the other day i got hydrolocked. right now im trying to get the water out. first i tried blowing the water out of the spark plug holes with a compressor. got most of it out. there was some water under the valve cover, i flushed that down to the oil pan by pouring oil in. now my question is with that little bit of water that is on top of the pistons. is there anyway to flush that away with oil? is the combustion chamber just air fuel mix? does the oil get squirted from underneath to help the piston rings slide across the cylinder? or if i pour oil down there is there a way for it to escape down into the oil pan? i'm sorry, but i'm grasping at straws here.
__________________
A Work of Art In Progress..... stay tuned!
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
1. Chances are good that the motor is toast. You probably bent a rod. Water doesnt compress as well as air.
2. If you got extremely lucky, and DIDNT bent anything, the easiest way to get the water out is to remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over. The pistons will push the water out the wholes (and shoot it in the air like a fountain, so Id do it outside, lol).
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirfallsalot243
1. Chances are good that the motor is toast. You probably bent a rod. Water doesnt compress as well as air.
2. If you got extremely lucky, and DIDNT bent anything, the easiest way to get the water out is to remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over. The pistons will push the water out the wholes (and shoot it in the air like a fountain, so Id do it outside, lol).
Best of luck.
GO KEN!
the way he stated about removing the plugs is correct. crank it until it stops shooting out, if there is any left after that, it will evaporate away when the engine starts
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
i got the water out that way, but there was still enough water in there to get my plugs wet. so i guess hopefully i got enough out at this time to start it. i guess i'll fill her up with oil, get everything back together, and see if i can get her to start.
__________________
A Work of Art In Progress..... stay tuned!
Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eppo
i got the water out that way, but there was still enough water in there to get my plugs wet. so i guess hopefully i got enough out at this time to start it. i guess i'll fill her up with oil, get everything back together, and see if i can get her to start.
If she starts, Id do a compression test right away. Of course the plugs would get wet... there was water in there silly! Replace them, replace the oil, and make sure the air filter is dry.
Integra Arsenal:
1991 LS Special Ed- Sold.
1997 GSR- 192whp 130wtq all motor. SOLD
1991 GS- automatic daily driver. FOR SALE. $1500 PM for details.
1998 Nissan 240SX SE New!
And a 2000 Suzuki SV650
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
just turning up options here, but you could use a heat gun into the valve cover hole to get some warm air in there to dry up the water. just make sure you dont melt the valve cover paint.
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
anyone think there is an attachment for a shop vac that i might be able to use to get in there? i'm probably going to take a ride to sears/home depot, and see what i can do.
__________________
A Work of Art In Progress..... stay tuned!
well with some duct tape and some plastic hose, i got in there and sucked the rest of the water out. and then she started. motor sounded good, but exaust sounded a bit wierd, and was blowing smoke. but who knows what was still sitting on top of my pistons. well, i did a compression test, and the results were:
188,190,182,196. looks good as far as i can tell. i wanted to do a leak down test also, but cant find anyone where i can get my hands on one. guy at a local shop said that he had 4 ppl come in that sucked up water, and 3 out of the 4 had no problems after they sucked the water out. said just to run the engine a bit to burn off whatever was in there. i still want to do a leak down to be sure. i'm going to do a tune up on her today too. if all is ok, i'm going to do my timing belt after i find out she is 100% otherwise that will be a waste.
__________________
A Work of Art In Progress..... stay tuned!
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
what color was the smoke? if it was white, it was either burning coolant or a little water that was left in the cylinders. black would be a rich fuel indication, and blue is burning oil.
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
it was white, its not smoking anymore. compression and lead down were both good, even had a chat with my mechanic, engine seems to be in good condition.
thank god
__________________
A Work of Art In Progress..... stay tuned!