I've found two useful threads on a different forum in accomplishing this task. I actually used their threads to install my turbotimer, however, I had to modify the wiring a little different from their schematics.
Here is
Syner-G-Racing's diagram:
And here is my diagram:
Hooking up the turbotimer is the same between the two diagrams:
1. red wire on turbotimer to white wire coming off of the ignition switch.
2. blue wire on turbotimer to yellow wire coming off of the ignition switch.
3. green wire on turbotimer to black/yellow wire coming off of the ignition switch.
4. black wire on turbotimer to chasis ground.
5. gray wire on turbotimer to pin 86 on the relay.
Now keep in mind, that you
are not cutting the ignition wires and connecting them to the turbotimer wires, you are just running the turbotimer wires
with the ignition wires. So just stripping a small portion of the ignition wires to expose them is necessary. You can either solder the turbotimer wires and the ignition wires together (recommended) or you can be lazy like me and just use wire tappers

. Or you can be really really lazy and just wrap the wires together and electrical tape them
The differences in Syner-G-Racing's diagram and my diagram lies in getting the alarm to coexist with the turbotimer. I started with my constant 12v source that is connected to the brain of my alarm (red wire coming off alarm in diagram). I just connected some extra wire I had laying around to that constant 12v, and ran it to pin 85 on the relay (
Nothing different here yet).
(Here is where it gets different from Syner-G-Racing's schematics)Next was the ignition wires that was connected to the brain of my alarm(yellow wire coming off alarm in diagram). Now on this wire,
I did cut it. The end of the wire that was coming off of the alarm was connected to pin 87a on the relay, and the other end of the wire was just taped up with electrical tape and not connected to anything at all.
Finally, the gray wire that comes off of the turbotimer, I had that directly connected to pin 86 on the relay.
If you notice, there are two assessory wires (blue and brown) I didnt' hook these up, and there really isn't a need to unless you want to use the extra options offered by the greddy turbo timer. But if you do want to use them, you can use
Syner-G-Racing's diagram.
In the end, on your relay, pin 30 and 87 are left open and unconnected to anything.
Yes I know on Syner-G-Racing's diagram, his pinout 30 is connected to the other end of the igntion wire that we had cut. But when I tried this, my alarm would not arm itself at all. Only when I just left pin 30 open and the ignition wire unconnected would my alarm arm itself.
Final impressions
In all, the job was an easy task. However, it took me almost 4-5 hours to get it completed due to 4-5 trips to autozone or walmart for parts that I didn't have or ran out of. Just make sure you have plenty of wire tappers, butt connectors, electrical tape, wire, wire crimps, solder, etc.
I also had to find a wiring diagram for my alarm in order to figure out which wires coming off of the brain were my ignition and constant 12v wires. Stuff like that can be found on google search which is where I found mine. Just type in the brand & model of the alarm, and the keywords (diagram, wiring, or maybe even wiring diagram). The brand of alarm I feel is irrelevant in terms of making the turbotimer coexist with the turbotimer. But if you guys are wondering, I am running the CrimeStopper SuperPage II alarm system.
I have had no issues so far. The radiator fan still comes on during the countdown. The alarm is capable of being armed during the countdown while the motor is running. The engine vibration does not set off my alarm, however, opening the door or an abrupt slap on the window, door, fender will still set it off

. I guess I just have the sensitivity set just right on my alarm
I am pretty sure that my schematics should work with any car, not just Honda's. The only thing you would have to figure out are which wires are what on your igniton switch since I am sure they color code their wires differently from Honda.
Finally! I would like to say thanks to
Syner-G-Racing and
2kturboex for their excellent job on providing the info.
Hope this helps anyone here

,
Khoi