The distributor's cap and rotor need to be replaced when the rotor and terminals in the cap have become worn/corroded and prevent enough electric charge to pass trough the spark plug wires to the spark plugs (you can brush the corrosion off with a wirebrush). This preventive maintenance will improve combustion and help your car feel "smoother" among other things. Note: the following procedure was performed on a 3rd gen integra but it will be similar on other hondas.
Materials: new cap and rotor from your local auto parts store (the cap normally comes with new retaining screws and a new seal, if it doesn't use your old ones). Tools needed: phillips screwdriver, 8mm wrench, 10mm wrench, pliers(may not need this).
Step 1: This is not really necesary but to be safe I like to disconnect the battery, plus it resets your ECU. Use your 10mm wrench to losen the battery terminals (negative then positive) and disconnect them.
Step 2: Unplug the spark plug wires from the cylinder head (NOT the distributor!)
Step 3: Proceed to remove the distributor cap by unscrewing the retaining bolts with your phillips screwdriver.....
....or you can also use the 8mm wrench.
The lower bolt is kind of hard to get to so I took my intake tube off, this also gives you more room to work with.
After removing the cap you will see the ROTOR
Step 4: Under the rotor there is a screw, remove it (rotor has to be in a certain position to do this)....
....or if the rotor didn't "land" on the right position to unscrew it, or if you're like me and stripped it, brake the rotor off with some pliers, then you can get to the screw by removing the little cover with the spring, make sure you replace the cover afterwards.
I had to use a needle nose to loosen the stripped screw.
Step 5: Remove the rotor (or what's left of it) from the distributor shaft.
Step 6: Install new rotor, don't worry about messing up, it can only go in one way.
Step 7: Reinstall rotor screw.
NOTE: If you stripped your screw you're gonna have to improvise until you can get a replacement one. I used one of the new screws that came with the new cap (luckily it had the same threading), although is twice the lenght its working fine so far but I wouldn't recommend it, I don't know what can happen.
Step 8: Remove the old seal and replace with the new one.
Here is a comparison of the two caps, notice the worn terminals on the old cap.
Step 9: Relocate the spark plug wires on the new cap one by one in the same order as the old cap. These wires need to go in a specific sequence so if you removed them and don't know where they go refer to the picture below for the correct order. The correct firing order is 1-3-4-2 so starting clockwise from the bottom left of the cap is 1. On a SOHC motor the #1 is at the top left, same firing order.
Step 10: Install the new cap (tighten the screws hand tight, you don't want the plastic to break, but not loose either).
Step 11: Replace the spark plug wires on the engine. Here is the firing order for reference.
Step 12: Reinstall the battery cables (positive then negative), and all other equipment you may have taken off.
Step 13: Start your car and let it idle for a few minutes.
Do you know anyone or have you seen any articles regarding engine swaps (i.e. B18C, D16Y8) for a D165? Mine has exceeded its predicted Mean-Time-Failure rate. I am using too much damn oil and I want a higher performing engine.
Originally posted by radicalrider Do you know anyone or have you seen any articles regarding engine swaps (i.e. B18C, D16Y8) for a D165? Mine has exceeded its predicted Mean-Time-Failure rate. I am using too much damn oil and I want a higher performing engine.
Please keep it on topic, this is the wrong forum to ask that question but I'll help you anyway. Go to the HYBRID/JDM forum in here, it should have what you need to know about that. Here is a start: Putting engine x in car y...
as a note to that if the rotor screw doesnt land in the right position turn key for one second then turn it off untill its in hte right position
You can do that if you want but it'll take you hours to get it right... why do that when you could just break the rotor off? you're gonna replace it anyway. Another less simple way of doing this is by turning the crank until it lines up right but I don't recommend it.
Mods: Wings West Body kit, AEM cold air intake, DC Sports 4;2;1 Header, B&M shifter, 17" ENKEI wheels, KYB struts, Neuspeed Springs, Street Glow Underbody neons, Int. neons, 7" TV screen, PS2, Tenzo R Racing seats, Alpine CD player, 12" kicker subs etc.
where can i find the internal distributor seal im having trouble. the seal that the shaft slides through?
I just replaced mine the other weekend. My screw was stripped so that was a major bitch, but other then that it's totally easy, pretty much self explanitory.
__________________
PFC USAR - Light Weight Vehicle Mechanic
83 RX7 GSL
99 CMB Prelude Type-SH - Type-S swapped
08 YZFR1 Autocross is for drivers.
Drag racing is for cars.
If your'e inclined enough... on the Red X, right click, go to properties, then copy the url, past it into your address, and go. The picture should be there.
__________________
PFC USAR - Light Weight Vehicle Mechanic
83 RX7 GSL
99 CMB Prelude Type-SH - Type-S swapped
08 YZFR1 Autocross is for drivers.
Drag racing is for cars.
About the Rotor not being in the proper position, I got this tip from D-series.org
"If you cannot see the screw, feel for it and find out where it is. Put the car into gear and rock it back and forth. You will notice the rotor start to move. Do this until you see the screw. This is faster than turning the crank."
edit: if you know where i am from...[OT SHO]
you'll learn not to do so
Damn that was a long time ago when SHO didn't have image hosting, so the pics are with imagestation, I haven't used imagestation in years and I'm surprised those pics still work...
About the Rotor not being in the proper position, I got this tip from D-series.org
"If you cannot see the screw, feel for it and find out where it is. Put the car into gear and rock it back and forth. You will notice the rotor start to move. Do this until you see the screw. This is faster than turning the crank."
Anyone try this yet?
Is it really that hard to just brake the old rotor off?
Anyhow I did try to move the car but the rotor didn't seem to spin at all, so I broke it off instead.. initially I didn't want to break anything for fear or something going wrong, but it was as ez as pie.
ive turned the rotor so i can get to the screw like 5 time in the past 2 days. its not difficult. but if you wanna take some stress out on the rotor for having to replace it go ahead. Turning the rotor only takes a few seconds either do it in short increments or have someone watch it for you. breaking it off is fine but i just want everyone to know that its not difficult to get the screw in the correct spot.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
