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D series Turbo Kit

9K views 50 replies 6 participants last post by  EnJoiThaRex 
#1 ·
I did some research, not just on here but on other forums and it seems a lot of people are going with the ebay turbo kits and really do not have any issues. Yes I know its not a Greddy or a RevHard name brand but why the change to go with those? Please don't :bash me for bringing this up but I am curious why more and more people go that route. Are they better then they used to be. I know ss autochrome used to be cheap and waiting to :bomb, is that still true as well? The majority on this forum go the build your own route. But check on d16turbo or one of those forums and browse through the discussions.
 
#3 ·
When what goes wrong? It seems the turbo that you receive and the intercooler is actually of better quality then previous ones sold. Even if the turbo stops spooling what could or would occur? The motor would still receive / suck in air, correct? I would not go with an ebay injectors or fuel pump though.
 
#4 ·
This could happen. (3:00)





You got to think a turbo is spinning at roughly 80,000RPM
Cheap turbos are exactally what they say CHEAP for a reason.
They get a real turbo like a Garret and strip it copy it but use cheap low grade iron/cast & parts.

Have a read of this. . .
The OFFICIAL Ebay Turbo "Kit" Thread - Beyond.ca - Car Forums
 
#5 ·
Very interesting... thanks for the videos

Its hard to justify the money for a Turbo as there are so many on the market but again where is a DD where it will last and be great? Ebay always seems cheap to me but again just wanted to make sure after reading so many posts about it. What are some options people use for DD cars not trying to push the max? Turbonetics, Garret, Greddy, RevHard, Precision?

And then you have ball bearing, etc.
 
#7 ·
Its very easy to justify money when going with a turbo. Like D14 said, there is a lot of load, temperature fluxuations, ect. and a good tried and tested turbo will hold up, especially if you want a DD. However, I will say that a turbo setup on your civic won't be as reliable as keeping it N/A, but if your not too concerned about that, and want a fun daily, your on the right track, but in order to keep it on the road and running more than its on jacks, your going to need to invest in quality parts. With cars, you get what you pay for, nearly all the time.
 
#6 ·
Garret unit every time simply because they are tried and tested and have big after market parts potential, Also rebuild costs are just about set in stone so you wont get any shocks when it needs rebuilt.
Go to a breakers yard find a Saab 93/9000 or a 5 cylinder Volvo turbo and take the turbo off, make sure it spins free and the shaft doesn't move about too much, use that to mock up and to run for a while then later down the line
take it to a good garret center and you tell them exactly what you want ie power, quick spool, your engine size and they will remanufacture it to your specs, Ball bearings, Billet turbines (hearing very good things about these)
The reason why i say Saab units because old men normally drive Saab's (wont be flogged) and most are "low output" which means low boost so they don't get heavy work and wear a lot better and they are designed for 2 liter(ish) engines so should be perfect for your car.
90% of turbo dealers are working on exchange basis, so the price you see is normally exchange price, if you wanna buy it out right you can double+ the prices.
 
#8 ·
oh, and D14, we should be telling him to sell the civic and just pick up a turbo'd Volvo or Saab instead. They're better cars. :)

And no need to bother turbocharging it, it comes that way!
 
#10 ·
:(

oh, and D14, we should be telling him to sell the civic and just pick up a turbo'd Volvo or Saab instead. They're better cars. :)

And no need to bother turbocharging it, it comes that way!
:nod



It's the way forward,
Where else can you get 200bhp for £500 :dunno:
 
#12 ·
hey, if your like me you get crafty, and DIY a lot of your shit. Also, volvo's have more aftermarket than Saab's, but either way, there cool cars.
 
#17 ·
Wow my thread went a little far on to page 2...lol

In anycase let me retract. I have a 2010 VW CC which is boosted stock :). I would like to have the Civic be a great weekend beater to have fun in but I do want it reliable. I still need to do a compression test on the 130K motor to see as a baseline what I am looking at but so far the motor seems pretty solid. If that turns ok I was researching these turbo trims:
T3/T4 T042 50/63
T3 .42/.48

This is where I become confused in choosing the right one. It seems the T3 is a popular model of choice for the civic I am just not sure of the trim. Those trims I listed did have some motor work done to the D16 so they might be a bad choice.

Thanks
 
#19 ·
Never seen a t25g...

Is the 14B the same as a TD05. I did see a few D16's with those.

Why do you suggest them over a T3?
 
#20 ·
Never seen a t25g...

Is the 14B the same as a TD05. I did see a few D16's with those.

Why do you suggest them over a T3?
because you aren't aiming for 350whp....and a t25g/14b are cheaper more responsive and just as durable... a t25g is stock on nissan sr20det motors, and a 14b is a 1st gen eclipse turbo...both of which will take a civic to the 280whp range and be spooling much sooner on such a tiny motor...

and you need to do more research because you talk about "trim" way too much like it really means anything
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
I guess thats my point or question is how much then does the trim affect the turbo itself? Is there a general rule that one should apply when picking a turbo for a stock D16 vs a D16 that has a different compression over stock and is fully built? If so how do you do this?
 
#33 ·
You could aslways upgrade to a 16g. Its bigger than a disco potato aka GT2860RS.

Idk about housing size on the compressor, but the compressor wheel is about 10 mm and the turbine wheel is about 2mm bigger. Idk what the turbine housing A/R is becuase mitsu and garret use different ways of IDing them or maybe there is a way and im just missing it. But id say the spool characteristics were about the same.

It gets confusing but like i said it could give you an idea..
 
#34 ·
Not so much a VW guy, I like Hondas though or imports in general. Thanks for the comparison as the KA turbo's are generally easier to understand from a performance aspect so thanks for that.

So in the end are you saying a 14B but if I do motor work upgrade to a 16G? How do these numbers / letters work on these turbo's now that I understand the KA turbo's?

Thanks
 
#37 ·
It all depends on your motor build. And if your not sure. Go w/ the GT2860RS like marques stated. Its a turbo thats good for smaller discplacement motors.

All of these are better than the 14b but i just cant afford a GT2860RS, lol
 
#36 ·
I will need to research that one. Is it pretty efficient for a stock D16 or is meant for something a bit bigger / stronger? I would like to hit 200 whp on the stock motor, granted I said whp so add in another 15%.
 
#39 ·
Why or how is there 14b, 16g, and GT2860RS? How do these display what they turbo is?
 
#40 ·
14b = stock turbo for a first generation mitsubishi eclipse....engine = 4g63t

gt28rs/gt2860rs/disco potato= aftermarket turbo built by garrett.

gt28r = stock turbo for an s15 silvia/jdm 240sx

gt28 = s14 silvia turbo

t25g= s13 silvia turbo

16g is an old school evo turbo
 
#42 ·
Get this 1st Gen Eclipse Stock Turbocharger: eBay Motors (item 190408817250 end time Jul-23-10 13:16:03 PDT) send it away to be rebuilt tell the turbo guys what car it's for, what displacement and what you want it for etc and they will do all the working out and recommend. Then you have a brand new rebuilt unit to your specifications, you know who did it whats been done and it'll be guaranteed.
Problem solved :D

Then "someone" with a BMW :ninja buys this BMW 745I TURBO TURBOCHARGER MANIFOLD E23 E24 E9 E32 M30: eBay Motors (item 120592725846 end time Jul-13-10 11:13:41 PDT) and attacks his BMW with a dirty big fan!
 
#44 ·
I guess next question is who does rebuilds and what is the cost? Am I looking at $700? More? Less?
 
#45 ·
Nope It was designed back in the 80/90's when they messed about with putting turbo chargers on all sorts, this manifold was like an old fashioned kit like our turbo technics kits.
Imagine the man that walks into a BMW dealer ship drives round the corner and gets it turbo's back in the 80's by American Tuners Callaway This looks like one of the original manifolds . . .
Callaway was the King of the 80's they were turoing all sorts!
They bult cars like these . .

Rob's Callaway Turbo 535i




Callaway Turbo System Connecticut were the Bomb!
You lot must of heard of them?
 
#47 ·
Rebuilds can get expensive. Some people say the CHRA needs to be balanced, others say only when needed, and others just dont care..

I went to driftmotion.com which is a reputable company, or so they say, and they told me $500 to rebuild my $50 turbo, but for another $100 or so they upgrade the comp wheel as well. So its all in perspective. If you can get a 1k dollar turbo for cheap, then sure maybe send it out for a rebuild would be worth it.
 
#49 ·
Yeah they told me (driftmotion), basically you send them your core and they send you a brand new 1 i guess..I forgot what the difference was in pricing with or w/o the core, it is included in the site.

Welcome to Driftmotion! w/ core ~650.00

Turbo & Accessories - Toyota CT26 Turbo Upgrade 7MGTE & 3SGTE with Warranty! ~w/core700 1000.00 new

Even though he was telling me w/ the TS entry stock compressor wheel (46 trim I think) on a 3sGTE they were getting over 300hp :number1, i figure why not. Though other owners are saying different...:ninja. But ive heard alot of good things about these guys at driftmotion. Sry it seems likes its just for supras though

You can find knock offs of any turbo but you get what you pay for. I mean small and big 16gs can be as high as 6 or 700. But knockoffs can be around 2 or 300.
 
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