I recently blew my motor and got a great deal on a D16 block with eagle rods, nitrate coated 11.5:1 pistons, all ARP hardware, milled .40 over, and less than 5,000 miles (after this rebuild). I need to get my car running so i'm gonna put it in this weekend. I plan on going turbo this summer but wanted to stay NA and work on the body + stuff until then.
My questions are:
1. What mods should I do for this TEMPORARY all-motor build (injectors, fuel pump, tune, etc)?
2. If I ran the motor as is with no mods, will it hurt the motor (b/c of the higher CR and no tune)?
3. When I do go turbo should I swap out the pistons for a lower CR (like perhaps the stock pistons from my blown jdm ZC)? or just save the time + turbo her as is?
BTW: only mods I have are H/I/2 in exhaust and LS throttle body. Thx SH.
if there is no tune, you will benefit from a tune and a nice free flowing intake/header/exhaust combo. the stock injectors and pump are fine.
if you do want to go turbo, it would be wise to run lower compression. It can be done with that high compression, but it will take a lot more to tune, and more maintenance, etc.
1) Just leave it stock, if you're planning on going F/I then all the money you put into mods will be worthless as they will have to go when you turbo.
2) I'd tune
3) I wouldn't turbo her as is because your engine would be missing a lot of parts because you would have to loose the header, the intake...ect. But yes, if I were you I'd switch out the pistons.
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If it already has a potent n/a platform then I'd just go with that. Because you will have to change to lower compression pistons unless you were running 110 octane gas for a DD. with the high comp. pistons.
Just get a good tune and some free flowing shit like they said and you should be alright.
There is an all motor section also, I'd look there for answers also.
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you should probably do something about that CR. 11.5:1 is high for a turbo setup. Consider a thicker HG or plan to run low boost w/intercooler.
There are a few small mods you could do :
- bigger exhaust (at least 2.25, better w/2.5 for turbo).
- Intake manifold like an edelbrock.
- Oil cooler setup
- Consider larger aftermarket oil pan for more oil/cooling capacity
- Aftermarket aluminum radiator
Consider water injection as well. If you keep the higher CR, then you will need to go the extra mile for reliability (and cooling) upgrades to keep things safe.
if you already have a platform for NA i would just keep it that way. sounds like you wanna start modding your car right now, so put that money to a good NA header, exhaust, and intake manifold.
there aren't too many guys on this forum with NA d-series motors. i would check out www.d-series.org for some good tips on NA builds.
If you are set on turbo invest in some 9:1 or 9.5:1 pistons once you turbo that away you can take full potential of the turbo and its capabilities and dont have to worry about high compression and cooling issues.
If you are set on turbo invest in some 9:1 or 9.5:1 pistons once you turbo that away you can take full potential of the turbo and its capabilities and dont have to worry about high compression and cooling issues.
I'm a big fan of higher compression and lower boost. You want to use the least amount of boost possible to reach your goal. So instead of 9:1 w/8psi, I'd rather run 10:1 w/6psi.
I'm a big fan of higher compression and lower boost. You want to use the least amount of boost possible to reach your goal. So instead of 9:1 w/8psi, I'd rather run 10:1 w/6psi.
I'm a big fan of higher compression and lower boost. You want to use the least amount of boost possible to reach your goal. So instead of 9:1 w/8psi, I'd rather run 10:1 w/6psi.
yea that makes alot more sense so in his case it would be easier to just get a thicker head gasket to drop the c/r which would save him some bank.
Your setup would be good for N2O, and you should get yourself setup for tuning either way. With a radical all-motor cam, retarding the timing to compensate for lower octane becomes a little less critical, but if you are all stock on top end then tuning would be advisable.
I'm not a proponent of using thick headgaskets to lower compression. It's like putting a bunch of shims between the head and block to compensate for using the wrong pistons. Two wrongs don't make a right, the old addage says. I know it's more expensive and difficult to install new pistons than to toss a headgasket on, but it's the right way. You can probably sell the high compression ones to get back some of the money you spend on new slugs.
Lifting the head basically forces you to use a gear to set your cam timing back to 0 as a baseline. Also it effectively alters your combustion chamber size/shape (in a bad way). Since you have a Y8 it has nice quench pads which help concentrate the combustion into the center of the chamber where it belongs, thick headgasket will open up that area sort of voiding their effect. And... domed pistons aren't optimum for combustion efficiency either, a flat top or slight dish keeps the power towards the center rather than deflecting it to the cylinder walls.
All motor D... for now
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