Thanks ya'll ! I'll definitely keep the car though & modify it to the very tires (kerihowell tyres) when I'm working. I love the DC2s. I saw a boosted gold mugen DC2 in importtuner magazine 2day (forgot which issue).
I just can't wait to start practicing. For now I'll chose from one of the folowing:
1) buy 1 part at a time for a turbo build (long term build, in the meantime I'll have not much fun with the car)
2) buy the kit from ebay and change the manifold & wastegate & buy a turbo timer
3) go with 11.5 CR, cams, injectors, port & polished head shooting for as much as I can get over 200hp until I can embark on my true build
Just to let ya'll know. I will b getting a B18A block to put with my B16 head to boost. I managed to acquire >$700+ and will start building slowly until i eventually get there. I may have some questions as I go along and will need your assistance.
I'm going to buy a block and I want to know:
Is it that only the
B18A1 block that comes from the 1990-1993 Acura Integra usdm "RS/LS/GS" (DA9) can be used to make a frank with the B16A
or
can the B18A found in 1986-1989 Accord Aerodeck LXR-S/LX-S (Japan),1986-1989 Accord EXL-S/EX-S (Japan) and 1986-1989 Vigor MXL-S (Japan) be used?
I never messed with both motors. So check to see rod length, stroke, and pistons. Remember you dont want a CR more than 9.5:1. Maybe place it safe and stick with 9:1. Chances are the USDM motor will be cheaper to use, but there are deals....somehwere...
My aim is 350whp on pump gas (low boost) and 500+ on race gas (high boost).
My question is for the turbo go with turbonetics T3/04 or Garrett Turbo T3/T04E Stage 3 backwheel with 0.63 exhaust housing or T360-1 Stage 3 backwheel with 0.63 exhaust housing ?
Well on agp for $700 just for the garret turbo. Using their specs this turbo can flow around 600+cfm (unknown psi) which is good for (low balling)500hp+. I have to say i think both turbos would flow close to the same, with the same options. Their both t3 turbine with 70mm trim wheel, .63 housing, but the compressor wheel size varies. What you really want to look at is the compressor maps, where it makes power most effiecently.
You have to build the motor to accept these options. I mean full rebuild. From the throttle body down to the exhaust tip. Might i recomend full throttle shifting (holds rpms steady, even though you let off the gas). You wont have to wory about maxing out these turbos, what youll be worry about is trying to get it to spool before 4k and getting it out of its surge limit. O and flowing around 600cfm you probably could use 94+ octane, again psi unknown.
Remember thats just the turbo, not inlcuding lines, intercooler and piping, wastegate and controller, tuning and program+dyno time.
Well on agp for $700 just for the garret turbo. Using their specs this turbo can flow around 600+cfm (unknown psi) which is good for (low balling)500hp+. I have to say i think both turbos would flow close to the same, with the same options. Their both t3 turbine with 70mm trim wheel, .63 housing, but the compressor wheel size varies. What you really want to look at is the compressor maps, where it makes power most effiecently.
You have to build the motor to accept these options. I mean full rebuild. From the throttle body down to the exhaust tip. Might i recomend full throttle shifting (holds rpms steady, even though you let off the gas). You wont have to wory about maxing out these turbos, what youll be worry about is trying to get it to spool before 4k and getting it out of its surge limit. O and flowing around 600cfm you probably could use 94+ octane, again psi unknown.
Remember thats just the turbo, not inlcuding lines, intercooler and piping, wastegate and controller, tuning and program+dyno time.
How much are you trying to spend again?
I'm spending as I accumulate the $$ but my budget is about $5K in parts. I'm building piece by piece ; so that way I do it once & do it right because I will be very frustrated if I boost unreliably.
I have in mind to get:
a sleeved B18B block w/ 9:1CR CP pistons
(MAY) get a GSR head & ditch my B16 head
Brian Crower springs + retainers,
XS Power tubular manifold + down pipe,
Garrett Turbo T3/T04E Stage 3 backwheel with 0.63 exhaust housing or T360-1 Stage 3 backwheel with 0.63 exhaust housing,
Tell me what you think. I downloaded an article on how to read compressor maps, so I can effectively compare both turbos; gonna read up full throttle shifting as well. Oh! If you know where I could buy these at a reasonable cost PLEASE FEEL FREE TO TELL ME
Be careful with XS power, people say these tend to crack but others say they work quite well.
Call crower cams and they can help you quite a bit. Tell them the setup your going to run and they could hook you up with a nice cam. 5k for this setup is possible, but you may have to catch deals.
To save money dont get a turbo timer. Just let your car idle for another 5 min at most.
Dont go with the greddy. Look into what happens when you use piggyback systems that intercept MAP signals. Stick with the factory one. If anything MAF is a better way to go. Your motor alone may cost you 2k+ after all the machining is done.
Instead of getting a piggyback system. Get an Eprom editor. Uberdata, Hondata, Crome etc. Remeber dont get piggyback
Dont forget valves and becuse your getting stronger springs you may want to look at strong seats for the valves. That is if B18s dont have integral valve seats.
Good stuff, I'm continually being educated. I actuallu did forget the valves. What do you think about the PeakBoost turbo kit for GSR Integra on Turbo Kits for Acura, BMW, Ford, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Lexus & VW the one for $3119 with A/C compatibility. I've asked them for a quote with the GT3076R. I think that equal length manifold is quite popular (hope it's good).
I wish you a Happy & prosperous New Year!
I'm planning to buy this engine at the end of February (saving for the purchase). B18C5 stock bore with the foll specs:
BLOX Retainers & Springs
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Type R cams
Fuel rail 1000cc injectors
Sheep Horn stainless steel equal length headers
Tappets cover fitted with anodized blue aluminium threaded fittings for ventilation
Brand new TypeR oil & water Pump
Brand new timing belt with freshly installed upgraded seals entore engine
Racing main & conrod bearings
CP Pistons
Eagle Rods
Block Guard
Fully balanced & blue printed bottom ½
Hondata ECU S300 Hondata
2.5 inch factory bent & coated intercooler plumbing
Tial waste gate
Tial Bov
24 X 12 X 3.5 bar & plate XS Power intercooler
NEED CLUTCH & GUAGES GT35R dual ball bearing turbo with .82 A/R NX Express Nos Kit (which I only want to use at the track)
I will be running this with by LSD gearbox. I'm very concerned with turbo lag. My goal is to build a street terror (NOT STREET RACING) daily driver about 400+ to 500+ whp minimum high boost (ideally 500+) & do a few track passes occasionally.
Can the car be tuned to let the turbo spool up at around 2 - 3,000rpm through to 8-9,000rpm? I know the GT35R gives good top-end speed & I think it spools around 4,500rpm (I think this is a bit late). The only prob is that after buying this engine, paying for the installation, tuning & miscellaneous parts, I will be dead broke. So would be unable to buy a GT3076R which I think may be more suitable.
I know that I could sell the GT35R & buy the GT30R, but my problem is the wait in between this (as I would not have another car to drive). Please advise!
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Thanks ya'll ! I'll definitely keep the car though & modify it to the very tires (kerihowell tyres) when I'm working. I love the DC2s. I saw a boosted gold mugen DC2 in importtuner magazine 2day (forgot which issue). 
; so that way I do it once & do it right because I will be very frustrated if I boost unreliably.
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