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Old 12-07-2007, 09:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I'd suggest a little light headwork. +1mm oversized intake valves, fresh valve job. crower valve springs. That will leave you with the option of a crower stg2 turbo cam. Shouldn't cost anymore than those d15 rods you wanted

Add an edelbrock intake manifold. Little things like that add up to make it easier to get the power you want without cranking up the boost way high.

You will be fine with rods from scat, tuner toys, or eagle... They are all basically the same rods.

I would advise against low compression pistons. If it were my motor, I would do 10:1 and boost it. Higher compression allows for lower boost. Most people go low compression with higher boost. They use the low cr pistons as a safety net for poor tuning. Everyone has their own opinion on this topic.

Also high cr will spool the turbo quicker and make the car feel better off the line.
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:32 AM   #32 (permalink)
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hey kommon would you advise doing anything with the throttle body?
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:02 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Maybe move to a 60mm. I wouldn't bother going with anything bigger than that. 60mm will still give good throttle response on a d16 and should work well with boost.
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Old 12-15-2007, 07:48 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I would advise against low compression pistons. If it were my motor, I would do 10:1 and boost it. Higher compression allows for lower boost. Most people go low compression with higher boost. They use the low cr pistons as a safety net for poor tuning. Everyone has their own opinion on this topic.

Also high cr will spool the turbo quicker and make the car feel better off the line.
I don't know what cr is referring to. But if I get really really good tuning, then what would be the point in getting Stock or High Compression pistons? There is no really point, cause what is the big deal with running more psi? I need an explanation on PSI and turbo and everything else or if you can give me a link to something similar, that would be awesome.
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Old 12-15-2007, 09:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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CR=Compression Ratio

Can't spoon feed everything to you. How do you think we learned what we know? Through research. There are THOUSANDS of links on Google alone that will answer any question you could EVER have about your turbo set-up.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:43 AM   #36 (permalink)
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CR=Compression Ratio

Can't spoon feed everything to you. How do you think we learned what we know? Through research. There are THOUSANDS of links on Google alone that will answer any question you could EVER have about your turbo set-up.
Thanks.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:14 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Just some advice and it comes in tea spoon amounts I dont post much. Dont pay someone to built your motor it goes together the same way it came apart. The money you save on doing it your self will help you pay for about $2500 in shit you need. Or pay someone to build it pay their rent then bitch when it blows up and its still your problem.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:24 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by all-mote View Post
Just some advice and it comes in tea spoon amounts I dont post much. Dont pay someone to built your motor it goes together the same way it came apart. The money you save on doing it your self will help you pay for about $2500 in shit you need. Or pay someone to build it pay their rent then bitch when it blows up and its still your problem.
This is useless information, to me. Sorry
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:43 PM   #39 (permalink)
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depends on your budget, can you do it yes..... will you pay a lot of money yes, do you have to work on the head,.........fuck yes if they told you no its not a reliable shop or they only do OEM work. you need retainers, valves, springs, guides, everything, if you want to put 20psi on that motor google bisimoto, im gettin the 7200$ full build, if you are only doin it to it cuz you have the motor it will be lots cheaper to get a d16 of some kind and just swap it, if you arent buildin this motor just to say that you did, dont do it swap it with anything newer.a d16a6 even those are hella cheap i hear. , dont make psi goals, 20 psi wont blow up the motor unless its tuned cuz if it is ur gonna be near 300hp at 20psi unless you completely build the motor and if you dont sleeve its iffy around 300hp 350hp on stock sleeves i hear., and if you dont tune it its gonna run worse than it did stock, and probley detonate and blow too. as for 5-6 lbs, .....bolonga... im at 12.24 the only problem i have is my stock clutch. u need to think of what hp you want, and dont say 600 cuz you wont get 600 on this motor without about 50psi lol. search Bisimoto.... not to mention you are gonna have to get LSD, clutch, all type of shit. u could have bought a lot of shit probley about 4 jdm swaps by the time you get the d15 where you want it. only reason im doin it is cuz i want to.lots of ppl say you cant push this and that on this motor but i already roasted an h22 swap with mine. which he wasnt turbo'd or anything just h22 I/H/E, but he didnt think my engine was about to do shit on boost cuz its d15. and if you are gonna boost no matter what anyone tells you, get an adj cam gear, and skunk2 intake mani. people told me i didnt need it, but i beg to differ since i gained 50 fuckin hp at 6200hp, and got all the choppyness outta the power band with 4 deg. +. if you want to spend all the cash to do it just to get respect from dohc and all other ppl, then go to bisimoto, get the 7200 full build, it comes with everything, head work, custom ground cam, all the valvetrain, custom pistons, custom rods, sleeved, bored up to 78.5mm, blueprinted, all bearings, everything, they guarntee it up to 700hp boosted***with proper components*** and btw there is nothing but custom pistons/rods/valvetrain for this engine there is almost nothing shelf. so if you were thinking oh ill just skip the sleeve and get pistons rods valvetrain, well ur gonna spend 4grand to do that right, so why not have it sleeved cam headwork and all the other shit for 4grand, cuz if you get rods pistons and valves and shit ur gonna feel really stupid when you fuck it up cuz u didnt sleeve it. the rods pistons and valvetrain gonna run you 2g's so id just do it right.... cuz if you dont do it right with this motor ur gonna be mad. and towin ur shit home too. if you dont wanna spend that kinda cash, swap it. swaps are cheap compared to building this motor.
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:03 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Mods: VW's now my daily driver, until I can get the EG back on the road.
Putney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep tropospherePutney, VT Rice In the rep troposphere
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Originally Posted by Villan256 View Post
depends on your budget, can you do it yes..... will you pay a lot of money yes, do you have to work on the head,.........fuck yes if they told you no its not a reliable shop or they only do OEM work. you need retainers, valves, springs, guides, everything, if you want to put 20psi on that motor google bisimoto, im gettin the 7200$ full build, if you are only doin it to it cuz you have the motor it will be lots cheaper to get a d16 of some kind and just swap it, if you arent buildin this motor just to say that you did, dont do it swap it with anything newer.a d16a6 even those are hella cheap i hear. , dont make psi goals, 20 psi wont blow up the motor unless its tuned cuz if it is ur gonna be near 300hp at 20psi unless you completely build the motor and if you dont sleeve its iffy around 300hp 350hp on stock sleeves i hear., and if you dont tune it its gonna run worse than it did stock, and probley detonate and blow too. as for 5-6 lbs, .....bolonga... im at 12.24 the only problem i have is my stock clutch. u need to think of what hp you want, and dont say 600 cuz you wont get 600 on this motor without about 50psi lol. search Bisimoto.... not to mention you are gonna have to get LSD, clutch, all type of shit. u could have bought a lot of shit probley about 4 jdm swaps by the time you get the d15 where you want it. only reason im doin it is cuz i want to.lots of ppl say you cant push this and that on this motor but i already roasted an h22 swap with mine. which he wasnt turbo'd or anything just h22 I/H/E, but he didnt think my engine was about to do shit on boost cuz its d15. and if you are gonna boost no matter what anyone tells you, get an adj cam gear, and skunk2 intake mani. people told me i didnt need it, but i beg to differ since i gained 50 fuckin hp at 6200hp, and got all the choppyness outta the power band with 4 deg. +. if you want to spend all the cash to do it just to get respect from dohc and all other ppl, then go to bisimoto, get the 7200 full build, it comes with everything, head work, custom ground cam, all the valvetrain, custom pistons, custom rods, sleeved, bored up to 78.5mm, blueprinted, all bearings, everything, they guarntee it up to 700hp boosted***with proper components*** and btw there is nothing but custom pistons/rods/valvetrain for this engine there is almost nothing shelf. so if you were thinking oh ill just skip the sleeve and get pistons rods valvetrain, well ur gonna spend 4grand to do that right, so why not have it sleeved cam headwork and all the other shit for 4grand, cuz if you get rods pistons and valves and shit ur gonna feel really stupid when you fuck it up cuz u didnt sleeve it. the rods pistons and valvetrain gonna run you 2g's so id just do it right.... cuz if you dont do it right with this motor ur gonna be mad. and towin ur shit home too. if you dont wanna spend that kinda cash, swap it. swaps are cheap compared to building this motor.
Dude the last time this was in flow was back in 07'. Things have changed a lot. I bought a D16Z6 block: $100, head: $75, tranny: $100. I had the block and head sent out to get machined. Then the head was cleaned and rebuilt with New OEM parts. The Block was built with Eagle Rods and Aries Pistons. I had a Crower Stage 1 Cam put in. The motor is done. Now I am having the tranny rebuilt. It will have 1-4 be the stock gear ratio, but 5th will come from a VX or CX; I can't remember which one has a longer 5th.

The motor will be fitted with a Clutchmaster FX400 and matching flywheel. It will have a Love Fab A/C compatible Exhaust Manifold and will be mated to a Garret GT2861R. I will also upgrade the intake manifold to a Skunk2. I'm not sure about the rest of the turbo kit, it's kind of in the works. After the motor was built, I kind of lost sight in the project, so are started rebuilding the suspension in my car. And now I'm think of repainting the entire car; again. So I will hold off on the turbo. I might just drop the motor in and run it N/A, until I have the money for the turbo parts I want.

So that's where it sits now.

Here's a pic of the car now, sitting in my Garage.




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