FS: I totaled my 95 GSR and bought it back. Everything is legit with papers and pics of the process from removal of the engine to wrecked car. I have since cut the frame away from the engine to and fired it up to make sure it still runs. It sounds sweet!! I have decided to sell the engine and part the car out. My career field calls for me to drive a bigger vehicle now.
>’95 B18C1 complete swap with `98 US ITR Tranny
>21,309 miles
>Skunk2 Stage 2 cams with gears
>Portflow valvetrain and Titanium retainers
>Port and polished head (disassembled/hot tanked/inspected, 3 angle valve job, polished chambers, surfaced deck (-.004"), new valve seals)
>New ARP head studs and new OEM 3 layer head gasket
>Skunk2 IM port matched to the head and TB(runners polished half way up to the plenum)
>Hondata IM gasket
>STR 68mm TB
>DSM 450cc injectors with resistor pack
>Cold Air Intake
>Jet coated JDM ITR 4-1 header w/ 2.5" collector (looks sick for show!)
>2.5" Test pipe
>2.5" Exhaust for DC2 or EG
>Shift linkage
>Both axels and intermediate shafts
>PS pump
>AC pump
>All motor mounts with inserts
>Complete engine wire harness w/ resistor pack plugged into it for the injectors
>Balanced OEM CTR pistons (.25mm overbore) w/OEM rings and CTR wrist pins
>GSR block original sleeves 81.25mm bore honed and cross hatched for CTR pistons
> All 4 cylinders make 285psi of pressure!
>Balanced GSR rods
>Balanced and micro polished GSR crank
>Bottom end was high speed balanced to the clutch and flywheel at 10,000rpm! Runs smooth!
>New OEM GSR water pump
>New OEM GSR timing belt
>New OEM GSR oil pump with new pump gaskets
>All new Honda bearings
>All new seals on the block (every seal that's included in a OEM Honda seal kit)
>Hondata 3b and P28 ecu with program I used to gain my numbers (comes with boost option, rev limter, shift light, 2 Step launch control, and control button to modify VTEC engagement point, launch rpm, and rev limiter)
>Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch
>Clutch Masters 8lb flywheel
>Also included: Traction bars. They fit on my Teg so naturally they'll fit an EG.
>Also... I'll include a CD-R with a copy of the program used to achieve the numbers for this engine!
>Also... Walbro 255lph fuel pump
This engine was properly assembled per OEM Honda specs. I did an 1800 mile engine break in. VTEC was always set at 8k using the Hondata. I drove easy for 0-500 miles with the revs under 4k. From 501-1000 I kept the rev limiter set at 5k, and from 1001 – 1500 miles I set the rev limiter at 6500rpm. From 1501 – 1800 I set the rev limit at 7700rpm and VTEC was still at 8k. At every mileage increment I would drive conservatively and get close to the rev limit about once every 3 days of driving. I felt that with Honda pistons it was important to have a long slow break in to get excellent ring seal and good longevity.
This engine dyno’d at 200.45whp at 8300 and 133.23lb/ft of torque. Rev limit is set at 9k. I think this engine could have a few more whp pulled out of it, but I didn’t have the money to pay for dyno time to fool with the cam gears.
This engine will kill a ITR and will run high 13s in your fully loaded Teg/Civic or will run mid-low 13s in a hatch. I know it'll hit 12s in a hatch with slicks.
Price: $3500 Just remember that an ITR complete swap will cost you about $4500 and you can't be guaranteed on the mileage. I can!
Contact info: Paul and PM me to contact me or (541) 915-7723.
I'm in the Portland, OR area 97062.
Pics:
Before the wreck...

Dyno chart...

Odometer...
After the wreck...
After the wreck...
VIN...
