OK, I have come to the conclusion that you truly get what you pay for. That's why I am almost positive I am going with the Tial BOV for $240 shipped. Are there any suggestions for another comapny's BOV or someone who has something bad to say about the Tial model. And yes I have read past BOV threads.
Thanks in Advance
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.
Mods: bronze TSW vx1 rims, yoko AVS ES100 205/50zr15, neuspeed strut brace, oem body kit, eibach/KYB susp. under hood: wouldn't you like to know?
my opinion:
a BOV is a BOV. it's not a crucial be-all and end-all part of a setup, and it's a pretty simple part, so it would be tough to make a bad one. i'm using a DSM BOV and it works great. if it fails for some reason, so i'll get some compressor surge once or twice before i replace it. point is, your engine won't blow because of a faulty bov. plus i like the sound of the dsm.
now a w/g or fuel pump, on the other hand, they could seriously mess you up if they fail. that's where you don't want to cheap out.
ps. if you still get the tial bov, don't pay retail! who does that anymore?
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live in or around winnipeg? check this thread...
www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=145420
check out BLITZ DD..... I have one and I like how it sounds...even on 7 PSI...it sounds nice.......
If you read the past posts.....you probably visited the site with blow-off valve sounds that someone posted in one of them
BLITZ will run you $180 new on ebay
I bought mine for $220 new and it had a piece of 2" aluminum pipe with a flange welded on to it already....wchich makes the install a little easier because you don't have to go anywhere to get the flange welded on to yourcharge pipe.......but I still went with 2.5" piping so it was a waste of money....... If you'll go with 2" piping and decide to go with blitz DD........IM me and I'll send you the pipe, just pay shipping..
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93' Prelude SI
ENGINE:
-AEM EMS (still waiting to be installed)
-JDM LSD Trans
-2.3 SI redone all new seals gaskets - Auto To Manual Swap - Polished Head & Intake - 3 angle valve job - port job on head and intake mani - T3/T4 turbonetics turbo - South Florida performance manifold and 3' downpipe - TIAL 38mm wastegate - Blitz DD blow off valve - Stainless steel 2.5 charge pipes - 24x12x3 Hybrid intercooler - 3' APEXi n1 with 3' custom exhaust - APEXi AVC-R - 450cc's DSM - APEXi SAFC - Denso Plugs - Nology Wires - MSD Ingition & Coil - AEM Pulleys - CAT Removed
BODY:
-Custom Yellow Paint-Value Wide body Front Bumper-Black Widdow Sides & Rear-Z3 Fenders-Predator Hood-JDM Headlights (black housing)-APR DRAG Spoiler-18"Konig Trantum Wheels-Yokohama Parada Rubber-Koni Shocks-Ground Control Coilovers-Shaved Door Handles-Shaved Antena & Emblems-All Clear Lights
INTERIOR & AUDIO:
-Interior Painted Yallow & Silver-Sony CDX-600 Head Unit-All Alpine Speakers-4 Alpine Subs & 2 Amps-autometer tach-BLITZ 80mm Boost gauge-Autometer a/f gauge
I would Suggest the Sard R2D2 BOV, it has a very unique sound that most video games use for the bov sound.
I have an HKS Super-sequential that works great and sounds good. I would vote against the greddy-type S because I use to have it and the seals went bad on it.
Originally posted by AnthonyA182 I would Suggest the Sard R2D2 BOV, it has a very unique sound that most video games use for the bov sound.
I have an HKS Super-sequential that works great and sounds good. I would vote against the greddy-type S because I use to have it and the seals went bad on it.
Just my 2 psi
What about the Apex-i, I am kinda leaning toward it. I have heard good things. And it's sound is three-way adjustable too, so you can actually daily drive in peace.
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‘95 Integra GS-R Hatch Engine/tranny: JDM H22A w/ Factory LSD, HCP Mount Kit, Exedy Organic Clutch, Greddy EVO Exhaust, Custom SS Header, AEM SRI, P72 tuned w/ Uberdata, PWR Radiator, Forbidden Motorsports Short Shifter, Trunk mounted Optima Red Top Battery. Handling/Stopping: Koni Yellow Struts, H&R Springs, Danny Tran Racing Traction Bars, Spoon Rear Strut Bar, ITR Front Strut Bar, Brembo Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Brembo pads, SS Brake Lines, Yokohama ES-100 205/40/17, 17’’ Momo GT2‘s. Ice/Interior: Alpine CDA-9835 deck, (4) Pioneer 6.5'' 3-way speakers (200 watt), 2001 GSR Full Leather, Autometer Bezel Gauge Pod, Autometer CF Oil Pressure gauge, Autometer CF Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge, Skunk 2 Shift Knob, ITR Shift Boot, etc. Future Plans: JDM ITR Front End Conversion w/ Gunmetal H.I.D. Headlights, 17’’ Work Emotion Gunmetal Wheels, ITR Spoiler, OEM optional Side Skirts, Shaved side moldings, Kandy Apple Paint.