found this by searching, confirms that it could be my switch
Newer Hondas ('94 and up) are prone to ignition switch failure. Earlier cars are getting old enough that simple wear and age are enough to begin causing problems. If the switch is failing, you may not hear any clicks at all from the Main Relay, and you would mistakenly think it's that. Other symptoms are similar to those of a failing Main Relay. There was a recall on ignition switches for certain years (1997 and up).
Here is the TSB on that recall.
A giveaway for a bad ignition switch is the behavior of the dashboard warning lights when the car stalls, or when the key is first turned to "II". If the switch is bad, the oil, brake, charge and other warning lights will NOT come on. A quick-and-dirty test that is intended to point up a switch that's going bad is this: Turn the key to the start position. As soon as the starter starts to turn, let go of the key, allowing it to snap back to the run position. If the instrument warning lights go out as the switch rotates back, the switch is bad.
The ignition switch actually consists of two parts: 1) The lock cylinder, and 2) the ignition switch itself, installed at the opposite end from the key, and held by two small Phillips screws. The images here are from the factory manual and are for the '91 Integra, but will hopefully be close enough for reference on later vehicles that still have non-chipped keys. Here is a page from the factory manual, showing a diagram of the ignition switch.
Make sure your "starting problem" isn't actually due to a worn key! Keys do wear, and when they do it can cause all sorts of odd problems that can be easily misdiagnosed as lock/switch problems. At the very least, it's a good idea to get a new key made from a good original master, or order a new one from the dealer before tearing your steering column apart.
A too-heavy keychain can cause the switch to rotate ever so slightly, just enough to kill the power. Try removing the ignition key from your keyring so there's nothing dangling, then see if the stalling still happens.
If you've already tried these or your key is still good, keep reading...
E. Meyer tells how know if your ignition switch is bad:
The surest way is to take it off and pop it open. The burned contacts are a
dead give away. It is screwed to the back of the ignition key cylinder with
two small Phillips screws. The other end of the cable plugs into the fuse
When it is starting to fail, the "run" contact will overheat and open,
causing the car to stall. A usual symptom is the dash will also go dark
when it dies (no warning lights, no shift indicator, nothing). Attempts to
restart usually result in the engine starting and running while you hold the
key in "start" and it immediately shuts down as soon as you release the key.
Wait five or ten minutes for the switch to cool down and it will start and
run normally until the "run" contacts overheat again. The cycle gets more
frequent as time passes, until it just won't run at all.
Some people have reported they can get it to run for a while by holding the
key between "start" and "run" - try to find the sweet spot where it [the engine] keeps
running, but the starter doesn't.
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