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Old 07-25-2002, 07:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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B18 non-vtec, or vtec

I've got a 95 Integra SE B18B non-vtec. I'm gonna pull out my motor this winter and rebuild it. First of all I don't want to have to rewire anything for an OBD2, so that's why I thought about keeping my B18B in there. I'm wanting to put a turbo on like next year (cash problems). But what should I do? Keep the B18B or what? And what internals should I use? I'm wanting to run around 17 - 21 psi. I was looking at JE pistons, Crower Cams, ect. What is the best route though for a good 12 sec V8 eater? If you have any better ideas on internals please pass them my way. Thanks
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Old 07-25-2002, 09:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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with ~20psi, you should run faster than 12 second assuming you tune it right and get no traction problems, and etc. i say keep your block.
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Old 07-25-2002, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I say keep the block ( I think its a great turbo motor) and build a bullet proof bottom end a long duration valve train, and add alot of fuel and be run 20 psi all day.
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Old 07-25-2002, 10:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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another thing I highly recommend (well, close to essential when running that much boost) on the management/tuning side of things is to go with a standalone system, such as Hondata, AEM EMS, etc.
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Old 07-25-2002, 11:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As far as bottom end goes, what steps would I need to take to make it "bullet proof"? Any internal ideas? Thanks
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Old 07-26-2002, 04:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Resleeve the block, rods, pistons, ARP bolts, maybe a block guard, etc..
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Old 07-26-2002, 06:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It depends on what your goals are and what your budget is. If you are going all out use:

Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves
Crower Billet rods
JE 10:1 pistons
Swain technologies ceramic coating
Ferrea Stainless steal valves
skunk2 springs
ARP fasteners
Total Seal rings

If you are doing a street/track car use:

Darton/GE sleeves or Block guard
Crower or Eagle forged rods
JE 10:1
ferrea stainless
skunk2 springs
ARP
JE rings
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Old 07-26-2002, 08:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for your info, but I have one question. Wouldn't I want to go with a lower CR than 10:1? I thought a lower CR than that would be better. Just wondering.
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Old 07-26-2002, 08:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fasteg
Thanks for your info, but I have one question. Wouldn't I want to go with a lower CR than 10:1? I thought a lower CR than that would be better. Just wondering.
its not ALWAY better..lowering the compression just gives you more room in tuning, so you don't run into detonation, your worst enemy. a higher compression will yield more power from the turbo, but tuning is required to keep it alive at high boost.

higher compression: more power, less room to make errors

lower compression: less power, more room to make errors.

try to dig up that "Boosted LS vs. GSR" or something like that. MatT3T4 gave a lot of info on that.
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Old 07-26-2002, 07:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 07-26-2002, 07:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by GSteg


its not ALWAY better..lowering the compression just gives you more room in tuning, so you don't run into detonation, your worst enemy. a higher compression will yield more power from the turbo, but tuning is required to keep it alive at high boost.

higher compression: more power, less room to make errors

lower compression: less power, more room to make errors.

try to dig up that "Boosted LS vs. GSR" or something like that. MatT3T4 gave a lot of info on that.
I wish Matt would come back
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