Need advice on fixing my eg :(

[eg6momo]

I'm not all that familiar with major fixes when it comes to my 92 eg. I took my car to midas for a diagnostic and got the paper work back today. Of course, there's no way in hell I'm gonna have them do the work at all since their prices are ridiculous. Anywho, the problems are as follows:

1. Need new rotors and pads for the rear tires (can do myself)
2. Exhaust piping is split and holes in the muffler (can do myself)
3. Needs new cv shafts (is this the same as drive axle or half shaft??) for FL and FR (No idea how easy/hard this is)
4. Wheel bearing is loose (technicians comments said "Transmission bearing (im assuming this is the wheel bearing?) is about to fall out, car should not be driven" (No idea how easy/hard this is)

What'd I'd be wanting to know is what parts will I need, an estimated cost of these parts, and what tools I'll need to do so. I wanna try and keep this as inexpensive as possible since I don't have 1,500 bucks like midas wanted to do the repairs.

If anyone could help me out that'd be great, since I do love my eg to death. Thanks in advanced

[StreetRacin101]

Wheel bearings need to be pressed, so have a shop do them. The rest you can do yourself, but make sure to refill any lost fluids. And check all ball joints while your under there.

[weewoo]

Originally Posted by eg6momo

I'm not all that familiar with major fixes when it comes to my 92 eg. I took my car to midas for a diagnostic and got the paper work back today. Of course, there's no way in hell I'm gonna have them do the work at all since their prices are ridiculous. Anywho, the problems are as follows:

1. Need new rotors and pads for the rear tires (can do myself)
2. Exhaust piping is split and holes in the muffler (can do myself)
3. Needs new cv shafts (is this the same as drive axle or half shaft??) for FL and FR (No idea how easy/hard this is)
4. Wheel bearing is loose (technicians comments said "Transmission bearing (im assuming this is the wheel bearing?) is about to fall out, car should not be driven" (No idea how easy/hard this is)

What'd I'd be wanting to know is what parts will I need, an estimated cost of these parts, and what tools I'll need to do so. I wanna try and keep this as inexpensive as possible since I don't have 1,500 bucks like midas wanted to do the repairs.

If anyone could help me out that'd be great, since I do love my eg to death. Thanks in advanced

axles or what ever you want to call them are cake.
first off if you have your stock steel wheels this will be a little bit easier to remove the 32 mm axle nut.
take the center caps off. find a wheel chuck or something to stop the car from rolling forward or backwards. pull your parking brake up to lock the rear brakes. and loosen the front axle nuts. (32mm)
then after loosening them, remove the front wheels. remove your calipers away from the knuckle assembly, remove the upper control arm nut and always replace cotter pins with a new one.
never reuse a cotter pin. so you remove the upper control arm nuts. after that if the upper control arm is stuck on the knuckle , spray it with the penetrating oil and tap the knukcle until the control arm pops out.
after that you are able to bring the entire knuckle towards you to give you room to slide the axle out of the knuckle. after you slide it out of the knuckle , try to position the knuckel away so you have room to pop the axle out. use a prybar or a big wide flat head screw driver to pop the axle out of the transmission. careful not to damage anything. it shouldnt be alot of pressure to remove the axle from the trans side.
and basically there you have it . you removed it and the other side is the same. and like this guy up here said. then wheel bearings need to be pressed in.
if you are doing the axles and wheel bearings at the same time.
do the procedure i said first.
after your axles are removed. all you have to do is removed the lower ball joing nut and your knuckle is free.
good luck

[Punx122]

*Off Topic* Weewoo, did you ever get your car back?

[weewoo]

Originally Posted by Punx122

*Off Topic* Weewoo, did you ever get your car back?

yeah i got it back. police found it in linden stripped. my black housing headlights gone. jdm amber corners gone.
jdm amber foglights gone. engine harness gone, motor trans axles gone.
im surprised they didnt take the rear suspension.
(91 integra rear disc conversion) and my front and rear skunk2 camber kit.
they also put to huge dents on the tail gate and the left side and right side of the lic. plate. oh and they broke my glove compartment and took the box that encloses the blowermotor. and the dash is broken where the glove box sits flush with the dash on the passenger side.
so either i replace the dash or do some type of plastic repair.
sigh. im still sad.
i put so much time and effort into that car.
took almost 2 years to get it where i had it. and it took the crooks less than 15 minutes to take it.
unbeleiveable.
oh well.
im going Bseries now. so watch out for a build up thread.
oh and btw . i would take pics of the car. but stupid me left my digital camera on the passenger side front seat. and they took that too!@!!
so ill borrow my gf's and post some pics up.
keep and eye out

[klungemonger]

Originally Posted by eg6momo

1. Need new rotors and pads for the rear tires (can do myself)
2. Exhaust piping is split and holes in the muffler (can do myself)
3. Needs new cv shafts (is this the same as drive axle or half shaft??) for FL and FR (No idea how easy/hard this is)
4. Wheel bearing is loose (technicians comments said "Transmission bearing (im assuming this is the wheel bearing?) is about to fall out, car should not be driven" (No idea how easy/hard this is)

1. You can inspect those things yourself. First off, make sure you are not drum rear before buying rotors/pads. New rear rotors at Autozone run anywhere from $13-up each depending on brand/warranty. Pads run like $13-up for a set.

2. Go to an independent shop and just have new piping/muffler put on, should run you $150 or less and you might even get to increase piping size. Or get a cheap stainless off-brand from Ebay and put it on yourself.

3. CV shafts (yes these are the axles) run around $60-$80 each with core return at most auto parts places. I would inspect them yourself and determine whether or not they need replacing. If you see grease coming out of the rubber boots anywhere, if the boots are torn, if they make clunking sounds when you leave the line in first gear or if you wiggle them and they make clanks or clunks. You can generally hear a CV joint going bad, be careful they aren't just trying to scare you into paying for work you don't need. It's not crazy simple to do them but it can be done and if you're skillful you won't need to undo any suspension parts or the trans or anything to pull them.

4. There are bearings in the transmission, but the only ones they might diagnose are the ones right where the axles go in. If there is alot of wiggling of the axle right at the transmission, like it feels though it won't seat all the way into the trans that could be a bad trans bearing. Is it going to fall out of the trans? Don't know about that. If you don't have many tools and/or the skill to open and work on a trans, you can't do this job. You are actually better off selling it to someone who can fix it, and get yourself another used trans that's in better shape. They are cheap.

If he means the wheel bearing (at the outboard end of the axle) sure they go bad but it can't fall out. If you end up having to do a wheel bearing yes it needs to be pressed out/in but you might save money by doing the prep work...take the knuckle out of the car and bring it to a shop so you only have the press fee, no labor charge for them working on the car itself.