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03-24-2008, 08:11 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Brand Spanking Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Car:
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D15b7 Just a little mod!
Hey guys just wondering if anyone can help me out with a small thing here.
Basically I just wanna get like 10 to 15 more horses out of it cheap so that I'm not crawling up the hills in AZ at 80 and by the way is anyone an expert at tearing out those damn governors Im stuck at 117. Just want to get it up to 120 or so. Not for racing purposes. Just as my still same daily. Any Suggestions??
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03-24-2008, 08:38 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 11,565
Car: 98 Civic Ex Coupe
Mods:
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1. Welcome to the site
2. You aren't going to get 10-15hp for cheap out of a d15b7. Do maintenance, check plugs/filter, change fluids and just keep it running smoothly. Consider a reground cam.
3. You've got no business doing 117 on a public road.
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03-24-2008, 08:15 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Brand Spanking Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Car:
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arizona desert is not a far fetched story
not to be rude or condescending I do it safely never not.
And everythings good but I think there might be a slight thing with the gearing cause unless i shift manually meaning its an auto I get nothing but donwannago then go after about 4grand tach
so just trrying to figure out how to fix and get a little more outta her
got well over 230 thous miles so not gonna stretch it too far
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03-24-2008, 09:02 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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SH Virus
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 4,555
Car: 2004 Explorer, '96 Integra SE *DEAD*, 1998 Civic DX Boosted @ 14psi
Mods: fuggin' your mom.
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you're doing this w/ an auto?
A stock D15?
Why? Why do you feel the need to go so fast, and better yet, why waste your time holding the throttle open for 15 seconds just to reach 98mph?
Stop it now.
Like Kommon said. Work on the car, do the maintenance, stop endangering other people. And enjoy the car for what it was made for...safety, good gas mileage, and reliability.
__________________
MEMORIZE THIS NOOBS
Fast+Cheap=Not Reliable
Cheap+Reliable=Not Fast
Fast+Reliable=Not Cheap
4 Doors are the best!!
O-tay. Sleeper Civic 2.0 under construction
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03-24-2008, 10:18 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Lifeless Ninja
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 7,140
Car: 98 Civic DX
Mods: H&R sports, koni yellows, enkei 15's, y8 IM, apexi N1 catback, redded out tails, black housing heads, DIY front grill, all moldings painted, DcSport short shifter, type-r shift knob, makeshift AEM SRI, rear si sway bar, cross/slotted front rotors
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I agree with them. I would make sure the car stays running more so than try and get more out of it. Your not gonna make an auto do much performance wise anyway. Even with I/H/E you'd be lucky to get 5whp (Manual or auto). Either way, anything of what we say couldn't stop you from doing whatever you want. Getting what you can out of your car is half the fun the rest of driving it.
I didnt check to see what mods you have done, but have you thought about doing suspension? Thats will make your car feel much more fun to drive everyday even with an auto.
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03-24-2008, 10:29 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NC
Posts: 11,565
Car: 98 Civic Ex Coupe
Mods:
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I failed to mention that if you have a manual tranny, the best performance mod you can do is a d16z6 transmission. And don't drive so fast on the street. Plenty of tracks to do that on.
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03-26-2008, 12:21 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Noob
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 50
Car: 2000 Civic EX
Mods: Gearspeed LSD tranny, Clutchmaster Stage3 Fidanza, solid mounts, header, full exhaust, high-flow cat, intake, Drag DR-11s, cross-drilled and slotted rotors, SPC suspension pieces, strut bar, 2" drop, built head, Skunk2 intake manifold, AEM fuel rail and FPR, Hondata S200
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I've got to agree. I live in AZ and even in the desert its stupid to be driving that fast. There's too much dust on everything, too many rocks everywhere, too many wild animals running around.
As for power, there's no cheap easy way to upgrade that car, they said it. Hell, I've got my old motor that just needs a good machining and rebuild. If you really want to make more power you're gonna have to put some money into your car. I'll give you the motor for cheap. It's perfect for a stroker kit
__________________
Mazda/Hyundai GOLD MASTER Tech in Tucson
Got me the SLWCVC
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03-26-2008, 02:48 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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SuperHonda Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: nj
Posts: 190
Car: 2000 civic ex 2dr
Mods:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo060
you're doing this w/ an auto?
A stock D15?
Why? Why do you feel the need to go so fast, and better yet, why waste your time holding the throttle open for 15 seconds just to reach 98mph?
Stop it now.
Like Kommon said. Work on the car, do the maintenance, stop endangering other people. And enjoy the car for what it was made for...safety, good gas mileage, and reliability.
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totally read my mind 
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03-26-2008, 04:10 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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SuperHonda Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 163
Car: 90 crx
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well it doesnt matter what small mods you do, your gonna struggle to notice them with an auto.
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06-28-2008, 10:12 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Noob
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 27
Car: 1993 civic
Mods: short ram intake, 4-2-1 header, cat back, strut bar.
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i agree with most but i would check the timing. Mine was very sluggish after my swap(replacement swap d15b7) Anyways, after changing plugs, wires, cleaning injectors, religious oil changes, fuel filter, and switching to midgrade I was kind of upset after it still ran rough. So the last thing I tried was timing. A buddy and me checked it and it was 6 degrees retarded. So if I'm not mistaken base timing is 16 and since that it doesn't bog down and i can go up hills much easier. I can't promise anything but its working out well for me.
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06-28-2008, 02:50 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Black Cloud
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: baton rouge, LA
Posts: 13,088
Car: '06 4runner, '01 F350, '83 cj7, '90 DA6 (x2)
Mods: yes, please.
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as mentioned by everyone else, slow the fuck down on public roads. i think what you were trying to say is that you only go 117 safely. not possible when at any second you could come up on someone doing 30mph or someone could turn out in front of you thinking you're traveling at a normal speed. as also mentioned, take that kind of shit to the track man. that's the only place you can't be arrested for it, not to mention you're a lot less likely to kill somebody or yourself.
__________________
-clay long www.myspace.com/mrlongtoyou
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Originally Posted by B-rex;
Swap a motor from a s2k in that 240 then you will have a beast!!!
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07-17-2008, 11:45 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Vermont
Posts: 4,839
Car: 95 eg6 3d
Mods:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidsnake6844
arizona desert is not a far fetched story
not to be rude or condescending I do it safely never not.
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i smell an oxymoron 
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09-15-2008, 02:06 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Noob
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 89
Car: 95 civic dx coupe
Mods: fresh I/H/E fresh built d15b7 accel 8mm wires throttle body spacer DSS racing axles short shifter autometer tach coilovers
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with a d15b7, your not going to want to go above 100 mph, or you risk early engine/transmission damage. in order to maximize the ability to access the power from a 1.5 liter, modded or stock, shorter gears have to be used. this means that your top speed will be reduced. with a 5 speed or auto tranny on a 1.5, going 120mph would have you way up in the mid 6000's or maybe higher (without a 6th gear to save you so u can drop the revs a little lower and cruise) and thats on a dx transmission! it would be worse with an ex/si. the faster you go, the more wind resistance that builds up, which means a lot more crap for your 1.5 to compensate for, and the faster you go, the worse it gets, and the harder it is for the engine to make power. going full throttle/top speed and hovering @ the shift point for prolonged periods of time is both stupid and impractical unless you have a built bottom end and some very well designed coated pistons built strictly for high revving N/A applications, and even then its still unsmart. only formula spec built racing engines are designed to handle prolonged rev times like those, but they too will wear out, just not as quick as a stock engine build under same conditions, but are built to at least tolerate a few top speed burns through long straights. do that enough times with your stock d and soon you'll be on here asking us whats the best engine swap. so just take it easy and keep it within a logical speed with respect to your current engine setup.
the d15b7 block can be used to build an engine with a compression of 11:1 using all oem parts. these would include a fresh d15b7 block, fresh d16y8 head, d16y8 head gasket (not 2 layer), i/h/e, and light flywheel... if its and EG then keep or use better obd1 compatible injectors, like the 88-95 si/ex (a6, z6) or 4age or 5mge oem toyota will work... but the engine MUST be tuned via wide band and standalone and the ecu rev limit will have to be pushed up another 1000. it also needs to be cooled by a proper spec oil cooler system, proper racing grade oil that resists dilution, separation and burn-off @ high rpm and a better radiator + stronger hoses are recommended.
match this engine in your dx (or just sell it and buy a manual) with an si/ex tranny, an ebay stage 1 or 2 clutch, a nice lowered suspension and slotted/drilled front rotors with new pads and now you have a decent 150 h/p-ish dx setup that will handle well enough, be quick, and last longer b/c the engine internals are cooled to help compensate, as long as it isnt drag raced and the power is used responsibly, tactfully and effectively. the power would be good for grip driving on hilly courses, auto-x and zippy town/county driving. but i agree with the other guys on this thread, leave it alone and learn the car through the suspension and modify that first, or at least get a manual tranny swapped.. then you'll have a better idea of where your @ and where you need the extra power. just don't abuse it 
Last edited by bTAK : 09-15-2008 at 02:17 AM.
Reason: tYp0z
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09-15-2008, 04:49 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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SH Silver
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: AZ
Posts: 208
Car: 1999 Trans Am
Mods: Lid, Cutout, 4.10s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bTAK
with a d15b7, your not going to want to go above 100 mph, or you risk early engine/transmission damage. in order to maximize the ability to access the power from a 1.5 liter, modded or stock, shorter gears have to be used. this means that your top speed will be reduced. with a 5 speed or auto tranny on a 1.5, going 120mph would have you way up in the mid 6000's or maybe higher (without a 6th gear to save you so u can drop the revs a little lower and cruise) and thats on a dx transmission! it would be worse with an ex/si. the faster you go, the more wind resistance that builds up, which means a lot more crap for your 1.5 to compensate for, and the faster you go, the worse it gets, and the harder it is for the engine to make power. going full throttle/top speed and hovering @ the shift point for prolonged periods of time is both stupid and impractical unless you have a built bottom end and some very well designed coated pistons built strictly for high revving N/A applications, and even then its still unsmart. only formula spec built racing engines are designed to handle prolonged rev times like those, but they too will wear out, just not as quick as a stock engine build under same conditions, but are built to at least tolerate a few top speed burns through long straights. do that enough times with your stock d and soon you'll be on here asking us whats the best engine swap. so just take it easy and keep it within a logical speed with respect to your current engine setup.
the d15b7 block can be used to build an engine with a compression of 11:1 using all oem parts. these would include a fresh d15b7 block, fresh d16y8 head, d16y8 head gasket (not 2 layer), i/h/e, and light flywheel... if its and EG then keep or use better obd1 compatible injectors, like the 88-95 si/ex (a6, z6) or 4age or 5mge oem toyota will work... but the engine MUST be tuned via wide band and standalone and the ecu rev limit will have to be pushed up another 1000. it also needs to be cooled by a proper spec oil cooler system, proper racing grade oil that resists dilution, separation and burn-off @ high rpm and a better radiator + stronger hoses are recommended.
match this engine in your dx (or just sell it and buy a manual) with an si/ex tranny, an ebay stage 1 or 2 clutch, a nice lowered suspension and slotted/drilled front rotors with new pads and now you have a decent 150 h/p-ish dx setup that will handle well enough, be quick, and last longer b/c the engine internals are cooled to help compensate, as long as it isnt drag raced and the power is used responsibly, tactfully and effectively. the power would be good for grip driving on hilly courses, auto-x and zippy town/county driving. but i agree with the other guys on this thread, leave it alone and learn the car through the suspension and modify that first, or at least get a manual tranny swapped.. then you'll have a better idea of where your @ and where you need the extra power. just don't abuse it 
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Very nice. I agree with the above statement, and agreeing with everyone, just take care of it, and drive it. Enjoy the gas milage (trust me), and you will be good. I you want to go fast, do it at the track. If you want to go fast at the track, either build a car for the track (rwd, awd, fwd, 4, 6, 8 cyl ect ect), or build your car for reliablilty and slight performance. Just read around here, and learn.
__________________
1999 Trans Am m6-FTP lid||SLP 85mm MAF||Cutout||4.10s
c5 zo6 wheels: 18x9.5 in front and 18x10.5 back, nitto 555, 255 front/285 back. And still had to do BFH
Quote:
Originally Posted by cascadesys
Who knows, but who cares. You do an LS1 swap for yourself, not for resale. It would be like buying your girlfriend breast implants then dumping her...why do it if you aren't going to get to enjoy it?
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