the crankcase. I guess you would be left with only the crankcase turbulence trying to pump out the blow-by? Not good.
DIY Oil Catch Can -- How to
randyman, dont wanna sound like a noob but...
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Linear Mode
