Mods: AEM CAI, Kakimoto R cat back exhuast, K2 HID lights, System, Konig Theory, H&R sport springs, Koni Yellow's, Polyurethane Bushings, Skunk 2 Camber kit
Front end viberations
Lately, I've been noticing that my car viberates when doing normal acceleration until 3500 to 4100 rpms. I just recently bought new tires for my stock gsr rimmies which were properly balanced, I have a wheel alignment too. It shakes the car a bit then goes away after 4100 rpms. What the hell is broken. Also, its been hard to keep my car straight on the highway. for instance, I could be driving straight then the car wants to move slightly to the left then goes back to straight. Is that my ball joints. My car was dropped recently less than 6 months ago and its a 2000 GSR with 52,000 miles on it. whats up with that sh*t. Can anyone help? thanks
if you hit the gas and the car vibrates then its your axle bacause its putting all the power to that one axle. Usually that hapens with reman axles because the shaft is slightly bent.
Lately, I've been noticing that my car viberates when doing normal acceleration until 3500 to 4100 rpms. I just recently bought new tires for my stock gsr rimmies which were properly balanced, I have a wheel alignment too. It shakes the car a bit then goes away after 4100 rpms. What the hell is broken. Also, its been hard to keep my car straight on the highway. for instance, I could be driving straight then the car wants to move slightly to the left then goes back to straight. Is that my ball joints. My car was dropped recently less than 6 months ago and its a 2000 GSR with 52,000 miles on it. whats up with that sh*t. Can anyone help? thanks
Sounds like you should at least take a look at your lower ball joints.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
Lately, I've been noticing that my car viberates when doing normal acceleration until 3500 to 4100 rpms. I just recently bought new tires for my stock gsr rimmies which were properly balanced, I have a wheel alignment too. It shakes the car a bit then goes away after 4100 rpms. What the hell is broken. Also, its been hard to keep my car straight on the highway. for instance, I could be driving straight then the car wants to move slightly to the left then goes back to straight. Is that my ball joints. My car was dropped recently less than 6 months ago and its a 2000 GSR with 52,000 miles on it. whats up with that sh*t. Can anyone help? thanks
And BTW, an alignment doesn't mean you have good camber/toe. Did you invest in a camber kit or what? If not, you should.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
Lately, I've been noticing that my car viberates when doing normal acceleration until 3500 to 4100 rpms. I just recently bought new tires for my stock gsr rimmies which were properly balanced, I have a wheel alignment too. It shakes the car a bit then goes away after 4100 rpms. What the hell is broken. Also, its been hard to keep my car straight on the highway. for instance, I could be driving straight then the car wants to move slightly to the left then goes back to straight. Is that my ball joints. My car was dropped recently less than 6 months ago and its a 2000 GSR with 52,000 miles on it. whats up with that sh*t. Can anyone help? thanks
well you are making the problem sound engine speed related and not car speed related. If it actually vibrating or you hear a rattle? If you are hearing a rattle related to engine speed my guess would be one of your heat shields is rattling which is a common problem. Solution is to remove the heatshield.
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/meconfu5ed
Mods: AEM CAI, Kakimoto R cat back exhuast, K2 HID lights, System, Konig Theory, H&R sport springs, Koni Yellow's, Polyurethane Bushings, Skunk 2 Camber kit
All right, my heat shield was removed two years ago when I put on my exhaust. Second, the car moving in the lane happens from speeds 65- 90. after that speed i don't really notice since all my concerns are focused avoiding the state troopers. the viberation occurs when i'm starting from a stand still up to 4grand. and only really happens or is noticable in either 1st or 2nd gear.
How can I tell which axle is giving me the problems, and how to know if my ball joints are worn out? Are axles under Acura warrenty or I will have to pay out the ass for new one's? I don't have a camber kit, but I guess I should start looking for one. Thanks for that info.
I just looked at your profile to see your mods. You might have a very hard time getting Acura to warranty any part of your suspension/axles with your springs and shocks. I also saw you have Polyurethane bushings with is no doubt going to cause your car to ride ruffer. For giggles why don't you try to swap the rear wheels to the front and see what happens? it might be a cheap solution to your problem.
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check out my cars
http://www.cardomain.com/id/meconfu5ed
All right, my heat shield was removed two years ago when I put on my exhaust. Second, the car moving in the lane happens from speeds 65- 90. after that speed i don't really notice since all my concerns are focused avoiding the state troopers. the viberation occurs when i'm starting from a stand still up to 4grand. and only really happens or is noticable in either 1st or 2nd gear.
How can I tell which axle is giving me the problems, and how to know if my ball joints are worn out? Are axles under Acura warrenty or I will have to pay out the ass for new one's? I don't have a camber kit, but I guess I should start looking for one. Thanks for that info.
Mods: Flowmaster exhaust, AEM cold air intake, flashed ECU for 8200 RPM shifts
Does it do it in different gears from those RPM's? or is it just 1st gear? if it only does it in first gear, its suspension related, if it does it in every gear, its engine related. Check the motor mounts first of all, I had horrible vibrations during low RPM's and after I got a new drivers side motor mount, that all went away.
Does it do it in different gears from those RPM's? or is it just 1st gear? if it only does it in first gear, its suspension related, if it does it in every gear, its engine related. Check the motor mounts first of all, I had horrible vibrations during low RPM's and after I got a new drivers side motor mount, that all went away.
Good call. Motor mounts go out all the time in Hondas. Might me a good thing to check on.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
Mods: AEM CAI, Kakimoto R cat back exhuast, K2 HID lights, System, Konig Theory, H&R sport springs, Koni Yellow's, Polyurethane Bushings, Skunk 2 Camber kit
Thanks for all the idea's. I haven't installed them yet since at the time when i Lowered my car it was november and it was starting to get cold. i'll try to switch the tires this weekend. Good call on the motor mounts didnt' think to check that. will do though.
Like I said it only happens when i'm at a stand still or rollin under20 mps and starting off in first gear and second gear under normal acceleration, not flooring it to 8,000. There is no noise at all or rattles. I feel it in the gas peddle and in my seat. I'll try to drive it some more to pin point additional parts. I don't like driving my car too much. I'm just pissed my teg is actin like this.
i had the same problem with my 2nd gen teg. the car was shaking violently all over the highway when i was going 60-80. the problem was my upper control arms. like someone said.. ball joints. they were shot. once hit form the ball joint remover and there it fell out.. sorry if it's no help. just an idea.
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