Mods: Weapon R Dragon Intake, Ebay Header, Greedy cat., Greddy Evo2 Catback, JDM e-brake cover remover, Apline Type-S interior Speakers, H&R Sport Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts, Password:JDM LCA, B&M Short Shifter, Polyurethane Shifter Stabilizer
Which header? 4-2-1 or 4-1?
Well, the header i was going to get got damaged in shipping. Yeah, FedEX sucks! So i still want to get a header, but have been reading a lot about them now that I am getting one. Which would you get, a 4-1 or a 4-2-1 header, both by DC Sports? Please explain your decision.
PS: I am only asking about these two headers.... i know there are better ones out there.
The question is, where do you want your powerband? I would say that with a CAI (midrange-focused) you should get a 4-2-1, but if you're planning on getting big cams later then I'd go 4-1.
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Mods: Weapon R Dragon Intake, Ebay Header, Greedy cat., Greddy Evo2 Catback, JDM e-brake cover remover, Apline Type-S interior Speakers, H&R Sport Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts, Password:JDM LCA, B&M Short Shifter, Polyurethane Shifter Stabilizer
Quote:
Originally Posted by White98LS
The question is, where do you want your powerband? I would say that with a CAI (midrange-focused) you should get a 4-2-1, but if you're planning on getting big cams later then I'd go 4-1.
That was going to be the next thing i save up for is cams, gears, and valve train components.
u should get 4-1 if u're puttin cams, camshaft and all of that in ur motor. i have 4-2-1 header up for sale and it's only been installed once on the Ek hatchback w/ gsr motor swap and turn out that it was 2 inches shorter than wat he needed. In other words, it never been used. I never install it on my car cuz i'm goin turbo... just dont want to waste my money on buyin the 2.25" exhaust. i'll need turbo manifold. if u like, 200 shipped to ur house .. where on ebay, they're sellin 250 shipped with insurance. if u're not interesting. i'm okay with it. i am not plannin to get a turbo til next year so i'll hold onto that offer til i get my turbo.
It's not powder-coated, but rather ceramic-coated. The ceramic header has a heat-trapping ceramic coating over mild steel construction. The stainless steel header is uncoated stainless steel, which is more resistant to rust. The ceramic header is nice because it keeps more heat out of the engine bay, but that trapped heat weakens the metal (esp. at the welds), which is why you see so many DC ceramic headers cracking after 2, 3, 4 years.
I spent the extra ~$90 went with a stainless DC because I wanted my header to last, but if you're only going to keep the car for a couple years then the ceramic might be the way to go. Of course not every ceramic DC is going to crack within a certain timeframe, but it is a common trend and just a fact of life - the same thing happens when you put insulating header wrap on a stainless header. The brand doesn't matter either - DC's quality is very good. Just the qualities of the metals.
__________________
'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
I noticed that pple say 4-1 for F/I or NOS, and 4-2-1 for lesser applications.. And then the comment that 4-2-1 is for low to mid ranges, and 4-1 is for mid to high.. Is the difference in the performance of these two header setups their restrictions????