I just installed the greddy turbo on my si and everything is fine except i get a chaeck engine light after driving. I pulled 2 codes and it said that my car is - 1.too rich and the other - 2. MAP sensor circuit intermittent high voltage/dual alternator lower fault. I got the codes pulled at auto zone. I don't know if I need to get my car dyno tuned or something is wrong with the turbo?
Engine Mods:
Type r intake manifold
AEM fuel rail
B and M Fuel Pressure regulator set at 40 psi
apex'i vtec afc (not tuned left stock)
Greddy turbo kit
Skunk 2 cam gears (not tuned)
AEM power pulleys
MSD ignition 6
MSD blaster SS
Magnacore wires
Plugs BOSCH- one step colder than stock( for breaking in period)
Mugen exhaust 2.25 no resonator
I think that the blue box acts like an FMU to the FCU. I think it uses the map sensor for adding more fuel when boost is detected instead of using actual vacuum. I have a missing like but not installed.I would then I have no fmu to control fuel flow to boost. I'll check on my plugs tonight. I was also back firing when letting go of the gas.
backfire is from being too rich, try turning down the fpr
make sure the blue box is soldered in correctly, people always have problems with the blue box
read into everything that i write,,, greddy made that blue box for a reason,, that little blue box that everyone talks shit about is actually a very good device,, you just have toi use it within its limits, that blue box is great up to 8lbs.. if your gonna boost more than that then shit can it.. ive had hte greddy kit on my si since may. absolutely no problems. i threw a check engine light for a little bit then i went back and soldered all the wires for the blue box into my ecu, and no cel since.
if its telling you your runnnin too rich or too lean then go to a DYNO and have a qualified tuner either lean out or richen your fuel curve, dont do anything yourself unless you absolutely knwo what your doing.. someone elses setting on the vafc will not allways work on your car, you have different mods and beleive it or not every engine is different. regardless if we have the same car. listen to what in tell you and you will thank me in the long run, dont go getting rid of the blue box just yet , especially for another fmu, unless your going standalone like a hondata or dfi system..
get some dyno time and make sure all your connections are soldered and connected to the right wires on your blue box. trsut me.. i ahvbe the same car and same kit. and i have no problems.. its too bad i have to sell my car too.
good luck and treat your car right.
eddie
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I used to be 2000blacksi
2000 EBP si:GREDDY TURBO KIT, TRUST TYPE 31 INTERCOOLER, APEXI EL BOOST GAUGE, HKS SUPER SEQUENTIAL BOV, TRUST TURBO TIMER,OBX SHORT SHIFTER 6LBS. BOOST , GREDDY EVO CATBACK, SKUNK2 CAM GEARS,CUSCO FRONT AND REAR STRUT TOWER BARS, TOKICO ADJUSTABLES, TANABE SPRINGS, PANASONIC HEAD UNIT. 17IN KONIG BLATANTS IN BRONZE , PLUS MORE!
www.team-redline.com
1) Greddy designed the blue box to work alone, not with a V-AFC. That might be giving you problems. Try turning the V-AFC off to see if it helps.
2) DO NOT use the Missing Link with the Greddy blue box. The blue box takes care of the ECU from seeing boost, but need to signal from the stock map sensor to determine additional fuel to add. With the stock Greddy setup, you do not need the missing link, that would screw things up!
2000 EBP si:GREDDY TURBO KIT, TRUST TYPE 31 INTERCOOLER, APEXI EL BOOST GAUGE, HKS SUPER SEQUENTIAL BOV, TRUST TURBO TIMER,OBX SHORT SHIFTER 6LBS. BOOST , GREDDY EVO CATBACK, SKUNK2 CAM GEARS,CUSCO FRONT AND REAR STRUT TOWER BARS, TOKICO ADJUSTABLES, TANABE SPRINGS, PANASONIC HEAD UNIT. 17IN KONIG BLATANTS IN BRONZE , PLUS MORE!
www.team-redline.com
I figured out the check engine light code. The code pulled a code 13 (barometric sensor). In code 13 you got 3 catagories that a computer can tell you in more detail. I got a r1106 (defect sensor, a messed up line or detected some thing out of the ordinary) the other 2 codes are r1107 and r1108 ( one meanning too rich and the other too lean). These codes came from my Helmic Book. The book only tells how to treat the problem. Doesn't tell you where it is or what it looks like. It shows pictures and the ins and outs of other sensors.
Now the story is I solder all the wires including the Vafc. The check engine light stayied off longer. (thanks 2000bluesi). but It came back on and check engine light came on. The code gave the barometeric sensor code (13) diagonosised with paper clip trick . I was wondering if it has to do with tuning, air/fuel ratio, or the intake air is to hot that the atmospheric pressure is throwing the the code.
My guess is that I should just get it dynoed (at AEBS San Diego,CA) and drive moderatly (not past 4000). When I drove moderatly i didn't throw a code for a couple of days till I thought everything was fine a pushed that bad boy.
Also
I took the spark plugs out and they were dark red.
And the reason for running to rich because the vtec wire on the ecu cam out from installing the blue box. Thus running rich. Solved by soldering everything properly.
Originally posted by tyrant check your plugs for detonation, if your alright
get rid of the blue box
get dsm 450 or rc 440 injectors
change the fuel map on the vafc to -40 on both fuel maps
you should run good then
This is the stupidest idea I've heard yet........why not just using the Greddy computer so it runs like Greddy wanted it to????? Your car would idle like shit with injectors that big.
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92 Honda Prelude Si (The rombus)
greddy turbo check light help
Linear Mode
