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Old 02-13-2006, 10:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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swap to gsr

hey again guys. my 94 ls engine has racked up 175000 miles and i want to go turbo on the car. alot of problems have came up, and everything is leaking into the wrong places. i have decided to swap my engine into a b18c1 gsr engine, and then go turbo. what are your opinions on this? i have no clue if any internal of my current engine is on the verge of breaking, so i dont want to risk it with a turbo. so far hmo.com has the best responses for good engines, can someone second that. i would like to try to swap the engine myself, (noob question) is there some site or book that can tell me how to do the swap? i dont want to pay someone close to a g to do something i have potential to do. thanks for any help you guys can provide
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project: prodigy aka "the shit" dubbed "rose"
car:1994 integra rs 4 door
Sir-G swap, hasport mounts, shifter bushings
150 Whp 116 Tq Mom's DD

projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more

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Old 02-14-2006, 10:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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http://helminc.com/ you can buy a helms manual from there. That will tell you how to pull your old motor. Then you just have to wire it up for vtec and switch out the ECU.
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why not just rebuild your engine and turbo it? Have you considered that? If you have, the B18C1 engine is a very strong engine to start a project from. I would buy a manual and do a lot of research on how to do this swap so it goes as smooth as possible.
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Old 02-14-2006, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quikflip27
i have decided to swap my engine into a b18c1 gsr engine, and then go turbo. what are your opinions on this?
Why not turbo LS? Everything is way cheaper to buy/replace and you'll have plenty of potential.
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Old 02-14-2006, 03:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the reply's so far, as for keeping the ls and do a rebuild to it, i considered alot into choosing a gsr swap.
ls: ups and downs
already have the engine +
easy to boost on+
needs complete new internals-
175,000 miles on it already-
comparably low redline-
comparably low stock hp-

gsr:
still need to buy engine and install -
will need better tune - (not really)
can use stock internals+
> 35,000 miles +
better redline+
better response and power for time out of boost +

im trying to get around 280+ whp and stay street legal fyi

there are more things that also affect my decision, but i cant list them.
thanks for all help you guys provided. what should i do with the b18b?
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project: prodigy aka "the shit" dubbed "rose"
car:1994 integra rs 4 door
Sir-G swap, hasport mounts, shifter bushings
150 Whp 116 Tq Mom's DD

projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more

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Old 02-14-2006, 04:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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LS:
+For the price of a stock GS-R swap, you could rebuild the internals with bulletproof stuff (and virtually have ZERO miles) and run boost levels a stock GS-R could only dream of

Who cares about stock hp levels when you're going to be highly modified and at 2-2.5x stock hp levels?

And how exactly does the GS-R have better response and power off-boost? Last I checked, the LS has longer stroke/powerband more suited to midrange/more low-end torque.

Your logic so far seems kind of strange to me. You're spending way more for a block that is no stronger... when you could spend the same building up the LS, have better reliability, effectively lower miles, and a much stronger block in the end. You're taking a stock 10.0:1 compression block with some miles on it over a freshly rebuilt strong as a mofo block that will have whatever C/R you want and will be easier to tune for about the same price.
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Old 02-14-2006, 05:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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that does seem logical. you have a good point with what you said. can you or anyone throw me a decent setup below 2.5g's that will keep me passing somg w/ a greddy turbo kit and would be good for 300 hp? thanks for the help on this, im goin back to the drawing board.
peace

edit: juss going to start a list of what might need to be replaced...cams, pistons, rings, arms, crank?, gaskets, valvetrain (need more specifics on what parts) anything else? is it possible to hone a block in my garage? cuz my auto teacher was honing a inline 6 in the shop with just an air rachet with some spring loaded device at the end of a flexishaft. i dont think that would bee too accurate, right?
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-Ivan

project: prodigy aka "the shit" dubbed "rose"
car:1994 integra rs 4 door
Sir-G swap, hasport mounts, shifter bushings
150 Whp 116 Tq Mom's DD

projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more

function and form, finally at equilibrium.
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If your shooting for 300whp, Your better off doing a custom build. All the bolt-on turbo kits are made for the street / daily driver type cars generally shooting for 200-250 range.

Piece one together, better parts, and economically smarter. My .02 cents.
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Old 02-15-2006, 06:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FooD2001
If your shooting for 300whp, Your better off doing a custom build. All the bolt-on turbo kits are made for the street / daily driver type cars generally shooting for 200-250 range.

Piece one together, better parts, and economically smarter. My .02 cents.
rep 4 you.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franky299 View Post
howd you lose 35 hp since page 1? did one of your stickers fall off

Quote:
Originally Posted by parish View Post
My benz is the first one to launch at the light. I see ricer like u everyday on road wanna race me. I just beat evo few weeks back by 2 cars.
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Old 02-15-2006, 06:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quikflip27
that does seem logical. you have a good point with what you said. can you or anyone throw me a decent setup below 2.5g's that will keep me passing somg w/ a greddy turbo kit and would be good for 300 hp? thanks for the help on this, im goin back to the drawing board.
peace

edit: juss going to start a list of what might need to be replaced...cams, pistons, rings, arms, crank?, gaskets, valvetrain (need more specifics on what parts) anything else? is it possible to hone a block in my garage? cuz my auto teacher was honing a inline 6 in the shop with just an air rachet with some spring loaded device at the end of a flexishaft. i dont think that would bee too accurate, right?


For all the money you're talking about getting rid of your motor for a b18c1(which is a nice motor i must say so myself ;-) haha ) and then prepping it for boost and then boosting it. You coudl either rebuild your current motor than boost it. OR you cuold just go N/A for now and get a k20 swap and make 210-220 hp and have over 220 whp and have insane potential, but that is mucho dinero.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franky299 View Post
howd you lose 35 hp since page 1? did one of your stickers fall off

Quote:
Originally Posted by parish View Post
My benz is the first one to launch at the light. I see ricer like u everyday on road wanna race me. I just beat evo few weeks back by 2 cars.
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