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Old 05-28-2008, 09:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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B18C1 GSR full internal build

For my internal build up I was wondering what your guys' opinions are on preferred brands of parts. I already have some ideas which I will list and I appreciate any feedback and or opinions. The car is a 1994 Integra GSR with a B18C1...I plan on boring to 84.5mm and Darton sleeving. I'm prolly going to run a 9:1 CP with a GT35R. Street tune: 91 octane pump gas at 13~15 psi, Track Tune: 100+ octane race gas and ~25 psi.

Pistons: JE
Rods: Corillo
Cams: ITR
Valvetrain: Ferrea
Injectors: Precision

What would your choices be???
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Engaging in Full Internal and Turbo Build on my '94 GSR Teg for my high school senior masterwork project ...Daily driver is '07 Subaru Impreza 2.5i...I AM a hybrid of BOXER RUMBLE and VTEC SCREAM
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bobby BUdds is just really niceBobby BUdds is just really niceBobby BUdds is just really niceBobby BUdds is just really niceBobby BUdds is just really nice
Well I had my block done up by laskey racing. I'm happy with the internals that were chosen. Here's a quick list:

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
Custom Pistons and rings 9:1
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly

I'm told by Mike Laskey that they can make up to 1000 WHP. Were you planning on assembling your block yourself? If not Laskey is good because they blueprint it for you. This means they build it tighter then manufacturer specs.

For my head i went with
SuperTech Stainless Steel nitride coated valves
dual valve springs
titanium retainers

I've also heard great things about Ferrera valvetrains.

I skipped out on the port&polish to save some money since I could meet my goals of 500WHP on stock portwork.

I just got my head back 2 days ago and will be slapping it together on the weekend.

You might want to consider downgrading that turbo to a GT30R. Mike@synapse is making I think 575WHP with port&polish on a GT30R. GT30R is better suited for your engine and drivetrain. The step from the GT30R to GT35R will cost you more money on drivetrain parts. With the GT30R I'm able to use a competetion Stage 5 Sprung Clutch. However if I wanted to run a GT35R I'd have to add an additional pressure plate, plus your diff/axles is at a greater risk of breaking. I mean if your desire is to be making 600+ WHP GT35 all the way but I think the GT30R is much better suited if it can deliver you to your horsepower goals. I was originally building for the GT35 but recently changed my mind to the GT30r. Mike@Synapse swapped out his 35 for a 30 and is happy with the new turbo.

For Injectors I ordered precision 1000 cc. I'm running a ctr intake cam and a gsr exhaust cam. People have made great power on the stock cams.

A note on the bore size I notice alot of people go 84mm but check what Mike Laskey has to say about bore sizes:

Quote:
First off, all sleeves are made of nodular iron, as it is the only material that is compatible with breaking in (seating) rings. Therefore, all sleeves have virtually the same physical strength. (The real differences in sleeved blocks are who does the install, how good does the installer holds his machined tolerances and what is the installing procedure). Taking that fact into account, bore size in any sleeved block is limited to the center line of the stock bores in the block and how much meat is left BETWEEN the cylinders. I always tell my average customer (using his motor on the street) to do no more than 83 mm on a turbo application and 85 mm all motor. Obviously these numbers can be increased and the motor will live but the question is for how long and how many rebores are left in the block. We are testing an 86mm turbo block with the thought that the block must live and survive in a racing environment. I would assume that same block would go 87 in all motor and be able to live also. This block uses Prelude sleeves but of course is still limited by bore centerlines.
I believe claims of an 87+mm are probably true. The question becomes how long did the block survive and did the extra bore make more power or cause a power loss because of the sleeves distorting from being too thin and actually cause compression loss?
Benson is also working on offset sleeve project that changes the centerline of the cylinders. This can increase potential bore size available. The first tests will be in an all motor configuration.
I know I didn't give you a definite conclusion on bore size because I don't think there has been enough real testing by ANYONE. Any company that will tell you that their sleeves are good for X amount of boost or Y amount of bore, is really just blowing smoke. It is all based on the thickness between the sleeves. The reason I preach 83mm for turbo blocks is that it allows room for several rebuilds before you will need to sell your block to your all motor buddy. Tuning errors and part failures can cause the need for a fresh bore from time to time. For those that say I can make more power at 84mm bore rather than 83, I say just turn up the boost an extra pound on your 83mm and enjoy the power.
I took his advice and went with 83MM for my first build. Well good luck with the project and I hope my post helps a bit.
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby BUdds View Post
Well I had my block done up by laskey racing. I'm happy with the internals that were chosen. Here's a quick list:

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
Custom Pistons and rings 9:1
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly

I'm told by Mike Laskey that they can make up to 1000 WHP. Were you planning on assembling your block yourself? If not Laskey is good because they blueprint it for you. This means they build it tighter then manufacturer specs.

For my head i went with
SuperTech Stainless Steel nitride coated valves
dual valve springs
titanium retainers

I've also heard great things about Ferrera valvetrains.

I skipped out on the port&polish to save some money since I could meet my goals of 500WHP on stock portwork.

I just got my head back 2 days ago and will be slapping it together on the weekend.

You might want to consider downgrading that turbo to a GT30R. Mike@synapse is making I think 575WHP with port&polish on a GT30R. GT30R is better suited for your engine and drivetrain. The step from the GT30R to GT35R will cost you more money on drivetrain parts. With the GT30R I'm able to use a competetion Stage 5 Sprung Clutch. However if I wanted to run a GT35R I'd have to add an additional pressure plate, plus your diff/axles is at a greater risk of breaking. I mean if your desire is to be making 600+ WHP GT35 all the way but I think the GT30R is much better suited if it can deliver you to your horsepower goals. I was originally building for the GT35 but recently changed my mind to the GT30r. Mike@Synapse swapped out his 35 for a 30 and is happy with the new turbo.

For Injectors I ordered precision 1000 cc. I'm running a ctr intake cam and a gsr exhaust cam. People have made great power on the stock cams.

A note on the bore size I notice alot of people go 84mm but check what Mike Laskey has to say about bore sizes:



I took his advice and went with 83MM for my first build. Well good luck with the project and I hope my post helps a bit.
Hey thanks! ...I'll ask my supervisor at Collective Racing (shop I'm going thru) abt the GT30R vs GT35R..I am going performance axles and an lsd so that shouldn't be a problem except 4 the money haha...What fuel system r u running? Scott at Collectiive said the Walbro 255 will prolly max out on my app unless there is a Bosch inline...what's your setup?
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Engaging in Full Internal and Turbo Build on my '94 GSR Teg for my high school senior masterwork project ...Daily driver is '07 Subaru Impreza 2.5i...I AM a hybrid of BOXER RUMBLE and VTEC SCREAM
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Old 05-30-2008, 04:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by II HUFF II View Post
Hey thanks! ...I'll ask my supervisor at Collective Racing (shop I'm going thru) abt the GT30R vs GT35R..I am going performance axles and an lsd so that shouldn't be a problem except 4 the money haha...What fuel system r u running? Scott at Collectiive said the Walbro 255 will prolly max out on my app unless there is a Bosch inline...what's your setup?

To be clear my car isn't running yet, but I know someone with a near identical setup that has been running for over a year without a problem. I'm sure you know tuning is everything. I'm hoping to have my ride tuned early July. The Walbro 255 will be good enough.

I just ordered:

Walbro 255
1000cc Precision injectors
Hondata s300

Will be purchasing fuel rail and regulator soon, but you can use stock parts for 500WHP. Might also upgrade to steel braided lines in the future.

Talk to Mike@Synapse about the GT30r vs GT35r. He'll have alot of insight on the subject because he has ran both.

Don't go spending money on axles to quick. If you can get rid of wheel hop(homemade stiffened engine mounts) stock axles can hold 600 WHP. Ya I didn't believe it either. I wasted $1000 on DSS 600WHP axles since that was my original goal. Mike broke his differential with his stock axles at 600WHP. I'd atleast try running the stock axles first before spending the money. Hope I can save ya the money I wasted haha.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Car: '94 GSR Teg and '07 Impreza 2.5i
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II HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these partsII HUFF II is infamous around these parts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby BUdds View Post
To be clear my car isn't running yet, but I know someone with a near identical setup that has been running for over a year without a problem. I'm sure you know tuning is everything. I'm hoping to have my ride tuned early July. The Walbro 255 will be good enough.

I just ordered:

Walbro 255
1000cc Precision injectors
Hondata s300

Will be purchasing fuel rail and regulator soon, but you can use stock parts for 500WHP. Might also upgrade to steel braided lines in the future.

Talk to Mike@Synapse about the GT30r vs GT35r. He'll have alot of insight on the subject because he has ran both.

Don't go spending money on axles to quick. If you can get rid of wheel hop(homemade stiffened engine mounts) stock axles can hold 600 WHP. Ya I didn't believe it either. I wasted $1000 on DSS 600WHP axles since that was my original goal. Mike broke his differential with his stock axles at 600WHP. I'd atleast try running the stock axles first before spending the money. Hope I can save ya the money I wasted haha.
Hey thnx bro I will contact mike for some insight...I appreciate all your input on this ...I will be pulling the motor to assess the damage and start the build within a week and a half once I moved into my new house with a garage haha.
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Engaging in Full Internal and Turbo Build on my '94 GSR Teg for my high school senior masterwork project ...Daily driver is '07 Subaru Impreza 2.5i...I AM a hybrid of BOXER RUMBLE and VTEC SCREAM
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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mike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peonsmike@synapse Hello down there miniscule peons
i suppose i can make a few comments, ive been working with bobby for over a year now to get him a setup that he will be happy with. most of what i will say bobby already said such as going smaller on the bore to give yourself some added room for the head gasket to seal, as well as a buffer incase you have any issues and need to bore and hone again incase of a failure. 84.5mm is the absolute max i would suggest trying to make big power with, definately not a place you want to start at.

you list your intended psi but no power goals. as bobby touched up on, to make complete use of the additional power the gt35r offers over the gt3076r requires a sumped tank fuel system, and a twin disk clutch. on the contrary the gt3076r can be fully utilized with a clutch that is much softer on the drivetrain, and much cheaper. 1000cc injectors and a walbro 255 can support just about everything the 30r can throw at it.

who is gonna be doing the sleeving?
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