Project Boosted D-Series

[Putney, VT Rice]

I have a D15B7 with 210,000miles and I need to know, if I were to rebuild it and send it out to a machine shop; for them to bore out the cylinders and rehone the cylinders and put in Eagle forged connecting rods and low compression pistons; would I need to sleeve the block or will there be enough meat on the engine to withstand 20psi? I wouldn't be boring it out very much, only enough to put new pistons in to seat the rings correctly. I was just wondering cause 210,000miles is a lot of shit junked up in the motor and I have no idea what the inside will look like before I take it apart. oh, and will I need to do any head work? A reliable shop around me told me that the head wouldn't need any work. Oh, and how long would you imagine this sort of set-up lasting, cause I need it to last about 4 more years or longer, which will come out to be like 45,000 miles or so?

[kommon_sense]

20psi = engine shrapnel

There was a guy on another one of the forums who kept boosting d15b7's. They nicknamed him "rodslinger." I wouldn't waste money putting aftermarket parts into a b7. You would be better off running low boost, like 5-6psi, or putting the money into a bigger motor like possibly a b18b.

[Putney, VT Rice]

Originally Posted by kommon_sense

20psi = engine shrapnel

There was a guy on another one of the forums who kept boosting d15b7's. They nicknamed him "rodslinger." I wouldn't waste money putting aftermarket parts into a b7. You would be better off running low boost, like 5-6psi, or putting the money into a bigger motor like possibly a b18b.

Well the reason for sticking with this motor, is because I already have it. So that saves me the money for going out and buying another motor and tranny and anything else I need to make it work. Then the guys over at Dentsport.com told me that if I were to send the engine out to there machine shop and get it bored and honed, and then they put in Eagle Forged Rods and Pistons and nice rings and new gaskets and seals and everything else that goes along with putting an engine back together again. I will be able to run 20psi. Now I don't think I will be running that much, but I was wondering if they were yanking my chain or if it was 4 real? I would probably run around 7psi for the street and 10 to 14 for the track. Also I don't need to be making crazy horse power numbers, I need it to make like 220 to 250 to the wheels. No more than that. If I wanted any more than that, I could see with going with a B-Series. Also in like 4 years or so, whenever I get all the money together, I am putting in a fully build K20A Red Top. So this D-Series is kind of like an in between stage for me, just something that will be more fun to drive around with, but something that won't bruise my wallet too badly and I need it to last another 45,000 miles or so.

What do you think?

[93HondaMan]

20 PSI just seems like ALOT.My Cummins does 20 PSI stock (I have heared dont quote me on that)and the pistons on that thing are HUGE.A friend of mine blew his motor on his integra just running 8 PSI.

[Jo060]

If built correctly, 20 PSI really isn't that much. But I'm with Kommon. Ditch the engine, or change plans. If you want to stay D-series a Y7 is good to boost.

[VwtoHonda]

Originally Posted by Jo060

If built correctly, 20 PSI really isn't that much. But I'm with Kommon. Ditch the engine, or change plans. If you want to stay D-series a Y7 is good to boost.

Just depends on how you build it and what turbo... I have driven a boosted y7 and thought it was a turd... I think I could out run it in my civic si with Intake and Header!! But the turbo is way to big for the y7 and doesn't build boost fast enough in my opinion, but I'm sure you could get great numbers if built right......PS Love the MANIFOLD In you Pic!! Beautiful!

[kommon_sense]

Originally Posted by Putney, VT Rice

Well the reason for sticking with this motor, is because I already have it. So that saves me the money for going out and buying another motor and tranny and anything else I need to make it work. Then the guys over at Dentsport.com told me that if I were to send the engine out to there machine shop and get it bored and honed, and then they put in Eagle Forged Rods and Pistons and nice rings and new gaskets and seals and everything else that goes along with putting an engine back together again. I will be able to run 20psi.

The block simply can't handle that type of cylinder pressure. The cylinder walls are too thin and I wouldn't trust any shop that suggested it would be ok. You also have the problem with the small rod journals on the crank handling the power without beating up the bearings.

Last time I checked, no one offered an affordable d15b7 rod?

[Jo060]

Originally Posted by kommon_sense

Last time I checked, no one offered an affordable d15b7 rod?

Truth

[Jo060]

Originally Posted by VwtoHonda

JI have driven a boosted y7 and thought it was a turd... I think I could out run it in my civic si with Intake and Header!! But the turbo is way to big for the y7 and doesn't build boost fast enough in my opinion,

Like you said. Size matters.

A Y7 with a T3/T4 .63 AR @ 14psi would walk all over a SI with I/H/E/C like it was standing still. Now if you throw a turbo in the .80's then the acceleration wouldn't be all that good, but top end would murder.

[crx3687]

yes, that pic is great. You should share on what your doing/using for a setup.

[Putney, VT Rice]

Originally Posted by kommon_sense

The block simply can't handle that type of cylinder pressure. The cylinder walls are too thin and I wouldn't trust any shop that suggested it would be ok. You also have the problem with the small rod journals on the crank handling the power without beating up the bearings.

Last time I checked, no one offered an affordable d15b7 rod?

Who said anything about affordable?

I'm not trying to make crazy horse power, this is just going to be an in between motor that will suffice, until I get my k20. I only want to make like 220 to 250 whp. I'm not looking for more than that. I think I'm going with Eagle rods, ARP Head bolts, Arias Piston set, ACL Main Bearings, Cometic Head gasket. Thats just a few of the parts being used in the build. I will do a whole thread on it, in the D-Series or Civic Section as soon as the ball gets rolling.

[kommon_sense]

Originally Posted by Putney, VT Rice

Who said anything about affordable?

I'm not trying to make crazy horse power, this is just going to be an in between motor that will suffice, until I get my k20. I only want to make like 220 to 250 whp. I'm not looking for more than that. I think I'm going with Eagle rods, ARP Head bolts, Arias Piston set, ACL Main Bearings, Cometic Head gasket. Thats just a few of the parts being used in the build. I will do a whole thread on it, in the D-Series or Civic Section as soon as the ball gets rolling.

When I said affordable, I meant I haven't seen a d15b7 rod for less than $600. Did eagle start making a d15 rod or are you assuming? you are wasting your money building the d15b7.

you are talking about spending > $2k to build a poor motor that will still be poor even built for boost when you can get a whole b18b for < $2k and it can make the power you want with stock internals... and if you do a k-swap down the road, at least you can sell the b18b.

[Jo060]

I'm going to have to agree with Kommon, again. Just looking out for you, Putney. You're going to drop a decent amount of money into this 15b7, and not get near the amount of power you're looking for, and be VERY upset.

Do like Kommon or I said. Go with a B, they naturally can handle more power. Or if you really want to stay with the D, a Y7 or Y8 handle boost very well. It's your choice.