is it a good idea for my to build my motor b4 i drop in the turbo or i should just drop in the turbo cause i know ls can handle boost very well with its stock internals
Originally posted by MDteg_se-t Just get some sort of fuel mangament and your set for up to 13psi unless your boosting all day long everywhere you go
hehe, good one...... (nothing personal, but that's just not true)
althought a standalone will help in making the engine not blow because of boost, internals are definitely a good idea at that high a level of forced induction.
b18c1eg2, basically decide your power goals and figure out your spending limit, then make decisions on what your set-up and engine management will be.
Originally posted by civperc hehe, good one...... (nothing personal, but that's just not true)
althought a standalone will help in making the engine not blow because of boost, internals are definitely a good idea at that high a level of forced induction.
b18c1eg2, basically decide your power goals and figure out your spending limit, then make decisions on what your set-up and engine management will be.
Actually it is true...just not safe/smart. My friend ran 13lbs on his ls for a year then his car got stolen and i know a number of other ls's that haul ass with stock internals, yes they do take care of their cars like i said just don't go boosting all day long. Since your looking to dump more money into it go ahead and get some rods/pistons to go along with the fuel managment but you said you wanna run 13's.. My friend that car got stolen ran a 12.9 with 3" d.p./exhaust and 555r's not saying yours will run that, some cars are just strong runners but its some inspiration. Most ls's i know are in the 13's with a t3/t4 kit and it being tuned so if i were you and doing internal work i'd be looking for 12's
Civperc is correct Although you can run 20lbs on a T3/T04 on a bone stock b18b... how long will it last? For a reliable daily driver you need to develop an intelligent strategy and follow it. You can't just throw a cheap engine management setup on there and boost 13lbs because you heard someone's friend did it. There are so many variables to be accounted for that general rules like that really do not apply. Skip the DRAG kit, you will need to upgrade too many parts on it for it to be a very cost effective purchase in the long run. There are far better options out there for your goals. I would get 550cc+ injectors(<$300), a Walbro 255lph High Flow In Tank Pump($100), and a Hondata/EMS/SpeedPro/etc(price varies)... Don't waste money on deltagates, FMUs, inline fuel pumps, small injectors, etc.. You will just be spending more when you have to upgrade them, not to mention endangering your engine with poor/improper products while they are in there. Engine management and tuning are more important than internals for your goals, don't skimp in that department. A poorly tuned engine will blow, whether it has eagle rods and JE pistons or stock internals... A properly tuned setup with a stock block should be able to handle 300whp reliably as long as the engine is in good condition. You can always get a properly tuned setup and run around 10lbs on the stock block until you can save up for a fully built and sleeved block. People that jump in sometimes get over their head and often blow their engines, have patience and you will be far more likely to be happy with the outcome and spend less money in the process. Rule of thumb, keep an extra $750 in the bank in case you blow your engine
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Actually i was correct you just basiclly said everythng i did but longer..when i say fuel managment i was not talking about cheap setups i was just saying it can be done PERIOD and its not safe/smart. Not just a friend..i know about 10 people that do the same exact thing as was i until mine got totaled. NAHy:
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Although you can run 20lbs on a T3/T04 on a bone stock b18b... how long will it last? For a reliable daily driver you need to develop an intelligent strategy and follow it. You can't just throw a cheap engine management setup on there and boost 13lbs because you heard someone's friend did it. There are so many variables to be accounted for that general rules like that really do not apply. Skip the DRAG kit, you will need to upgrade too many parts on it for it to be a very cost effective purchase in the long run. There are far better options out there for your goals. I would get 550cc+ injectors(<$300), a Walbro 255lph High Flow In Tank Pump($100), and a Hondata/EMS/SpeedPro/etc(price varies)... Don't waste money on deltagates, FMUs, inline fuel pumps, small injectors, etc.. You will just be spending more when you have to upgrade them, not to mention endangering your engine with poor/improper products while they are in there. Engine management and tuning are more important than internals for your goals, don't skimp in that department. A poorly tuned engine will blow, whether it has eagle rods and JE pistons or stock internals... A properly tuned setup with a stock block should be able to handle 300whp reliably as long as the engine is in good condition. You can always get a properly tuned setup and run around 10lbs on the stock block until you can save up for a fully built and sleeved block. People that jump in sometimes get over their head and often blow their engines, have patience and you will be far more likely to be happy with the outcome and spend less money in the process. Rule of thumb, keep an extra $750 in the bank in case you blow your engine 
y:
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