I'm looking to tighten up the feel of my car a bit. I've got 150K miles on my car so i'm sure the stock rubbers are showing there age. I'm not interested in taking my parts to a shop and and having them pressed in and out...trying to keep this job as cheap as possible. I saw the energy suspension kit on ebay for about $140 shipped. Here is all that it comes with.
-Front and rear control arm bushings
-Front strut rod bushings
-Front shock bushings
-Rear shock bushings
-Front end links
-Steering rack bushings (w/power steering only)
-Transmission shifter stabilizer bushings (manual transmission only)
-Ball joint boots
-Tie rod end boots
Could I install al of these with just hand tools. Thanks for any advice.
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
most of them should be managable with hand tools. i know for sure you can do the shifter bushings and the tie rod bushings since ive already done those. youll need a fork/rod seprator for the tie rods.
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
most of them should be managable with hand tools. i know for sure you can do the shifter bushings and the tie rod bushings since ive already done those. youll need a fork/rod seprator for the tie rods.
-quikflip
i agree, they are easy to install. If u look around on internet to find some instructions for each bushing, then u'll have no plm doing it by hands. Instructions with pictures definetely help alot.
I heard you are suppose to grease the hell out of the polyurathane bushings (like in the energy suspension kit) so they don't squeak, is that true? If so what kind of grease are you supose to use?
I'm looking to tighten up the feel of my car a bit. I've got 150K miles on my car so i'm sure the stock rubbers are showing there age. I'm not interested in taking my parts to a shop and and having them pressed in and out...trying to keep this job as cheap as possible. I saw the energy suspension kit on ebay for about $140 shipped. Here is all that it comes with.
-Front and rear control arm bushings
-Front strut rod bushings
-Front shock bushings
-Rear shock bushings
-Front end links
-Steering rack bushings (w/power steering only)
-Transmission shifter stabilizer bushings (manual transmission only)
-Ball joint boots
-Tie rod end boots
Could I install al of these with just hand tools. Thanks for any advice.
I did most of that on my civic befor I left for Texas.
frt+rear control arm bushings. You will need to remove the old bushing. I had no press so... I torched out the old bushing rubber(remove arms out of the car first) then used a hacksaw to cut the outer sleeve(becarefull not to cut into the arms). The new ES bushings just push in. They are two piece with a center insert.
front end links. Those are kinda self explanitory. They are just really long bolts with bushings.
ball joint and tie boots. You will need a tierod fork. Do not forget to take out the cottor pin befor you try to unbolt the ball joint.
hope that helps out a bit.
Mods: b18c sirg swap, innovative mounts all around, apex ws2 catback, high flow cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by integ3
I heard you are suppose to grease the hell out of the polyurathane bushings (like in the energy suspension kit) so they don't squeak, is that true? If so what kind of grease are you supose to use?
you dont have to "grease the hell out of the polyurathane bushings" just coat them in it so it has some lubrication
-quikflip
projekt: Tarzier
97 ek hatch
back to D-series (was: Sir-G swap, oem lsd equipped)
apex'i ws2 catback exhaust, spoon shift knob, skunk 2 short shifter, omni power street coilovers, little appearance and audio goodies
165 Whp 126 Tq is no more
I just finished replacing all the bushings on my second car with ES bushings. I had a lot of siezed bolts rusted to the inner sleeves. If you live in the rust belt, you better have a can of PB Blaster, oxyacetylene torch, replacement bolts, and various other tools. The OEM bushings can be pressed out. If this method is not possible, drill and burn the rubber until the inner sleeve can be removed. Then the outer sleeve will have a notch cut in it to relieve tension and be removed.The ES bushings can be pressed in with a C-clamp or vise.
Installing these also prevents binding which is unavoidable with OEM bushings.
As far as lubrication, make sure you use the polylube that comes with the kit and make sure you get the black bushings. Black ES bushings are graphite impregnated so even after the polylube works its way out, the graphite will prevent squeaking. Red ES bushings are not graphite impregnated.
This improved my handling considerably and plan to do it to my new teg.
I'm in the process of a making a tech article for the car I did this to already. Then I plan to do the same for my teg. I'll post a link once its finished.
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