i need to know how to adjust my cam gears, i just got them put on and the shop put them on the stock settings. They said to advance them about 2 0r 3% untill i got my turbo put on then to retard them. And they kept the intructions for my fpr so how do i set it. they set it up alittle he said but when i asked for details they just said to play with em' till i find what i like.... :
Mods: Straightened exhausts, larger air filter, fuel controller. Port and polish and possible turbo later
Dump that two cent business and take it to a real tuner.
Someone who says "Play with 'em till you find what you like" is asking for their customers to blow an engine (Possibly so they can sell them a new one)
You mess around with Cam gears too much, and you might be seeing your piston get intimate with your valves. And let me tell you, it ain't a romantic picture.
Mods: Straightened exhausts, larger air filter, fuel controller. Port and polish and possible turbo later
Usually within +- 3 degrees is safe. +- 10 degrees is extremely dangerous (because of valve contact - IE valve hasn't closed by the time the piston is near TDC so they collide.
But.... Advancing it doesn't always gain you power. Sometimes retarding it will. The power you gain is usually so subtle, you need a dyno to feel it - because it might only wipe 0.1 of a second off your 1/4 time.
thanks alot for the help on that. i guess i will leave em'. Whatta bout my fuel pressure regulator now though?. i forgot how to set it and they kept my instructions damn it....
Mods: Straightened exhausts, larger air filter, fuel controller. Port and polish and possible turbo later
An FPR usually has a screw that will let you turn up and down the pressure. Clearly, the higher the pressure, the richer it'll run
Tuning an FPR is a touch easier than tuning Cam gears, but once again, the best results come from running on a dyno.
If you can get your hands on a AFR meter, generally you want to tune towards mid 13s for a naturally aspirated engine. Don't let it get too close to 14.7, otherwise you'll start hearing detonation. If you hear detonation, make sure you richen it up a bit quickly.
If you have G-tech, and a long straight road to do some runs, you may be able to get a good feel for what works best in your car using that. If not, once again, dyno is best.
no afense man but you need to stop going to a shop and start doing tthis stuff your self. its not as hard(for me at least) then people make it out to be and its alot of fun to have a couple guys come over to do car S.
nahhh thats ok no offense taken but i've put alot of money into my car and im not gonna jsut start fucking around with the shit that i dont wanna have to get fixed because me and some buddies messed with it. BUT i do know how to do most of this shit. mostly on other ppls cars. i dunno why but when it comes to my own car i'd rather have a professional do it i guess... but i am going to adjust the fpr and stuff.
i just couldnt remember how the hell to do it.. thanks sunder...
Mods: Straightened exhausts, larger air filter, fuel controller. Port and polish and possible turbo later
Quote:
Originally posted by pr0_re no afense man but you need to stop going to a shop and start doing tthis stuff your self. its not as hard(for me at least) then people make it out to be and its alot of fun to have a couple guys come over to do car S.
I would say do most of it yourself. Fit the cam gears and cams yourself, fit the FPR yourself, go for it. No problem.
But don't tune by yourself. Unless you're one lucky bastard to own a dyno, you're only going to get mediocre results using a "Butt Dyno" or even a G-tech. A dyno can tell you when you gain 1/2 a HP. Can a G-tech?
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