IDK, I have used the NGK's, and now Autolite platnums in my car, and I have not seen any problems or diffrence with both.
Granted my car is cloce to stock, but to me, unless you really have a lot of money invested into the built motor, i doubt you will see a diffrence. Not saying NGK's are bad, I would use them again, but some plugs cost less and perform the same, so why not? I wouldn't say you have to use these plugs, I would say use platnum plugs and such, but I don't think brand makes too much of a diffrence unless it's some shitty brand x plug.
what about bosch super 4 four-electrode plugs? is it good for our hondas? i have a d16y8
Bosch are used to making improvements in design, but this is a revolutionary breakthrough that is totally unique.
The Super-4 outperforms conventional spark plugs in every situation. It uses state-of-the-art 'surface-air-gap' technology, and features four thin ground electrodes with one pointed, silver-plated centre electrode. This enables the ignition spark to choose the best path for reliable ignition, and according to the load placed on the engine.
The Advantages:
Increased acceleration
Less chance of misfiring
Better cold start performance
Increased engine efficiency
The BOSCH design Surface Air Gap is simmilar to the old school Side Gapping a Plug
The side effect of Side Gapping is shorter plug life... with metals like platinum you can extend the life of the plug.
Now as for performance, the Bosch tends to foul out, I beleive this could be because of a improper heat range being listed for the motor(s). Also Platinum is not as conductive as copper. The proper heat range will keep the plug at a high temp to prevent fouling but not so hot to be a source of pre-ignition... The platinums seems to stop fouling once the motor has had a few good runs.
Denso and NGK understand our motors better, and what heat range they require... I for the life of me can't find a different heat range for my +4's.
However I'm given 3 options of heat ranges when I select a Denso or NGK plug. There is no way for me to tell if I can't try out a different heat range on the +4 so I wont say they are crap just yet.
hrm looks like the "SUPER" +4's are even more like the side gap then the original +4's. Plus they use silver this time. May be worth a shot to try the new ones out... still I would like to see at least 3 different heat ranges available for my motor.
Thank you for the post! I own a 97 Prelude Base and I think I'll go for the Denso Iridium plug, but I was searching the net for infos on the Nology Silver Spark Plugs. Anyone have infos ont these plugs?
On Nology's site they say silver is the best electrical and thermal conductor of any metal.
If a rely on the last threads, this can mean they may not last as long as the Platinium or iridium plugs but can deal with more power! Right?
I just want to know what can be the best for my naturally aspired 97 lude. Thanks
when i first got some ngk iridium ix for my car, i snapped 3 of the electrodes trying to gap them. i took them back and got new ones for free, but adjusted them anyway without breaking them. its good to know now you arent supposed to do that. my current ones are a regular ngk iridium, i didnt adjust those tho.
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Just get the denso iridiums. Smaller electrode also if you read the article you would have learned , electricity conduction isnt the key. Its the smaller electrode that can get hotter and iridium can handle the heat at a very small size which makes its a better spark ignition.
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Hey guys just saw this post and wanted to clear some things up.
The BPR series will not work as they have a larger 13/16 socket size
If running a smaller .028-38" gap then drop the -11 off the plug part numbers. This will give the plugs an out of the box gap of .032" instead of the much larger .044". Keep in mind I do not recommend gapping a plug up or down more than about .008" from where it comes gapped at out of the box as the center firing and ground electrodes will not be properly aligned and can cause early plug failure as well as poor performance especially in boosted applications.
Also remember when gapping any fine wire plug to not apply any pressure to the center firing electrode as it can be easily damaged and is not warranted.
Also the use of anti-seize is NOT recommended or needed regardless of what you may have heard
Tightening torque is rediculously important! tighten to 18-21.6 ft lbs or finger tight plug 1/2 to 2/3 turn
Platinum is still not recommended for nitrous applications although it is fine for boosted applications
Iridium works extremely well for nitrous applications due to its high melting and oxidation points
I am unsure why MSD does not recommend the use of precious metal plugs. I have been on their forums and have seen where they advise not to use them but the only reasons they listed was that the plugs “burn to hot” I am unsure what they mean by this, and I can tell you that we have never had a plug come back that was damaged or failed because of an aftermarket ignition system. We have many, many racers that use MSD systems and other high power aftermarket ignitions with our iridium and also platinum plugs without issue.
I cannot see how the iridium plugs would not hold up or burn up quicker with their ignition systems, as iridium has a 2000 degree higher melting and oxidation point than standard nickel-iron alloy (commonly referred to as copper). It is also nearly twice as hard and twice as strong as nickel. All of our plugs are copper cored The ground electrode of the plug is still standard nickel-iron alloy with a taper cut that helps to un shield the flame and promote faster and more complete combustion and this is the point that will wear out first on these plugs.
Although platinum is about six times softer than iridium and also about eight times weaker it still has a much higher melting point (about 700D F) than standard nickel with a higher oxidation point. The oxidation point is what directly affects spark plug wear, this is why platinum plugs last much longer and erode away at a much slower rate than nickel iron alloy plugs.
I have also heard rumors that because of the smaller diameter the precious metal plugs use causes the tip to become so hot that it can cause pre ignition and detonation. Although the spark will be more concentrated at this smaller point to promote better spark concentration it will also cool down at a much faster rate (every time the intake valve opens and the air/fuel charge rushes in) than a larger standard 2.5mm center diameter electrode with much more mass (4 times larger).
I would also think that most any performance ignition system installed from the factory today, like the new corvettes coil on plug system for instance probably puts out just as much voltage (40-50,000) if not more than an MSD 6A system and 99 percent of these cars come equipped from the factory with iridium or platinum plugs without issue.
If you ever have any questions or need a recommendation feel free to call me at my desk at 248 926 6315 or call 877 473 6767 option 2
Brandon Peeler
Technical Support Representative
Aftermarket division
NGK Spark Plugs USA
Go to www.pulstarplug.com ....its new stuff i havent got them but im gonna. they are like 25 a piece though
Let us know what you find. I would be very skeptical of this company's claims though as this is a small company that probably doesn't have much in the way of a budget for R&D the way large companies like NGK, Denso, Bosch, Autolite, etc do.
NGK for instance has engineers and technical centers across the world doing continuous research and development on plugs and new concepts and designs, so I would imagine if something like this type of technology actually worked, one of the major companies would already be implementing it and selling it to the OEM's for way more money than they could get in the aftermarket. From what I take in, it looks like great advertising and good marketing techniques. There are really no good enforced laws against outrageous claims in the aftermarket in the united states.
Im new to this forum and I have a stock 2000 Accord. Ive read thru this..alot of spark plugs have been brought up. What would be best for my 2.3L accord?
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Ok, I have a problem on my 1998 CR-V B20B4. I replaced the plugs with some cheapos to try and stop a tick, well, now I believe the tick may just be burnt valves and I want to change my spark plugs, problem is, the rubber extension that goes between the cam is, what seems to be, suctioned on! I cannot get a good enough grip to pull it off and I do not want to tear the rubber apart or pull a cable. Any advice will help! Thanks.
Hello There,
I have a 2006 Civic Si that I'm finishing installing an AJPerformance Turbo Kit. I would like to know which NGK iridium should I use. I was thinking in BKR7EIX-11 but i have my doubts on the .044 gap.Do I use them or go for another BKR with less gap?? Which gap could be recommended?
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