Mods: Tanabe ss-pro suspension, Tanabe racing medallion exhaust
Looking for 250 hp...
I have a 95 gsr and I was initially going to go with the jackson racing charger and call it a day @ 200hp. However, the more I search around the sho, the more I want to go NA. I'd like the motor to rev up to 9500 rpm and I'm looking to get about 180 hp at the wheels, but still be able to strap a charger on (way down the line) to get close to the 250 hp range. What components do I need to change to get the motor to rev up to at least 9000, maybe even my goal of 9500? And to produce the power necessary at the wheels?
You should decide right now between NA and FI. The two paths are not compatible. If you build an aggressive NA motor, your compression ratio and cams will be very incompatible with FI. If you absolutely have to do both, keep your stock pistions and cams so you can put them back in when you bolt on the blower.
Originally posted by infamous187 here, try this...
GSR motor, bored out 84MM, ITR CAMS, Iceman Intake (or anything of your choice) , JDM 4-1 Headers, Gears, V-AFC
this set-up is dyno'd at 216 HP..all motor...
208HP at 7000 RPMs, Huge midrange power and torque..
11.96@113...
theres a lot of set-ups you find on the web. just pick which one would be most affordable for you
I would like proof of this... i am not busting your balls, but but with the mods listed, lots of people would be running 11's all day long. 11's in a N/A is a very tuff to do, even fully built but with basic bolt-ons, ITR cams, with just an increased bore, is not going to net you 86whp more then a stock gsr, even with the tuning of a vafc. I think there is more then meets the eye to this.
As for getting 225whp of N/A, that will cost you some money.
1-upgrade cams, skunk2 stage 2 or Toda spec c's
2-head work
3-cam gears
4-basic bolt-ons
5-11.3-12.0:1 pistons
6-increase bore to 84.5mm
7-Fully programble engine management sysytem Hondata, AEM EMS
8-bigger fuel pump
9-bigger injectors
This should get you to your goal or really close
Originally posted by TodaTeg I would like proof of this... i am not busting your balls, but but with the mods listed, lots of people would be running 11's all day long. 11's in a N/A is a very tuff to do, even fully built but with basic bolt-ons, ITR cams, with just an increased bore, is not going to net you 86whp more then a stock gsr, even with the tuning of a vafc. I think there is more then meets the eye to this.
As for getting 225whp of N/A, that will cost you some money.
1-upgrade cams, skunk2 stage 2 or Toda spec c's
2-head work
3-cam gears
4-basic bolt-ons
5-11.3-12.0:1 pistons
6-increase bore to 84.5mm
7-Fully programble engine management sysytem Hondata, AEM EMS
8-bigger fuel pump
9-bigger injectors
This should get you to your goal or really close
its cool, i guess it depends on what you drop the engine in (i.e hatch, crx, integra) and if its in a crx stripped, it would run. as for proof, here is the dyno of this set-up.
Originally posted by infamous187 its cool, i guess it depends on what you drop the engine in (i.e hatch, crx, integra) and if its in a crx stripped, it would run. as for proof, here is the dyno of this set-up.
1. GSR p/p head
2. ITR throttle body
3. Toda spec C's w/ cam gears
4. Toda dual valve springs
5. DC JDM 4-1 header
6. Any higher compression kit will work but Toda can give you what you need up to 12.6
7. Get a ITR crank or have yours balanced
8. Hondata, Motec...etc any high end brand ECU no chipped ecu poop
9. Toda Timing belt (doesnt give more power but a must have)
Add your basic bolt on's, flywheel, clutch, 270cc+ size injectors, larger fuel pump, and maybe an ITR tranny. This would be a very responsive motor and good for what you are trying to do. I dont know the exact power output of this setup but im sure it is close to what you want.
My opinion get some ITB's (individual throttle bodies) allows for more response from the motor and more control over tuning the car.
Damn, I wonder if that setup besides the JDM 4-1 header is smog legal in California. That seems so simple, I'm gonna rebuilding my GSR motor soon, I'm gonna do something like that. Damn how does it make that much power? Does boring the cylinders out that much affect reliability?
Mods: Tanabe ss-pro suspension, Tanabe racing medallion exhaust
Thanks alot guys, its really helpful. Now, running higher compression I don't have a problem with, but will my idle be up around 1500 rpm? I don't mind a higher idle, but I don't want it to go above say 1100, just because it is an occasionaly driven daily driver (not driven in rain or snow, and splits time with the hyabusa when its warm and sunny out). Keep the responses coming, this is one of the better threads that I have seen in a while.
Originally posted by losichu but will my idle be up around 1500 rpm? I don't mind a higher idle, but I don't want it to go above say 1100
Higher compression, in and of itself, will make your idle a bit raspier, but should not cause you any real problems. Most aggressive NA cars have a lumpy idle because of the radical cam profile. That is one of the cool things about VTEC- you can have a mild profile for idle/low end and still have big lift at high rpms.
Also, one thing I didn't see mentioned is the timing belt. IMHO, if you go to big cams and upgraded springs, you should replace or upgrade the timing belt, just as a matter of good sense.
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