You should really have all plugs out while doing this it does make a difference. Also you dont have to match your plugs to the same cylinder when putting them back in....who told you that?
Well it would result in a higher than proper presssure reading due to excess fuel build up in the compression chamber
cycle the engine once for every cylinder (4 cylinder equals four cranks of the engine)
You better have that fuse pulled out for the fuel or else it would cause lots of damage.
As for the crank for the number of cylinders... thats balony. You would crank it 12 times for a V12? Come on now. Just do it until it doesn't climb anymore.
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Mods: All stock, for now. Hooked up the stereo though.
I agree. Crank until it stops. I had a shop do my compression test because I didnt have a tester, and they stopped after 4 cranks, and got 135psi across the board and were satisfied with it. I made them do it right, or i wouldnt pay. Thats like doing half the job to me.
I followed these instructions for a compression check (it was good btw) but I'm just curious why the ignition system has to be disabled (the fuel system makes sense to me) because if all the plugs are out then why does it matter? The only reason I ask is that I'd like to avoid taking the cap and rotor off to take the leads off the ignition coil.
And if it is imperative to disable the ignition system, couldn't you remove a fuse or something instead? Thanks.
I followed these instructions for a compression check (it was good btw) but I'm just curious why the ignition system has to be disabled (the fuel system makes sense to me) because if all the plugs are out then why does it matter? The only reason I ask is that I'd like to avoid taking the cap and rotor off to take the leads off the ignition coil.
And if it is imperative to disable the ignition system, couldn't you remove a fuse or something instead? Thanks.
what kind of car are you testing?
you dont want the electricity from the plug wires arcing everywhere and frying things.
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'90 crx Si
D16Z6, arp rod bolts, OBD1 conversion/chipped P28, Comp cam, b16 throttle body, intake, JR Supercharger@8.5 psi, 3.2' blower pulley, crank pulley upgrade, dsm 450s, Hondata IM gasket, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 4-2-1 header, 2.5' catless MSPi exhaust, tuned via CROME Pro, 6 puck, 8lb fidanza flywheel, b&m shortshifter, catch can, autometer..=170whp/145wtq MY VIDEO(old setup)
it is as simple as removing a fuse. on mine and other obd1 hondas there is a fusebox under the hood, the one labeled ECU is the one to remove. it will disable fuel and ignition. not sure about obd2s though.
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'90 crx Si
D16Z6, arp rod bolts, OBD1 conversion/chipped P28, Comp cam, b16 throttle body, intake, JR Supercharger@8.5 psi, 3.2' blower pulley, crank pulley upgrade, dsm 450s, Hondata IM gasket, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 4-2-1 header, 2.5' catless MSPi exhaust, tuned via CROME Pro, 6 puck, 8lb fidanza flywheel, b&m shortshifter, catch can, autometer..=170whp/145wtq MY VIDEO(old setup)
it is as simple as removing a fuse. on mine and other obd1 hondas there is a fusebox under the hood, the one labeled ECU is the one to remove. it will disable fuel and ignition. not sure about obd2s though.
Thanks.
Nevermind, figured it out. I'm used to working on older carbed V8s which open the throttle when being cranked by default so blocking the throttle was not necessary.
Nevermind, figured it out. I'm used to working on older carbed V8s which open the throttle when being cranked by default so blocking the throttle was not necessary.
you should be performing compression tests with the throttle at WOT.
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'90 crx Si
D16Z6, arp rod bolts, OBD1 conversion/chipped P28, Comp cam, b16 throttle body, intake, JR Supercharger@8.5 psi, 3.2' blower pulley, crank pulley upgrade, dsm 450s, Hondata IM gasket, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 4-2-1 header, 2.5' catless MSPi exhaust, tuned via CROME Pro, 6 puck, 8lb fidanza flywheel, b&m shortshifter, catch can, autometer..=170whp/145wtq MY VIDEO(old setup)
Mods: tenzo Cold air intake, 2 1/2 inch OBX type X exhaust, 1.5 eibach dropped springs, KYB adjustable shocks, 16" low pro wheels, 205/45zr16, angel eye projector headlights, euro tails and corners, b18c swap converted to 5 speed
B18C Specs
I was gonna do compression test on mine next week since Im taking my vacation. Anyone know the specs for a B18C? Only one I can find is from googling, and it says 200.
Engine is from a 96
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I was gonna do compression test on mine next week since Im taking my vacation. Anyone know the specs for a B18C? Only one I can find is from googling, and it says 200.
Engine is from a 96
275psi
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there are three things: power, reliability, and money. you can only have two.
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