ok so maybe im just picky about this but when i rev my engine like just tap it you know round 2000rpm it sounds like a tick tick tick noise and my friend said that its the fuel injectors and all hondas sound like that... but is there anything to kill that noise i just think it would make the engine sound nice without that noise
ls motors do tend to click.. well i don't know if others do too, but my ls clicked like that & i had a mechanic friend tell me the same.. injectors & they all do it. i dunno, maybe aftermarket injectors, but if you're buying something like that just for the sound....
You have any more info on that? My teg sure doesn't make any clicking sounds lol, but if you find a solid reason behind that sound, it was be nice to have in the back of my head so I don't freak out if I hear it.
i also heard someone say that it could be from lifters in the engine if someone didnt change the oil for awhile in the past but yea it bugs me because i think maybe something is wrong with i want it to sound nice and i was thinking if they had aftermarket fuel injectors that were silent because im buying new fuel injectors anyway when i get my turbo... p.s. been researching a lot about turbo
Do you have a stock valvetrain? I sure have valvetrain "clack" (or ticking) constantly whcih I hear easily at idle because my springs are so stiff. So it might be valvetrain related.
i also heard someone say that it could be from lifters in the engine if someone didnt change the oil for awhile in the past but yea it bugs me because i think maybe something is wrong with i want it to sound nice and i was thinking if they had aftermarket fuel injectors that were silent because im buying new fuel injectors anyway when i get my turbo... p.s. been researching a lot about turbo
I've installed many different aftermarket injectors on B Series motors (RC is the most popular) and they do not click loud at all. You should also check into your valve adjustments. It can be a valvetrain problem that might be bad
Mods: cold air intake, JDM 4 into 1 Header, Test pipe, Hand port and polish head and throttle body, ARP head bolts, Short throw shifter, Type R shift knob, Removed radio antenna, GSR fat 5 wheels, Cooper 205/50/15 Directionals, Custom valve cover, lots of weight reduction (rear seat, sound deadening tar, spare tire, etc)
it's going to be your valve lash.... you have to adjust them ever so often on honda motors. My GSR use to do that same thing. It is fairly simple to do.
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IF YOUR NOT LIVING LIFE ON THE EDGE, YOUR TAKING UP TOO MUCH SPACE!!!
ok ok so sounds like valves from alot of you and probably fuel injectors also so well i just started at vw audi dealership today and i get free work on my car with my friend who has a bay to himself there so ill have that check out thanks guys! good info
Yeah, someone told me that fuel injectors will cause that, but it seems like BS cause I think it's valve lash. But that isnt a super serious problem, and can be fixed rather easily as GSRXCOLT said. There was a good article on Team Integra on how to correct it, but I cant seem to find it right now, but I am sure if you looked harder than me you'd find something. I am pretty sure anyone with basic mechanical knwolage can do it, you just need patience.
Mods: cold air intake, JDM 4 into 1 Header, Test pipe, Hand port and polish head and throttle body, ARP head bolts, Short throw shifter, Type R shift knob, Removed radio antenna, GSR fat 5 wheels, Cooper 205/50/15 Directionals, Custom valve cover, lots of weight reduction (rear seat, sound deadening tar, spare tire, etc)
I dont remember the exact feeler gauges that you will need, but all that you have to do is remove the valve cover and and use a wrench to back off the the nut that locks your valve adjustment screw. While holding that nut w/ the wrench use a screw driver to make the actual adjustment and check it w/ an angled feeler gauge. I belive on honda's that it's a 12mm nut and a flat head screw.
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IF YOUR NOT LIVING LIFE ON THE EDGE, YOUR TAKING UP TOO MUCH SPACE!!!
I dont remember the exact feeler gauges that you will need, but all that you have to do is remove the valve cover and and use a wrench to back off the the nut that locks your valve adjustment screw. While holding that nut w/ the wrench use a screw driver to make the actual adjustment and check it w/ an angled feeler gauge. I belive on honda's that it's a 12mm nut and a flat head screw.
Thats the way to do it! Specs can be found underneath your hood (if its still oem) Look for a sticker and it will tell you a number with a +/-.
B-series valvetrains are just loud. Unless the noise has increased, I wouldn't worry too much about it. You should hear mine with the Crower cams. *clack clack clack* A coworker saw me drive by and, without knowing I had aftermarket cams, asked me what all the valve noise was from hehe
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
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)MODS: 60mm JDM Tanebe Medalion Exaust, Spoon Sports testpipe, Magnacore 7.5mm Ignition wires, Hankook Ventus tires, ITR Header, AEM Cold Air Intake, Amber Headlight tint, Prelude sunroof visor, ITR Spoiler, ITR shift knob, H&R Sport springs, Koni Yellow adjustable shocks, Stoptech Stainless steel lines, Brembo pads, Energy suspension poly bushing kit
Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
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