he's talking about doing the loopback for the rack, so its not as hard to turn .
i drained my rack and ripped everything out. i tried to plug it with shit, but kept blowing plugs out so i said fggit and drained it
__________________ FORMERLY ITR206
Life begins at 2bar. . . . . .
07 Solar Orange 350Z 91 Supra Turbo Targa-
1JZGTE 508WHP and 501tq SOLD 06 Pathfinder
Mods: Flowmaster exhaust, AEM cold air intake, flashed ECU for 8200 RPM shifts
You have to pull off the hoses first, crank it back and forth several times with the motor running and the belt still hooked up. Will drain out all the fluid pretty quickly as the pump is still active. Then just take off the belt, pull the pump, and your done.
Have you driven a car without power steering yet? If not, I suggest you try before you remove yours. You might like it or you might not. I personally don't think it's worth the extra couple hp but I'm not a hardcore 1/4 mile person.
Mods: Flowmaster exhaust, AEM cold air intake, flashed ECU for 8200 RPM shifts
Ya and that is true. I had my power steering belt break once and had to drive without power steering for a few days. Im a big guy, 6'2" 220 lbs and can bench more than my own weight, and it was a struggle in parking lots and other places.
Originally posted by 9GSRtegra Ya and that is true. I had my power steering belt break once and had to drive without power steering for a few days. Im a big guy, 6'2" 220 lbs and can bench more than my own weight, and it was a struggle in parking lots and other places.
I hear you, I am 6' 3'' and would consider myself relatively strong, and it's still a huge pain in the ass to daily drive my non-P/S Teg. Yeah, for sure you should drive a non-P/S Integra first. My guess... you will keep your P/S.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
Originally posted by nov0798 the key here cgcivic is that if the car comes with a manual rack then so be it, but if you remove the hydraulic lines from a powered rack, you will destroy the rack. if you replace it with a manual rack then yes the ratio is diffrent and easier to turn. do it right and replace it with a manual rack.
just a question
why are you removing your ps. for the minimal if not minute gains in hp you will free up, it is not worth it.
Thanks ITR206 you know what I'm talking about...I love my setup personally..and I'm sure RTR fucked up their ITR's bad eh?...
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93 Si - 13.7@101 all motor/street tires stock head bishes...
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