Why does AEM offer only power steering and alternator pulleys in their kit and Unorthodox and OBX offer crank pulleys in theirs? I have read that honda crank pulleys shouldnt be changed because of the way they are balanced? Am I totally off here or is there something AEM knows that the others do not?
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"Build it right, and it will perform." -mks
Yeah you're right, aftermarket crank pulleys make the engine unreliable and could likely grenade the thing.... I've heard the only real good light crank pulley that's within affordable reach is the Civic Type R stock crank pulley. The other accessory pulleys really do little but decrease alternator function.
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Originally posted by White98LS Yeah you're right, aftermarket crank pulleys make the engine unreliable and could likely grenade the thing.... I've heard the only real good light crank pulley that's within affordable reach is the Civic Type R stock crank pulley. The other accessory pulleys really do little but decrease alternator function.
I don't understand why a lightened crank pulley would make an engine unreliable if it was balanced right. Can you explain and hopefully cite some sources who agree. It's just that I haven't heard this argument before.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
It was a long time ago that I researched it, but I think it was because the aftermarket ones were unbalanced, causing a lot of vibration and therefore wear on the engine, specifically at high rpm. I think this was the problem, and it was a big one. Don't know if any new manufacturers have come out with better ones since then (must have been two years ago when I read up about them).
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Originally posted by White98LS It was a long time ago that I researched it, but I think it was because the aftermarket ones were unbalanced, causing a lot of vibration and therefore wear on the engine, specifically at high rpm. I think this was the problem, and it was a big one. Don't know if any new manufacturers have come out with better ones since then (must have been two years ago when I read up about them).
Yea you are right, they are either unbalanced or are not balanced correctly. The pulleys are a waste of money, the only one worth getting is the CTR crank pulley, but dont worry bout replacing any of the accessory pulleys.
Originally posted by DaWickedOne Yea you are right, they are either unbalanced or are not balanced correctly. The pulleys are a waste of money, the only one worth getting is the CTR crank pulley, but dont worry bout replacing any of the accessory pulleys.
So you are saying that the Unorthodox Crank pulley isn't balanced? I am planning on getting the pulley because it helps to take a strain off the motor resulting in a small Hp gain, but also because I have DTR traction bars and on really hard, bouncy turns the radius rod on the drivers side barely hits the stock H22 crank pulley. The Unorthodox pulley is a little smaller in diameter so this problem would be solved. Do you have any evidence of this companies product failing or causing damage, I haven't seen any or I wouldn't still be interested?
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
The gains are very small, that money is much better spent elsewhere, unless you want engine bay bling.
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Originally posted by White98LS I was responding to the post above mine about the accessory pullies.
I know. I wasn't directing my comments toward you. You had already told me that you researched this topic a long time ago and couldn't find the links. Thanks for looking further.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
only the first link works. that doesnt really answer my question. all it does is support your information about changing the crank pulley. see now im getting different information. first im told not to mess with crank pulleys on hondas, then that i should not mess with the accessory pulleys. what we need here is the following
1) someone who has aem accessory pulleys only on their car
2) someone with just their crank pulleys changed to either civic type r or unorthodox
3) some dyno graphs would be nice
4) articles about these setups with (and this is critical) LONG TERM test results to wear on the engine.
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"Build it right, and it will perform." -mks
The links don't work because SHO is a peice and censors other forums. Which is too bad because they answer every one of your questions. Just replace the ***s with team - integra (without the space, GODDAMMIT that shit is stupid) in the 2nd and 3rd links and honda - tech in the last link. But basically, accessory pulleys add like 2whp, and crank pulleys make your bearings turn to shit in as little as 45k miles.
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'98 Integra LS - non-VTEC autocross / daily driver (aka Track-Tested / Mother Approved) Daily-driven 87 octane Porsche destroyer
Latest Auto-X: 5th overall in class (7th/12 Day 1, 2nd Day 2). 10th/92 overall Day 2.
Complete mod list and updated race results here: http://www.freewebs.com/white98ls - don't forget to sign the guestbook! Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
Originally posted by IcemanGSR only the first link works. that doesnt really answer my question. all it does is support your information about changing the crank pulley. see now im getting different information. first im told not to mess with crank pulleys on hondas, then that i should not mess with the accessory pulleys. what we need here is the following
1) someone who has aem accessory pulleys only on their car
2) someone with just their crank pulleys changed to either civic type r or unorthodox
3) some dyno graphs would be nice
4) articles about these setups with (and this is critical) LONG TERM test results to wear on the engine.
If you dont want to believe people who know what they are talking about then go ahead and waste $300 on pulleys you will see no gain from(the accessorys) and the crank pulley which will more than likely be detrimental to your engine.
Pulleys
Autocrossing for a day is the best $25 you can spend
