What is miantenance like on a turbocharged Honda, any series, B,D,F,H, anything. What is involved besides the regular stuff? I heard you have to change the oil more often like every 2,000 miles, watch oil pressure and a/f guages all the time. Check oil level weekly. Let the car idle for a few minutes after a drive to let it cool down, unless you have a turbo timer of course. Dyno tune it with a a good tuning device to mka eit reliable. Are all these things true? Is it worth all of these maintenance aspects? It seems like kinda of a hassle to own a turbocharged car. Am I just over exaggerating?
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oh yes. All that you mentioned is all worth it. The first time you beat an SVT Cobra or even a Mustang GT and you look over at him when you pass him...its straight pleasure knowing that he's pissed off you're going to beat him and there's nothing he can do about it.
All that you mentioned may sound like a lot, but it really isn't. Especially if you go Hondata and have it tuned. There's way less to worry about then.
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99 Si-T: Ran a 13.87 @ 102.34mph. Full int, w a/c & p/s, on 17" street tires, and a full exhaust (no open downpipe) @ 6.5psi of boost. Check out my old Si-T
Totalled my All Motor GSR 10/1/05
Damn that's so true, that must be such a good feeling to smoke Mustangs and see the look on their faces. Thats one of the main reasons why I was thinkin of goin LS turbo for my hatch. Damn you makin me lean towards turbo again, I was just reminded of how great it will be once it's done. How do I know which Hondata to get?
Mods: JDM ITR FE conversion. All-motor goodies. Hondata system.
Quote:
Originally posted by Hybrid Fever Damn that's so true, that must be such a good feeling to smoke Mustangs and see the look on their faces. Thats one of the main reasons why I was thinkin of goin LS turbo for my hatch. Damn you makin me lean towards turbo again, I was just reminded of how great it will be once it's done. How do I know which Hondata to get?
LS/Turbo... Ah yes...just hearing that blow-off valve, seeing that I/C in the bumper, and having potentially more hp at the turn of a dial or screw (more psi) is worth every penny I spent.
Remember, you can spend up to about $1200 on a Hondata. Do you mind used or want new?
Now you'll need a Hondata with Boost option at least. Go to www.hondata.com and decide what special options you want. If I did it again I'd get the equivalent of a 3b with data logging. So get the s200 series with boost, launch control, full throttle shifts (for fun, good for 1/4 times and turbos, but not necessary), vtec cross over adjustability, shift light and adjustable rev limit, and especially data logging. This is so you can hook your laptop up to it and have instant read-outs on everything from mph, what gear you're in, if you have a/c on, intake air temperature, engine temp., revs, ECU codes?, and lots of other little sweet things. I want data logging! The screen that is shown on your laptop is cool. I'd put it in place of my gauge cluster if I could.
I got my Hondata 3b (no data logging) used for $600.
__________________ F/S: OBD-IIb to OBD-I conv harness. 96-00 Civic camber kit. PM for details.
99 Si-T: Ran a 13.87 @ 102.34mph. Full int, w a/c & p/s, on 17" street tires, and a full exhaust (no open downpipe) @ 6.5psi of boost. Check out my old Si-T
Totalled my All Motor GSR 10/1/05
Mods: JDM ITR FE conversion. All-motor goodies. Hondata system.
its worth it!
When I told my friends at work I was going turbo one of them said, "Turbo! Dang! That's like something we read about cars having in magazines. I don't know anyone with a turbo Honda." In my area I was the 3rd guy to go turbo with my Honda. There's 2 guys from the same club on the other side of town. Sweet club...d-wreck knows who I'm talking about. There's one other guy that keeps swaping his n/a b16 with his turbo b16 cause of engine problems.
He had in a stock valve train, Spoon cams, Spoon ECU with no rev limit...reved to about 9500 in his b16 in 1st gear...dissintegrated piston #4, put a 3/4" crack in the piston ring and sleeve from top to bottom. I have him on tape doing it. When I saw him do it I kept waiting for him to shift...no shift...POP!!!....metal chunks hitting pavement sound...and his engine stopped. The piston blew all over the track, and all through the bottom of his block.
The moral of the story: Don't use aggressive cams, an ecu with no rev limit, and a stock valve train!
__________________ F/S: OBD-IIb to OBD-I conv harness. 96-00 Civic camber kit. PM for details.
99 Si-T: Ran a 13.87 @ 102.34mph. Full int, w a/c & p/s, on 17" street tires, and a full exhaust (no open downpipe) @ 6.5psi of boost. Check out my old Si-T
Totalled my All Motor GSR 10/1/05
definately worth it! even though im prolly not gonna beat a svt, i could prolly smoke a reg gt hahah...consider this is a sohc hx motor running the greddy kit. its got its pull for the buck...hahah...
after joining the darkside i have only 3 kills all si's with some combo of i/h/e pretty gratifying considering this car NA is a dog with its long gears...getting beat left and right. now im just enjoying how much harder my car pulls and the nice BOV heheh...
when u get the 3 gauges on ur a-pillar,
people are more reluctant to race or ricer rev on ya...hahaha...its funny looking in the rear vew and seeing em keep pace and not pass me
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I'm convinced. I'm going in to a shop next week to have the LS motor installed. I'm even stoked about that right now, cuz all I have now is the 92 hp VX motor. So that will be a good gain. Then once I get the Rev Hard Stage 2 turbo kit @10psi, it's all over. Mustangs and Camaros will go down. It's gonna be great to have all that torque and mean sounding car.
Hey aren't those svt pretty hard to kill with a turbo honda. I know i could kill gt and stuff but reading on the svt, that is some fast stang. But hey i race one someday. Well just go with turbo.
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Originally posted by Hybrid Fever I don't think the SVT's are that fast, like mid 13s or so? I'm not sure about the brand new ones, but I know the older ones ran like high 13s.
A 2003 Cobra Mustang was recently dyno'd at my friend's shop. He runs a Superflow Chassis Dyno that's good for 1000+ horsepower, load and inertia tests, and has tuned a twin-supercharger viper, turbo nsx, and a couple of other cars with engines assembled by duttweiler performance.
Anyways...the new Cobra dyno'd in at...400 WHP and 357 lbs of torque.
Mods: JDM ITR FE conversion. All-motor goodies. Hondata system.
Quote:
Originally posted by hawjdude Hey aren't those svt pretty hard to kill with a turbo honda. I know i could kill gt and stuff but reading on the svt, that is some fast stang. But hey i race one someday. Well just go with turbo.
Man Hawjdude I know you could kill a 96 SVT Cobra. You've got a GSR turbo on 9psi right? I know you could kill one. Just memorize the tail light pattern of the 96s (cause they only came with 305 hp at the crank) and I think they ran high 13s at best...and I doubt they have any good top end. I don't think that I'd beat the new ones (00,01,02 or even 03) if they made them all those years. I know those are fast!
__________________ F/S: OBD-IIb to OBD-I conv harness. 96-00 Civic camber kit. PM for details.
99 Si-T: Ran a 13.87 @ 102.34mph. Full int, w a/c & p/s, on 17" street tires, and a full exhaust (no open downpipe) @ 6.5psi of boost. Check out my old Si-T
Totalled my All Motor GSR 10/1/05
Originally posted by Hybrid Fever What is miantenance like on a turbocharged Honda, any series, B,D,F,H, anything. What is involved besides the regular stuff? I heard you have to change the oil more often like every 2,000 miles, watch oil pressure and a/f guages all the time. Check oil level weekly. Let the car idle for a few minutes after a drive to let it cool down, unless you have a turbo timer of course. Dyno tune it with a a good tuning device to mka eit reliable. Are all these things true? Is it worth all of these maintenance aspects? It seems like kinda of a hassle to own a turbocharged car. Am I just over exaggerating?
Like everybody else has said, yes it's defiantly worth the extra maintenance.For me it was realized the first time i beat a vette.The guy deserved it because he was all cocky thinking that he was the shit.The Usual look from people who think that they are better, so i had to show him up...... Two things happend from that race 1) the guy got his ass handed to him and 2) it has kept me out of trouble with the law.....how one might ask well very few people try to race me now (which makes me happy) so i don't have the temptation.......I live in a small town where word travels faster then light.....
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It really depends
I dunno, I think you're going a little overboard with the maintenence quotes. If you're super-anal, maybe, but not really.
I change my oil every 3,000 still, it's not like the oil gets more dirty than before, 3,000 miles is fine.
You can watch your oil pressure if you'd like, but I dont' swee also why this would differ. Sure, you're running oil to the turbo, but it's not a huge draw off the system, less than it is doing LS/VTEC.
A/F also won't change unless you do something drastic, like blow your fuel pump out, then the car will stall anyway. Fuel pressure is important with tuning, but as you're driving your car to work and back, it also, can be neglected. A/F ratio gauge is crap unless you have a wideband O2 sensor anyway.
You should check your oil level every time you get gas, reguardless. If you drive your car to its limits, it's nautral to burn a little bit of oil. I've blown a couple motors because of my neglect of checking the oil. This is a tad more important on a turbo car, because of the potentail of blowing out seals inside the turbo. This will burn oil more rapidly than any other motor would (obviosuly).
The 'manual' turbo timer is important, or auto if you have one, if you want your turbo to last. If helps bring the temperature of the oil and the turbo down more steadily, making the potential for rapid cooling to not affect the seals inside the turbo. If you have a ball bering turbo. Also the moving parts in normal (not ball-bering) turbos are made spin on the oil itself. If the oil stops flowing during cool-down, it can cause problems, and lead to a greater amount of shaft-play.
A/F ratio is important, the best thing you can do for your turbocharged Honda, is get it tuned on the dyno. I'd saay over 75% of all turbo honda motors blowing is a lean condition, running too much boost on a car which hasn't been set-up to handle that boost level. Typically, on stock internals, the ring lands are the first to blow out in a Honda engine. This will cause oil to leak past the rings and burn. Compression will be lost as well in advanced stages.
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'96 Integra Turbo @ 15psi built by me in my garage.
Originally posted by AcuraBro I dunno, I think you're going a little overboard with the maintenence quotes. If you're super-anal, maybe, but not really.
I change my oil every 3,000 still, it's not like the oil gets more dirty than before, 3,000 miles is fine.
You can watch your oil pressure if you'd like, but I dont' swee also why this would differ. Sure, you're running oil to the turbo, but it's not a huge draw off the system, less than it is doing LS/VTEC.
A/F also won't change unless you do something drastic, like blow your fuel pump out, then the car will stall anyway. Fuel pressure is important with tuning, but as you're driving your car to work and back, it also, can be neglected. A/F ratio gauge is crap unless you have a wideband O2 sensor anyway.
You should check your oil level every time you get gas, reguardless. If you drive your car to its limits, it's nautral to burn a little bit of oil. I've blown a couple motors because of my neglect of checking the oil. This is a tad more important on a turbo car, because of the potentail of blowing out seals inside the turbo. This will burn oil more rapidly than any other motor would (obviosuly).
The 'manual' turbo timer is important, or auto if you have one, if you want your turbo to last. If helps bring the temperature of the oil and the turbo down more steadily, making the potential for rapid cooling to not affect the seals inside the turbo. If you have a ball bering turbo. Also the moving parts in normal (not ball-bering) turbos are made spin on the oil itself. If the oil stops flowing during cool-down, it can cause problems, and lead to a greater amount of shaft-play.
A/F ratio is important, the best thing you can do for your turbocharged Honda, is get it tuned on the dyno. I'd saay over 75% of all turbo honda motors blowing is a lean condition, running too much boost on a car which hasn't been set-up to handle that boost level. Typically, on stock internals, the ring lands are the first to blow out in a Honda engine. This will cause oil to leak past the rings and burn. Compression will be lost as well in advanced stages.
Wow, thanks for the great info. Yeah turbo definitely seems worth it after I've been thinking about it. Out of curiousity what kinda of setup are you running in your integra. I'm intewrested in achieving mid 12's in a EG hatch with LS turbo. Thanks.
Two things happend from that race 1) the guy got his ass handed to him and 2) it has kept me out of trouble with the law.....how one might ask well very few people try to race me now (which makes me happy) so i don't have the temptation.......I live in a small town where word travels faster then light.....
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