For what purpose?
The Walbro 255lph seems to be fine for most applications, and is usually overkill. Guys run it on boost builds that require 750 and 1000cc injectors. But it's the most common one, and can be found anywhere; you won't have to worry about it not being enough fuel flow.
Yeah, what's your setup going to be? The Walbro 190lph should actually be more than enough.
__________________
'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
im runnin all motor but aem fuel rail works fine for me and any adjustable regulator will work fine... prolly need to get a wide band o2 and an air fuel ratio meter so you know when its dialed in corse when getting it tuned they will also meter the fuel dilivery along with the added air/boost id just check out ur local shops to see if they have any rails or regulators around to help you with what specs and depending on how your motor is set up will determin fuel dilivery along with the boost you are adding
If he's boosting, and wants to run a Fuel Regulator along with his tuning software, he'll need to find an adjustable FPR for boosting...aka FMU. Stock fuel rail should be fine for his goals (if his 450cc Injectors mean that he's just keeping the bottom end stock).
What kind of all motor application do you have?? Fuel rail, 255lph pump, and 450cc injectors for all motor seems kinda crazy lol....even for a 200whp build. You have some kind of 300whp K-series?
lol yea i get that alot but no right now im running jdm gsr with aebs sleeves je 12:1 pistons egle rods greddy main and rod bearings stage 2 toda cams toda titanium valve springs and retainers cam and vavles 52mm over sized jet chiped ecu but still fixin to change to a boosted k24 soon
lol yea i get that alot but no right now im running jdm gsr with aebs sleeves je 12:1 pistons egle rods greddy main and rod bearings stage 2 toda cams toda titanium valve springs and retainers cam and vavles 52mm over sized jet chiped ecu but still fixin to change to a boosted k24 soon
Woooo, all motor monster. That setup should be good for like 225+?
Anywho, OP, just get your turbo stuff together and have a chat with your tuner. You can still get a very nice tune running your stock Fuel Pressure Reg. An FMU can make tuning easier if your tuner knows how to use it properly in conjuction with Hondata/Crome/Uberdata
money shot 237hp in shop now getting re tuned t1 tuned
but yea stock internals on boost i like hondata s200 or s300 with boost option has always been great for me average tune is pretty reasonable just be sure whoever does your tuning knows what they are doing
dunno if anyone has asked but what kind of power are u looking for how much boost are u goin to be pushin?
I want to get around 220 230whp. I dont kno how much psi my stock internals will take in b18b1? I was thinking 8-10. i was going to send my ecu to phearable.net, but i dont kno if i have to buy an ecu, like hondata or Uberdata?
As a general rule (meaning a happy, healthy motor), the B18B can hold 300whp on stock internals on a near perfect tune. So depending on the size of the turbo you get, anywhere from 8-12psi should get you to 300whp. My buddy in his D16Y8 only needed 7psi on a T3/T4 60 trim to get into the 230s.
You have a 94, so you already have an OBDI ECU. You can send it Phearable.net so they can chip/socket it, and give you a general basemap tune so you can "safely" drive it from the shop to the tuner (And by "safely," I mean easy on the throttle).
As for tuning software/hardware, talk to your tuner to see what programs (such as Hondata/Uberdata/Crome) he uses to tune.
Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Linear Mode
