This has been covered before but, here we go again, soon this will be a closed topic.
'94-'00 ECU was upgraded without an access window or LED. Replacing the LED though is a flashing check engine light. All that you need now is to pull the trouble codes, and you can do it with a jumper wire.
Locate the factory diagnostic plug next to the ECU for the Integra and Civic. There is a two-pin connector that contains a brown and black wire. Jump these two wires together and turn your key to the ON position. Here is where it gets tricky. Deciphering the code requires reading the light sequences. When the car is in the ON position, the check engine light emits two different flashes; a long extended flash means 10, and a rapid flash means 1. So, one long flash, another long flash, followed by 3 quick flash stands for...................23! Equipped with that information, here are the codes for the '92-'00 Honda and '94-'00 Acura.
0 ECU
1 Oxygen Content
3 Map Sensor
4 Crank Angle Sensor
5 Map Sensor
6 Coolent Temperature
7 Throttle Angle
8 TDC Position
9 No 1 Cylinder Position
10 Intake Air Temperature
63 Intake Air Temperature
12 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
13 Atmosphere Pressure
14 Electronic Air Control
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor
20 Electronic Load Detector
21 VTEC Solenoid Valve (1.8L GSR)
22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch (1.8L GSR)
23 Knock Sensor
30 TCM Signal A
31 TCM Signal B
41 O-2 Sensor Heater
43 Fuel Supply System
45 System Too Rich or Too Lean
48 Primary Heated O-2 Sensor
54 Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor
61 Primary O-2 Sensor Circuit
63 Secondary O-2 Sensor Circuit
67 Catalyst System
70 Automatic Transaxle
71-74 Random Misfire
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Circuit
92 Evaporative Emission Control System Insufficient
You know I jumped my Service Connector and my Check engine light went on, but the ABS light was the one that flashed the codes. Is this incorrect? The Check Engine Light was aluminated while the ABS light flashed back.
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98 Integra GSR
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MODS:
* Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
* Skunk2 cams (stage 2) (soon to be installed...)
* (Red) type R valve cover with moon cuts
* AEM Cold Air Intake
* Comptech Headers 4-2-1
* Random Tech. High flow Cat.
* Greddy Exhaust (Evo)
* H&R full coilover and shock setup
* Ignalls Front Camber kit & Specialty Products rear kit
* Eagle 160 Series 17" Rims
* Kumho Ecsta Supra Tires
* Mesh Bumper Grill
* Limo Tint w/black vinyl on the Dot matrix
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I checked for the codes but it was a little hard to discern long from short. I'd like to check/verify from a few things I've done 'wrong' with my car.
I think I have a code 45- System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems or 63 - Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response.
About a week ago, my key lock for my gas cap was stuck so I never sealed it back tight (locked it). I'm thinking air, could this cause a problem? Also the last oil change I had after thanksgiving I think I put close to 5 qts in my LS and reading the manual it said about 3.8-4. I used 10w30 castrol synthetic. Also on a cold start my idle is at about 1500 instead of it being normally around 8-900rpms, but I didn't notice that until the ECU came on. Everything runs fine.... but I do notice my RPMs are a little higher than normal when cruising. I'm right at 3000 going 60, and I'd hit that going about 68.
My father suggested I put some boost & cleaner in it and go blow it out on the highway with a higher octance gas( I use 87). Might just need a tune-up.
Uhhh 106K, changed the spark plugs & wires around 90k.
When its colder your engine should idle higher around 1400-1500rpm on a cold start which is totally normal. if the engine is fluctuating between 1500-2000rpm and it sounds "camed out" I'd check for a vacuum leak first and then check the idle air control valve. However I wouldn't try to burn 93 octane or any higher octane than what your running because it is harder to combust and will just leave more carbon deposits in your engine since your engine lacks the compression or any other reason to run a higher octane.
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93 Si - 13.7@101 all motor/street tires stock head bishes...
I like how u dogged my engine...
Thanks 4 the reply... didn't kno since this is my 1st winter with it.. nvr had an RPM gauge b4... no idle problems.. But I had to add more coolant last week too after I did during thanksgivin but I don't see any leaks.
I'm going to drop it off and have everything flushed out and have'em dbl check the code.
The ecu flashes all looked the same after the 1st flash... was difficult for me to tell. My 1st impulse was an 18 but didn't see that n the code.
hit a cracoon on sat night and i happen to creak the welds on the exhaust header i had them re-welded and now when i start the car it sounds like its is miss firing.. but all cyclinders are firing but once i try to drive it.. it only gets to 4000 rmp's and then acts like its hitting the rev limiter i donno what to do and now the check engien light is on!!!!
what are the 2 wires do i jump on the ECU to do a scan so i know what trouble code it has set off
thanks
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1996 Civic LX (yes i drive a 4 door)
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