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Old 10-22-2008, 06:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Expectations

Hello everyone, I've researched my info & I've decided to go with a naturally aspirated set-up over a turbo set-up on my B20VTEC. My goal is near 300hp on 90 octane. I want to run 11.5 : 1 CR with Skunk2 pro 2 series camshaft with valve train upgrade on 90 octane (highest available at pump)gas with octane booster and a block guard. What amount of power can I expect to harness from this? What advice do would you have on my high compression set up?

I have a 95 teg with the foll specs:

SPECIFICATION:

B20B (BOTTOM)
B16 (HEAD TYOE R CAMS, INTAKE MANIFOLD & THROTTLE BODY)
GREDDY EXHAUST MANIFOLD 4-2-1 MODIFIED
ARP ROD BOLT & ACS RACING BEARINGS
AEM COLD AIR INTEKE
315 cc SUPERCHARGEFUEL INJECTORS
WALBORO FULL RACING GAS PUMP (GROUNDED)
GROUNDS KIT (4 WHEEL ABS system)
LIMITED SLIP GEAR BOX (ALL NEW GEARS)
SiR clutch, SKIMM FLYWHEEL
2 1/2" MUFFLER PIPE SYSTEM (MIDAS MUFFLERS,APEXI DRUM)
FULLY TUNED COMPUTER
9000 REV LIMIT with shift light
LAUNCH LIMITER 5000 RPM
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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w/ that youll hit maybe 180 or 190

Advice: Sell it because after a while its not going to be streetable and your defitnitely not going to be able to on fuel as low as 90
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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tech wrench

What do u mean when u say that it will not be streetable? 180/190 sounds low. How can I make real NA power on 90 octane with my current B16/B20?

I was out run by an EK civic with B18 a few hrs ago, this make me even more driven towards more power. My reason for going NA is that I think that the engine would be more reliable than if it was boosted. If my last resort is boosting to get the power that I want, then that's what I will have to do. I saw some turbonetics kit on ebay, I may have to get one (cost $1779).

I am a medical student operating on a tight budget. I'm sure I could buy the turbo kit but I will have to save the money to have it installed and tuned. What I will do, depends on the suggestions that are proposed.

Thanks a lot in advance, for helping me with my project build!
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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go buy the turbo it and you will put that gsr (if even bolt on) to sleep

look in active topics for a thread called "New member"

and read me and wvu conversation in the first 3 pages.. you will see why

In short.. It cost waaaaaaay more money to make n/a power along with high compression

boost is alot cheaper and more efficient, like thousands of dollars cheaper
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah I got it! Gonna need a lil help though. Can you please examine this kit eBay Motors: Treadstone Turbo Kit Acura Integra GSR GS LS B18 B16 (item 350110407812 end time Nov-13-08 21:54:12 PST) and advise accordingly. Also, is it reliable to use a block guard at 300hp and be reliable?

If not then recommend the ones I should get; I would have to buy the sleeves and have it "hammered in" at the machine shop. I say hammered in because I think that that is the way blocks are sleeved.

If it's not ok to post this link, then I'll delete it.
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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honestly people say you supposed to use a block guard but i dont think it mattrs becuase you block can still underneath it.

Just bore and sleeve it. There are different ways of sleeving the block but they are all relatively the same

I didnt clik that link only because its an ebay link. BE CAREFUL when buying parts of ebay. Cheap parts that are made from cheap metal are highly prone to breaking. Also, be ware of kits from ebay because many people have trouble with the installation though it says it fits.

You get what you pay for.

Now this isnt saying all kits from ebay are going to break or they all dont fit right, but i have heard too many stories to find out for myself.
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1990 - Redtop Sr swapped Nissan 240sx-Project(sold)

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4 cars, 24months, 2 month of actual driving
:PM ME:
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The only 4 cyl honda makes that will reach that power level w/o turbo is going to be a fully built, fully tuned, very expensive k24/k20 combo but it would not be streetable IMO
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The only 4 cyl honda makes that will reach that power level w/o turbo is going to be a fully built, fully tuned, very expensive k24/k20 combo but it would not be streetable IMO
I forgot who the performance group was but its in z3. Running on methanol, a2/a1(CRV) i think, fully rebuilt, pushing 360. But that aint streetable

all-motor K series not pushing too much more than 300, are streetable though. As long as you go with the 2.0/2.4 combo. Or maybe even the jdm K20
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1990 - Redtop Sr swapped Nissan 240sx-Project(sold)

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4 cars, 24months, 2 month of actual driving
:PM ME:
SR Blacktop NONVTC ECU FS
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yea the 24/20 combo is deadly if done right and can be very mild mannered on the street.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The best easiest and quickest most efficent way would be just sleeve it with high compression pistons and build the shit outta the head Cams springs retainers port polish ETC.... im puttin down 223 in my civic with just these basic mods with my B18C5
 
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The best easiest and quickest most efficent way would be just sleeve it with high compression pistons and build the shit outta the head Cams springs retainers port polish ETC.... im puttin down 223 in my civic with just these basic mods with my B18C5
That setup isnt that basic..Pretty much a built street head right there..You got a tune?

How much did it run you to gain 20-30hp??

Even with the type R 300hp is not going to happen. Not "quick and easy".

Your going to have trouble getting past 250.
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1990 - Redtop Sr swapped Nissan 240sx-Project(sold)

1992-Acura Integra

4 cars, 24months, 2 month of actual driving
:PM ME:
SR Blacktop NONVTC ECU FS
SR20DET RDTOP Cylinder Head FS
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My computer needs changing. Can I buy a chipped & tuned computer online for example from phearable.net and Skunk2 P28 ecu on ebay, that claim to tune the ecu to the vehicle specs? Will I still have to carry it to my tuner when I plug it on my car to be adjusted/ retuned?
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My computer needs changing. Can I buy a chipped & tuned computer online for example from phearable.net and Skunk2 P28 ecu on ebay, that claim to tune the ecu to the vehicle specs? Will I still have to carry it to my tuner when I plug it on my car to be adjusted/ retuned?
The ECU from phearable is an obdo chipped ecu set to read a p28.
(i guess thats what its saying)

Dont buy "chips" of ebay, they just make your car run extremely rich. Go for hondata, AEM ,Crome, and many other..Hondata bein the fav to use.

But you have to burn chips everytime you retune..Its not like a reflash for K-Series.

You can buy chips for the different work done to your motor. You just have to look
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1990 - Redtop Sr swapped Nissan 240sx-Project(sold)

1992-Acura Integra

4 cars, 24months, 2 month of actual driving
:PM ME:
SR Blacktop NONVTC ECU FS
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I've decided to go NA & get the 11.5 : 1 CR pistons & cams. This is because I can only come up with about $1,800 and so, can only afford a turbo kit from ebay [contraindicated based on people's comments] as the others are too expensive.

My car is OBD1 so I think the OBD0 will not work. I need a new OBD1 chipped computer & based on what you said I will need to get a new chip.

Are u saying that I can buy chips or chipped OBD1 ecu from these manufacturers "hondata, AEM ,Crome" for my engine set-up?
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I've decided to go NA & get the 11.5 : 1 CR pistons & cams. This is because I can only come up with about $1,800 and so, can only afford a turbo kit from ebay [contraindicated based on people's comments] as the others are too expensive.

My car is OBD1 so I think the OBD0 will not work. I need a new OBD1 chipped computer & based on what you said I will need to get a new chip.

Are u saying that I can buy chips or chipped OBD1 ecu from these manufacturers "hondata, AEM ,Crome" for my engine set-up?
Just remeber, wont be making much power even with the larger discplacment bottom end. Probably no where near 200hp with a mild cam, stock block and such.

Look around, I am pretty sure some manufacturers out there make pre tuned chips where its almost like "plug and play"

The manufacturers I listed will give you the tuning progams, as well as the chips (or may be extra). They are expensive though, with that 1g you would barely have enough left for anything but the programs.

IMO, dont go N/A..Basicall up to a certain point, the higher(hp) you go N/A, the less streetable it is.

Take your 1,800..Save up for another 1k and get..
-T25 DSM turbo ~$100 (you could find one less)
-Starion intercooler ~$75
-Suzuki Vitara Pistons ~ $200
-pipping $100(you may be able to go with ebay for this)
-Chip and tune 1500-2000( youd be spending this anyway for you N/A)
-Manual Boost controller ~$100
-BPV or if you want noise a BOV (but from ebay this might come with the piping kit)
-Log manifold (ebay)~$200

You have a turbo setup and with 10-12lbs with your 9:1 CR, you will see yourself at a little more or equal to 200hp (T-25 maxes at 15). With much from to grow.

Now this is a beginners setup which is why going with ebay is not AS critical. If you want a more advance setup you would need bigger injectors, electronic boost controller, and a better tune

For over power N/A<Turbo all day.
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1988 Honda CRX D15B2 w/MPFI swap: pacesetter headers, tanabe 2 1/4 exhaust system, ZC tranmission, B&M short shifter, "Custom Shift Linkage", "aftermarket" intake, "8 yr old" tanabe lowering springs (sold)

1990 - Redtop Sr swapped Nissan 240sx-Project(sold)

1992-Acura Integra

4 cars, 24months, 2 month of actual driving
:PM ME:
SR Blacktop NONVTC ECU FS
SR20DET RDTOP Cylinder Head FS
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