ANYONE with 88-91 civic turbo B-serise??

[chingro]

i am currently doing my new project,
it is a 1991 civic hatch with a LS motor, and i plan to turbo it

from my experience with swapping B18C's in 88-91 CRX/civics i notice the lack of space for a turbo application........

i want to know if anyone has done it, and what problems he/she faced, and what turbo kit (if not custom) did you use?

[chingro]

anyone???

guess no one on SH has this setup.......

[waistoftime]

Now this is taken off of **********.com poster is speed PHreak:

I'll list off what I can remember. For the record I used a DRAG III kit for a 94+ LS.

1) First and foremost the Radiator: With a DRAG III kit I had about 1/4~1/8" of clearance with the rad in the stock position. No enough in my book, especially with engine torque. So the solution for this was too flatten out the lower radiator support with a hammer. I used a block of wood and an anvil and a 5lb hammer. I beat until I could slide the bottom on the rad, forward enough to give me about 1~1.5" whorth of clearance on the turbo. So now the rad sits somewhat liek this " / "

Yes this was the redneck way to it, and a 1/2 width 92-95 Radiator would have been better. I didn't have access to one, and heard that that rad is a bit taller than the 88-91 and some "mods" need to be done to make it fit.

2) Secondly the cross member. I had to remove it and beat a dent in it with a 5lb sledge hammer. Again, redneck....ON this mod it's straight foreward, dent until it clears . I've got about 1/4" past the DP for safe measure.

3) I/C piping: Hope you're not planning on keeping A/C if' you've got it b/c it's damn near impossible. I've seen it done though. Anyways...Coming off of the compressor you're gonna need to make a 90 as short as possible. A rubber coupling would be best for this. Tho i'm using the bends fromthe DRAG kit with the silicone connectors w/o fail. You're going to need to run the I/C piping just above the x-member or slightly infront(past the hump, look you'll see what I mean). either way it's gonna be tight using the stock componets. A tight 180 is gonna be needed at the hole where the A/C charge lines run though(the hole will need to be enlarged). Mount your I/C however you please. Mine is slightly offset to the passenger side. The mounting of your I/C will depend largely on the trim of your EF. The HF chassis a nothing for a front bumber support that allowed me to mount my I/C very close to the frame. Also my DRGA I/C was mounted with the inlets and outlets on the topside. I had brackets welded to the lower radiator support to let me mount it. The rest of the I/C piping can be custom or whatever gets it to your intake manifold. Somewhere in there you'll definately want a BOV. Piping --> TB I used a 2" rubber sewage pipe coupling. Works perfect.

** Z-10 would make life alot easier for this mod and the previous one. With a lot more rooom for the DP to clear and the abitlity to mount the newer style radiator it may be worth looking into if you've got an extra $500 buring a hole in your ass. **

a Tial wastegate will rub the hood. Mine wouldn't even shut until I trimmed the webbing and now it still rubs ever so slightly.


so ya see what a little searching can do

[chingro]

i did my searching.....

what website is that taken from?.....

thanks

[waistoftime]

hondatech except with one of these - in the middle of honda and tech

[chingro]

after reading that...i goin to turbo my 92 civic (LS/VTEC) instead...

later