Fixed my idle problem. My 97 has what I think they call a rotary air control valve, a little different than the older IACV. The valve is in front of the throttle body. Took it apart and cleaned it, was a little crusty and wouldn't turn freely. Put back together and it now idles perfect.
ok i'm getting that fukd up idle till the car warms up then its fine so i pulled iac and cleaned it did all the steps for the fitv and now getting code 14 (iac) and my boost gage is at -20 psi so i looked and sprayed all lines no leaks but the fitv hole is not sucking at all and the iac 1 is sucking hard till warms up then normal .will the ecu make the iac work on start up if the fitv fails ,so not sure if i should get new iac or new fitv thanks for any help
Mods: tenzo Cold air intake, 2 1/2 inch OBX type X exhaust, 1.5 eibach dropped springs, KYB adjustable shocks, 16" low pro wheels, 205/45zr16, angel eye projector headlights, euro tails and corners, b18c swap converted to 5 speed
so...great write up...however why does my TB only have one hole? It sucks the whole time. Mine car will start running rough with the AC on when the engine gets warm. Any ideas? I havent taken the FIT off yet. HOpefully soon. Hard to do when you are a single parent, with an 11 month old
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Be nice to everyone you meet...you never know who will be on your jury...
so...great write up...however why does my TB only have one hole? It sucks the whole time. Mine car will start running rough with the AC on when the engine gets warm. Any ideas? I havent taken the FIT off yet. HOpefully soon. Hard to do when you are a single parent, with an 11 month old
You probably have the Type-R IM, which does not use a FITV if I'm not mistaken. If the idle is rough after warm-up check the IACV, if it does it with the A/C on then check the the ECU for the signal from the A/C (see page 2).
ok i'm getting that fukd up idle till the car warms up then its fine so i pulled iac and cleaned it did all the steps for the fitv and now getting code 14 (iac) and my boost gage is at -20 psi so i looked and sprayed all lines no leaks but the fitv hole is not sucking at all and the iac 1 is sucking hard till warms up then normal .will the ecu make the iac work on start up if the fitv fails ,so not sure if i should get new iac or new fitv thanks for any help
probally the most informative write up I've ever had to use. Easy to understand and the pictures are a great help. I thought it was good enough to register to the site just to post a good job and thanks for getting my car idling right
ok i'm getting that fukd up idle till the car warms up then its fine so i pulled iac and cleaned it did all the steps for the fitv and now getting code 14 (iac) and my boost gage is at -20 psi so i looked and sprayed all lines no leaks but the fitv hole is not sucking at all and the iac 1 is sucking hard till warms up then normal .will the ecu make the iac work on start up if the fitv fails ,so not sure if i should get new iac or new fitv thanks for any help
Check for vacuum leaks, especially on the turbo components...
What if you have no idle air control valve, dunno if i have the Fit thing or not, my idle drops so low i have to rev it till it warms enough, i cant just crank my car and go one cuz i have turbo, but i cant even use auto timer cuz i have to press the gas till it warms, once it warms it idles perfect though. .......... i just am gonna adjust the hard stop on my TB though lol. it should be fine to do that right. a lot easier than figuring out why the car wouldnt even run with the IACV on there, and kept throwing engine lights, thats what the dude that worked on the car for the kid that had it before me so they just got rid of the iacv. i havent looked at it in to see if the fit is there or not. will adjusting my hard stop work best for me you think?
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Boosted D, Non Vtec 209whp 186ftlbs@5800.
This is my civic. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My civic, without me, is useless. Without my civic, I am useless.
so if i put a fit valve on then my car should idle fine when i crank it up because after it warms up it runs fine, or do i need an idle air control valve?
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Boosted D, Non Vtec 209whp 186ftlbs@5800.
This is my civic. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My civic, without me, is useless. Without my civic, I am useless.
ok i read your post.. it was full of great information! BUT i have an idle problem that we narrowed down to the fast idle control valve solenoid its not getting power some how but it does work when we stick the light tester in there and ground it out.. so my question to you is.. Can that turn the Check Engine light on? because the light turned on the same time the idle trouble started..
ok i have read the entire post but still unsure---my accord runs fine all of the time EXCEPT with the AC on and at idle...the idle bogs way down. without the AC everything is fine---hot or cold. should i still check the FIT and IAC? it has never stalled but today it went so low i was expecting it to die...but i turned the AC off and it was ok. Any suggestions? it is a 95 accord EX with 319K miles and original alternator too.. anyone else experience this?
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95 EX Coupe
Neuspeed drop
Altezza tails & clears
Polarg Bulbs
Real Philips HID (now it is)
AEM short ram intake
DIY - JDM headlights
Indiglo Guages
Llumar tint
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