Hey, I'm checking out a 1995 integra LS/VTEC and was wondering what kind of preformance it can be pushed to with its current setup (if any higher without changing a bunch of parts up):
Engine has 22k miles and had been set up by hondata and inline pro for SCCA SM-class racing.
Current engine specs:
Dyno sheet: 183 WHP (looking to push out, realistically at least another 3-10 hp given my current financial situation) and 135 ft-lbs torque.
Parts: AEM II cold air intake
lightened (12 lbs) flywheel
stage 1 competition clutch
Type-r Cams/intake manifold
65 MM throttle body
Adjustable cam gears
DC headers and high-flow cat
Greddy exhaust and muffler
Stock 5-speed tranny
OEM differential
I guess all I see right now are new cams, tranny and differential for higher power transfer to the wheels but I want to know some input from the community.
Yea, cams would be easy (probably warrant a valvetrain upgrade as well). You could keep it mild with a Skunk2 Stage 2, Crower/Brian Crower Stage 2, or go a bit crazier (but that would mean some pistons to crank up your compression ratio).
A better header (at least ITR 4-1) would probably give you that 3whp gain alone. Same is probably true with an Edelbrock Performer X manifold (midrange-peak), or the Skunk2 Pro-Series (more peak).
What kind of Hondata setup is it? S200, S300? Do you know anybody in your area that actually has the means to support Hondata? Make sure your dyno/tuner can use Hondata; otherwise just rip it out and use whatever they use (and since most of the quality tuning stuff is free, you could sell the Hondata for a nice bit of cash).
ITR LSD would be nice, maybe changing up the FD to ITR as well.
it's a hondata s200 design. I'll probably end up going with the Crower/Brian Crower Stage 2 cams because I've heard about skunk 2 cams breaking.
I'm unaware of the specifics of the engine other than what's listed, but I'll be talking to the seller about the extra details on the vehicle that you mentioned.
To be honest, I'm unsure of who in the area could support hondata, but I've not been looking, so thank you for the notice on that!
Later on, I'm going to be doing a full JDM ITR exterior and interior conversion (right-hand drive, baby!)
Other mods:
Sway bars:
Front: 22mm civic
Rear: Comptech rear braced/adjustable
Strut bars:
Front: Neuspeed
Rear: DC Sports
Ingram Front and rear camber arms
Mugen Trailing arm bushings
Koni Single adjustable SPSS Valved shocks
400 lb H&R Springs on front and rear
Groundcontrol Front and rear coilovers
Kuhmo ASX tires on 15x7" wheels (he's also throwing in the origional 14" wheels that have dunlop ASX tires on them)
Moroso oil Breather can
and a security system! woo!
but before all that goes, I gotta get rid of my near stock '92 LS... *shudder*
Oh, so you haven't purchased the car as of yet. If you haven't already, just take the time to have it compression tested, and report back with the numbers.
It's an easy, cheap way of just checking that the motor isn't tired, or wasn't built diligently, or has sealing problems already etc etc.
Also, if you are in the middle of the test, and the numbers are looking bad, begin a 'wet' compression test to see if that cures the problem. Wet tests squirt oil into the cylinders during the test, which may help seal the piston/wall contact points to prevent blowby, and can lead you to know where the problem was coming from.
The clutch is fairly worn so they're going to be replacing it before getting it to me, and I will be tracking this thing for SCCA solo events until I get comfortable driving against others, so I'm thinking of having them replace the current clutch with a stage 2 or 3 of some sort and a bit better of a transmission w/ LSD, hopefully the GSR transmission if it can fit.
I will also be upgrading to the hondata s300 due to some of its features for another upcoming secret project, which is in the R&D stages but looks very promising.
so, with that said about the clutches.... what would you all reccomend for 'em?
I've never done a clutch job myself, but my friend has had two turbo projects; 270whp D16Y8 with ACT Stage 2 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel, and 200whp B18C1 with an Exedy Stage 3.
Both were great. This Stage 3 clutch is stupid stiff. I had to move his car at the dragstrip, and I immediately stalled the thing trying to drive it like I do my own car...the clutch pedal just flew out....but it sure as hell keeps things spinning.
Get a clutch that will match your final project goals. No point in doing it twice.
Stage 2 it is then... I at least want to keep it somewhat easy to drive in daily conditions, but still make it competitive enough to race. I think that would be a good trade-off
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