Door Striker Ripping from Jamb? - Honda Forum / Acura Forum

sprayfe · 08-01-2008, 09:22 PM

Anyone else have this kind of problem, or better yet know of any solutions?
Basically the door jamb metal has failed and is allow the striker to bend and tear its way out of the door jamb?
Thanks for any and all help,
Rafe

solman · 08-04-2008, 10:08 PM

never seen that problem before. Is it a wrecked car? any pics?

Food Stamp · 08-06-2008, 08:37 PM

Both my sols have had the rust in that same spot probally will fail sooner or later wich would suck

miguel6632 · 08-06-2008, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Food Stamp

Both my sols have had the rust in that same spot probally will fail sooner or later wich would suck

mine too they resanded mine and painted it hopefully ill protect it a little bit more

solman · 08-07-2008, 08:14 AM

I never saw this problem before. Maybe it from a leaking top

mastermind_jk · 08-07-2008, 08:04 PM

The only solution I know of is to hit up suicidedoors.com and get a new stricker and lock plate set. The new stricker is about a 1/2" round and the new lock fits the door. Of course this requires welding as you would have to cut out the old lock and stricker. My buddy did this on his s10 when he did suicide doors and they came out clean. This is the only fix I know.

McSporster · 08-11-2008, 06:39 PM

Mine is loose, too...but, it did have a front end collision a while back and probably pushed the door back pretty hard. It looks as if the spotwelds are broken. ...still functions OK, but likely will get worse if nothing is done. Does anyone know if there's any way to get access to the rear (inside) of that area? Mc

mastermind_jk · 08-11-2008, 08:15 PM

With out cutting from the outside? The black panel below the speaker panel has a a hole behine it but I dont know how much access you'll get.

McSporster · 08-12-2008, 05:34 AM

Thanks. I'll dig into it and post any useable info. Mc

McSporster · 08-13-2008, 07:22 PM

Pulled the adjustable striker off today, ground off the paint and surface rust to find very thin metal with cracks. This was about ready to come apart! We were able to weld up the cracks and, then, cut/weld in place a 1/16" steel plate approx. 2.5" X 5" on the outside as a reinforcement. ...still have to do a little bondo work on the edges and paint, but it looks good, will be hardly noticeable and should last longer than the car (...or, me). ...now, I noticed that the other side has a couple of small cracks around one of the spot welds, so I'll tackle that next. This is apparently a weak point for this neat little car. Mc

nevermnd · 08-19-2008, 05:16 PM

I'm having the same issue on the driver's side of a '96 I just bought. Do you have any pictures of the final result of your fix you could share McSporster ? I am thinking of going a similar route.

McSporster · 08-19-2008, 05:33 PM

...may take a few days, but I'll try to get a photo or two for you. It seems to me to be the only lasting solution. Frankly, I'm surprised at just how little metal there is there with no real reinforcement -- a cost cutting design flaw IMOH. Mc

nevermnd · 08-20-2008, 05:20 AM

Thanks Mc. Particularly what I am wondering is if you meant that you removed the striker from plate and then reattached it on top of your new mounting plate, or if you left it in place and instead made a cut out for the striker simply making a supporting plate that goes around it... Is there anything holding it the OEM striker plate to the frame behind there ? Or is it just those couple of spot welds ? It does seem like a strangely weak way to put together a structural point on the body, esp considering the metal even on the side panels seems thicker than right there in the jamb....

McSporster · 08-20-2008, 06:21 AM

I removed the striker (2 large screws) and lightly ground the area...actually discovered that there had been some welding of cracks there before, and that a couple had reoccured. I ground the surface rust off, welded the cracks again and then cut the steel plate approx. 2" X 5" with holes for the mounting screws large enough so that the adjustment movement could still be made in all directions. Then, welded the plate on with spots around the circumference and rosettes at six places to ensure that it's well connected. As the plate is only approx. 1/16" thick I believe that some good work with bondo and painting will make it virtually disappear and I'm thinking that it will be a permanent fix. ...hope that makes sense? Let me know if I can clarify (...and, sorry for no photo yet -- I'm much better at auto repair than I am at "computer stuff"

). Mc

nevermnd · 08-21-2008, 03:57 AM

That's quite alright. I removed the striker plates and sanded down the sides yesterday; Aside from the spot welds, the support plate for the striker behind the outside body appears to be free floating ? So a word of caution to anyone just pulling the screws out-- if far gone enough the plate might just fall in all together. Aside from your mention I noticed at the salvage yard the other day the same issue on a couple of other del sol's there. I'm a little surprised that Honda never issued some sort of recall for this sort of thing as it does seem like a weak spot and something of a safety issue. Thanks for the info Mc.