My room mate has a 97 Civic EX auto (d16y8). She was driving home today and the motor started spraying oil out of the block onto the exhaust manifold. My first question is, what would cause the block to crack?
Second is, which blocks out there can I use to replace this one. Of course the ideal situation would be to swap the entire motor/trans out for a better one, but the funds just aren't there. We might end up doing a long block, but probably no more than that.
Mods: full tsudo catback exhaust,cai,,17inch black rims with polished lip, Eibach "sportline" lowering springs, type r headlights, rockford fosgate "power" 6.5's & 6/9's, pioneer deck, t2 15" Subwoofer powered by fosgate T15004 amplifier, dc sports 4-2-1 headers, no cat
any d series. do you hava a cai by any chance or low on oil
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2000 HX
DC 4-2-1 headers
AEM CAI
2.25 cat back
Eibach Sportlines
SKunk 2 front camber
front upper strut bar
Mods: full tsudo catback exhaust,cai,,17inch black rims with polished lip, Eibach "sportline" lowering springs, type r headlights, rockford fosgate "power" 6.5's & 6/9's, pioneer deck, t2 15" Subwoofer powered by fosgate T15004 amplifier, dc sports 4-2-1 headers, no cat
the reason i asked is because i had a cold air and one day i sucked up water causing it to throw a rod through the block. low oil can cause you to throw a rod also.
__________________
2000 HX
DC 4-2-1 headers
AEM CAI
2.25 cat back
Eibach Sportlines
SKunk 2 front camber
front upper strut bar
the reason i asked is because i had a cold air and one day i sucked up water causing it to throw a rod through the block. low oil can cause you to throw a rod also.
I'm startin to think it has a thrown rod too, whatever the cause may have been. Now the search for a new block...
Mods: H&R sports, koni yellows, enkei 15's, y8 IM, apexi N1 catback, redded out tails, black housing heads, DIY front grill, all moldings painted, DcSport short shifter, type-r shift knob, makeshift AEM SRI, rear si sway bar, cross/slotted front rotors
yup any block will do, but i'd stay with the y8 if possible.
yup any block will do, but i'd stay with the y8 if possible.
Unfortunately that's the one d series block I'm having a hard time finding...
I've seen plenty of d15, z6, zc, y7 (which I think is the same as the z6 but I'm not sure) and even a few d17, but no y8.
Since her car is vtec, would there be any problems using a non-vtec block? I know H23 vtec requires a huge amount of work to make functional, but not so sure on the d series engines...
Maybe somebody in here can point me to a y8 short/long block, or even has one laying around they wanna part with....
Mods: H&R sports, koni yellows, enkei 15's, y8 IM, apexi N1 catback, redded out tails, black housing heads, DIY front grill, all moldings painted, DcSport short shifter, type-r shift knob, makeshift AEM SRI, rear si sway bar, cross/slotted front rotors
it was just a recomendation. the y7 block will do just fine. you only have to remove the oil jet from the center coolant passage (just like on a mini-me) and you good to go.
it was just a recomendation. the y7 block will do just fine. you only have to remove the oil jet from the center coolant passage (just like on a mini-me) and you good to go.
Alright, I'll keep an eye out for that one...I'd like to at least keep it a d16 if possible. Don't wanna go to a d15 very bad, d17 might be kinda cool if it worked, but they're more money
any 92-00 d-block will work, but there will be some quirks to work out. like getting a block that has no knock sensor and having to use an ecu that requires one.
also, if emissions are strict where you live, it will be limited to newer blocks than the car only..
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You should be able to get a y7 block for cheap. Don't pay more than $300 for it (plus shipping if it's being shipped) because NOBODY buys those motors unless it's either an emergency (like your case) or it's all they can afford and their old motor is on the way out.
i wuz a half quart low in my 90 accord and racied a motor cycle on the freeway doing 130 and it started clicking i pulled over checked the oil and notting wuz the opend the oil port and it wuz smoking like snoop dogg lol did no put it throw the block it still starts up and clicks real bad but bought a 92 accord ex and swaped a head that wuz fucked up on that car. mayb your oil pump wuz cluged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96civichx
i wuz a half quart low in my 90 accord and racied a motor cycle on the freeway doing 130 and it started clicking i pulled over checked the oil and notting wuz the opend the oil port and it wuz smoking like snoop dogg lol did no put it throw the block it still starts up and clicks real bad but bought a 92 accord ex and swaped a head that wuz fucked up on that car. mayb your oil pump wuz cluged
English please... and use sentences.
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Unless your 88-91 CIvic/CRX is RHD and the 4&5 letters in your VIN are "EF", you DONT have a EF.
You should be able to get a y7 block for cheap. Don't pay more than $300 for it (plus shipping if it's being shipped) because NOBODY buys those motors unless it's either an emergency (like your case) or it's all they can afford and their old motor is on the way out.
That's what I'd do in your position.
well the insurance company seems convinced from her description of the damage that the block cracking was related to her rear ending somebody recently. I'm pretty sure it's not, but it's their call. If they decide the engine is cause of the wreck then the car will be totalled.
any 92-00 d-block will work, but there will be some quirks to work out. like getting a block that has no knock sensor and having to use an ecu that requires one.
also, if emissions are strict where you live, it will be limited to newer blocks than the car only..
Best to stick with a 96-00 block that way you are guaranteed to get a 1.6L block (some 92-95 were 1.5L), and you don't have to deal with different wiring issues that will arise by trying to use a 92-95 block in a 96-00 chassis. Best to get a d16y8/ex block, but a d16y7/dx/lx block will work as well. If going d16y7 then you will essentially end up with a mini-me.
