Alright heres the deal. Basically since the first time ive ever set my eyes on an integra ive wanted one. Well a friend of mine is selling his and im seriously considering buying it but i need some insight from owners of integra's and what not. The car is a 94 GSR with a rebuilt B18c engine *****, with ***** controller, with a type R tranny, roughly 90k on engine, 146k on body, cf hood, wheels and tires, exahust, headers, intake, lowering springs, solid motor mounts, Koyo aluminum racing radiator, autometer gauges, air/fuel mixture, water temp, volts meter and oil pressure, H-brace to reduce wheel flex, good tread on tires and he is only asking 5,500 what do you guys think and what would you guys do, it dosnt have any internal work done which is good because i wanted to do all that myself anyways but i guess im just asking for opinions, im no car genius but im not a complete idiot either. Thanks for the help everybody
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by viet_83
test drive it. do the compression and leak down test.
x2.
That tranny is worth a 1/4 the price of the whole car, so thats not a bad deal. Run a carfax, make sure the title is clean. Other than that, id pick it up.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
Mods: JDM b18c R S80 tranny w/lsd, obd2 to obd1 conversion, custom maped p28 ecu, short ram intake, hks super mega flow, MSD SCI ignition, Msd blaster coil, msd pro cap, msd wires, no cat, greddy evo catback, Griffin aluminum radiator, H&R race springs,Power Slot Rotors, oem jdm type r shift linkage w/ oem jdm type r short shifter, alarm+ lojack
really is a good deal, especialy for a car you always wanted
Not sure what the compression leak down test is, someone care to explain?
But I say test-drive it , and if the car rides well get it. It mostly depends on what you plan to do with the car. If your pleased with the engine and would like to do cosmetic stuff it sounds like the car would suite you.
Mods: aem short ram, thermal r&d stainless exhaust (free), nothing else for now...I'M BROKE!!
sounds like a good buy.
it's probably pretty well taken care of if the prev. owner modded it that much. but it's always good to take precautions. when i bought my car the prev. owner said it had a brand new oem exhaust and 2 weeks later the cat broke clean off....
__________________
'94 civic dx **stock d15** with aem intake and thermal r&d stainless exhaust....crazy fast yo
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoTraction18
sounds like a good buy.
it's probably pretty well taken care of if the prev. owner modded it that much. but it's always good to take precautions. when i bought my car the prev. owner said it had a brand new oem exhaust and 2 weeks later the cat broke clean off....
thats true but at the same point, there is a reason why he modded it that much-to beable to push it harder...do what everyone else says-compression, leakdown, testdrive ect. a compression test...you hook up a gauge (compression check tool) to one of spark plug holes (spark plug removed of course) unplugall the other spark plug wires and cranks the car for 5-10 sec. the gauge will show a number that shows how much pressure was attained by the cylinder. this number should be somewhere between optimal (210 on a gsr) and horrible (i think its like 160 ) the higher the better. if its too low, it means that one or more of many things (rings, valves, gasket, ect.) is leaking air, and power is being compromised. test all four cylinders and there should be no more than a 10% difference between the four.
a leakdown test is basically a more in depth compression test that is usaully done when there are low compression numbers. it determines which is leaking and by how bad.
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
yeah do what they say. except if it has a clean title. just cause a car has been salvaged doesn't mean it's bad. if it IS salvaged, ask them where it was hit and such. IFFFF the front was damaged REAL bad, then dont get it. if it was the back or something it'd be ok. not ALL salvaged cars aren't worth buying. just gotta look into it. i'd buy for 5500 tho :w00t
Thanks everyone im in the process of selling my truck in order to buy the car. So hopefuly i can have that happen soon because other people are looking at the car also, so i will keep you guys posted on my status and situation. Thanks again for all your help and insight
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) the higher the better. if its too low, it means that one or more of many things (rings, valves, gasket, ect.) is leaking air, and power is being compromised. test all four cylinders and there should be no more than a 10% difference between the four.
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