Hey all. I'm considering installing an apexi VAFC in my D16Y8. Is it worth doing, does it help at all? I hear a Hondata is better, however, I'm not sure what it is, or what it does. How do the two interact? (Still technially a noob, sorry. :noo ) Anyway, if anyone has any two cents on these mods, lemme know. Thanks.
vafc=POS(trust me I owned one) its basicly useles and its basicly a fancy clock.
you mess w/ the map sensor voltage to change injector pulse width and duration. But it cant control ignition timing at all, and you also cant control fule at nearly as many RPM points as the other motods. one up side is you will be able to pass inspection with it but thats about it.
hondata is tuned via a laptop and you can control the timing and injector cycles from the laptop.
you could also convert to obd1 and chip an obd1 ecu its a much cheaper alternative to hondata.Tuned basicly the same as hondata
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What kind of mods do you have done that would require a VAFC or Hondata?
well you dont necesarily have to have any mods, the stock honda a/f curve and timing is ment soly for mpg and leaves a HUGE safety margin for shitty gas and extreme weater.
even on a stock d16y8 with slight changes of the stock maps on a dyno will get you 5 or so whp.
with basic mods more is to be expected.
but I se what your saying, if he just has i/h/e its not really THAT necesary at all but it would be ery helpful.
for tubo its MUST IMO to une both timing and fule
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Yeah there's HP to be had on an OEM setup...but you need a dyno+wideband to tune...after that cost + a VAFC cost...the price/performance ratio is terrible.
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Hm. From the looks of it, I'd might as well do nothing? How much is a hondata? Is it worth the money? At 6,600 feet in altitude, is there anything else I should be doing? Right now, I've got the basics. Intake, header, exhaust. I might get a jackson racing super charger in the near future. But right now, if you guys have any less expensive suggestions, like a hondata, lemme know. Thanks again.
You can get a base Hondata new (non-boost version) for like $230 or an expandable version for $300. I'm not really sure what speed junky was talking about when he said "convert to OBD1 as an alternative to going Hondata"...you have to convert to OBD1 to use a Hondata anyways, so factor in that cost as well.
Since you brought it up...if you plan to go boost with a JRSC and want to tune with Hondata, I have an OBD1 P75 ecu with a Hondata S100 boost version already installed in it. For your VTEC engine you would need to have a chipper install the VTEC circuitry for around $50 then you'd be ready to tune away. I'm only asking $250 for the ecu with Hondata installed. If you were to buy a new S100b and P28 ecu it would run you just under $600. I can't sell it until October when I'm back in the country, but maybe in the meantime you can save for your JRSC...
Ow. Hp doesn't come cheap these days, eh? Well, like I've asked before, is there any other logical step I should do or get before any of the heavy hitting stuff like forced induction? Port and Polish? (engine has 80k on it, fyi), different throttle body?
Nope, at least not squeezing more hp from your Honda. But at least there's plenty of hp to be had if you got the money! Port/polishing isn't cheap either, a basic street/strip job from a reputable company will hit you for $600-700 if you get all the areas looked at that need work. Partial p&p work can be done for less, or full race work for even more.
The good thing about forced induction on your motor is that you can get some pretty impressive numbers without touching the inside of the motor at all. With 8psi on a JRSC Hondata-tuned you could feasibly hit 180 wheel hp on your stock engine. A turbo is even more tunable/adjustable and can get you over 200whp. But the combo of power & reliability is mostly in the tuning.
I see. The reason I'm going with the JRSC is because I've got a decent set of ceramic DC 4-2-1 headers and I'm not willing to let them go to get a turbo. Call it stupid or stubborn, whichever. Furthermore, yeah, I've heard the same thing, that an untouched D series can hit up to 10 psi before undue stress is subjected. However, I doubt I'd even crank mine up to 8 psi. I'd swap to a B series, but I think for similar prices, the JRSC is the better pick, since I'm at pretty high altitude and forced induction is the way to go up here... I guess I could always lighten the car a little? Maybe that'll help slightly. I guess another fyi would be my intentions for the car is a daily driver with some canyon driving. No track use or autoX. So, if anyone has a good setup following that criteria, send some info my way if you could. Thanks
I think for what your usage of the car is, the plan you have will suit you just fine. You might save a ton of cash picking up a lightly used charger kit too. Serious horsepower junkies sometimes try out the JRSC but that's not really what it's for, turbos or centrifugal blowers are good for mad power. For your needs though it should be real nice.
yea JRSC sounds like the plan for you, on a stock y8 with a shitty FMU it makes 140whp at 6psi, with a smaller pully and some actual tuning you will reach ~165whp I would say.
that doesnt sound like much I know but since its SC the TQ curve will be flat as a freaking lake . will definetly pull like hell 2k and up.
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160 whp sounds awful nice (right now, I'm running around 106whp and 99tq). Definitely improves the power:weight ratio. But yeah, I'm tired of standing on the gas and finding myself slightly ahead of the VW yellow beetle behind me. Jerks a few tears, actually (on the inside, of course), especially after puting the money in the I/H/E, and enkei RPF1's. So what should I put on the list for the JRSC install?
D16Y8 JRSC
Hondata
OBD1
Anyone chime in if I'm wrong or if I'm missing something. I'd rather sound stupid now, than destroy my engine later.
You might consider some larger fuel injectors it makes tuning lots easier, although the Y8 has the same size injectors as the DOHC VTEC models which have slightly less hp than your supecharged setup will have. You wouldn't need more than like 310cc units.
Well, like I've asked before, is there any other logical step I should do or get before any of the heavy hitting stuff like forced induction? Port and Polish? (engine has 80k on it, fyi), different throttle body?