What about an external coil?
If you know that is, I know the caps for those have one extra input, do you attach a power wire to one end of the cap, and a negative, then attach a wire b/w the cap and the ... omfg what am i talking about
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imshirazy
What about an external coil?
If you know that is, I know the caps for those have one extra input, do you attach a power wire to one end of the cap, and a negative, then attach a wire b/w the cap and the ... omfg what am i talking about
yeah i know what an external coil is, they are quite polular on older american cars annnnd are old tech, yes i can and have wired them, ive rewired entire cars.........but anyways, still no offense to anyone seriously im not trying to be a dick..........smartass at most
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so fuckin blow those words out the back of your head, ive heard it all and im done with that shit
Mods: civic stock, custom adio bodykit for shoebaru's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imshirazy
Oh no I wasn't asking or attacking you specifically lol
I'm just saying I want to get one and I want to be completely sure i know what i'm doing
cool sorry if i came across as a dick i dont mean to and i didnt mean to attack anyone by what i wrote in here, as far as you external coil setup, just follow the instructions that come with it its fairly simple
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so fuckin blow those words out the back of your head, ive heard it all and im done with that shit
Unless you have some mechanical default with your distributor cap and/or rotor then you shouldn't need to replace either. Their designed to have an understandable amount of wear while still allowing the most optimal transference of potential difference to the plug.
I realize that both parts are relatively inexpensive, but what reason would you follow the books recommended maintenance only because it tells you to change out the part. In order for the parts to show any recognizable signs of duress through engine performance, you would have to have a faulty part or mechanical issue which then worries me of other, more important, engine issues. I wonder how much you would allow your wallet to be raped simply because the dealer told you any procedure was recommended.
Unless you have some mechanical default with your distributor cap and/or rotor then you shouldn't need to replace either. Their designed to have an understandable amount of wear while still allowing the most optimal transference of potential difference to the plug.
I realize that both parts are relatively inexpensive, but what reason would you follow the books recommended maintenance only because it tells you to change out the part. In order for the parts to show any recognizable signs of duress through engine performance, you would have to have a faulty part or mechanical issue which then worries me of other, more important, engine issues. I wonder how much you would allow your wallet to be raped simply because the dealer told you any procedure was recommended.
Ok, first of all umm who the fuck are you?
Second, you have to be a newb to not know when and why you need to replace wear and tear parts such as this.
Third, this particular part does not usually need to be replaced often, and is inexpensive. So your "wallet rape" theory is just dumb, if you take it to a dealer to get this procedure done then you deserve your wallet to get raped as it is a simple procedure, not much more difficult than replacing a spare tire...
This thread is designed to help begginers understand how this part works, and help them with installation/removal, NOT to give a specific interval for replacing the part.
Also I wrote this almost 4yrs ago so gimme a break.
If this room was only about installation then why would you show before and after pictures of the parts? You did put in comments concerning reasons as to why it should be changed. I was just elaborating to help the "Newbs" understand "why you need to replace ... parts like this". They should be made aware that if their cap and rotor are truly in significant need of replacement then they should look towards other issues as to the cause other than simple wear and tear which would not give just cause for replacement.
For example.. A cylinder wall within the engine can be worn, but unless there's some other major mechanical issue, then it would not have to be replaced or have pistons replace simply because it is worn. If you have reason to change the pistons or sheath the cylinders then the mechanic should look for the cause of that realizing that normal wear and tear would not be the issue.
If you understood what I was saying about the "wallet raping" then you would know that I wasn't just talking about the cap and rotor, but "All recommended dealer replacement services".
You can do that if you want but it'll take you hours to get it right... why do that when you could just break the rotor off? you're gonna replace it anyway. Another less simple way of doing this is by turning the crank until it lines up right but I don't recommend it.
if you have someone there they can watch the rotor to see if it's aligned correctly. it took me less than 30 seconds to get it. i don't know about breaking the rotor off with pliers but if u got no choice then i guess it's ok. the hard part about replacing the rotor is that fucking screw. it's such a bitch to get it loose. like a lot of u i also stripped the shit out of it. i had to use a drill to make new screw slots. then i was able to take it off with a flathead screw driver. i replaced it with a new screw.
Mods: Came with: ebay intake, catback exhaust racing seats. I put on currently: 15" "Drags" Black with polished lip wrapped in khumo tires, Hyper Amber Corner Lamps, Amber city lights
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95integrars
if you have someone there they can watch the rotor to see if it's aligned correctly. it took me less than 30 seconds to get it. i don't know about breaking the rotor off with pliers but if u got no choice then i guess it's ok. the hard part about replacing the rotor is that fucking screw. it's such a bitch to get it loose. like a lot of u i also stripped the shit out of it. i had to use a drill to make new screw slots. then i was able to take it off with a flathead screw driver. i replaced it with a new screw.
thats what i do when i replace the rotor, just let someone watch it
If this room was only about installation then why would you show before and after pictures of the parts? You did put in comments concerning reasons as to why it should be changed. I was just elaborating to help the "Newbs" understand "why you need to replace ... parts like this". They should be made aware that if their cap and rotor are truly in significant need of replacement then they should look towards other issues as to the cause other than simple wear and tear which would not give just cause for replacement.
For example.. A cylinder wall within the engine can be worn, but unless there's some other major mechanical issue, then it would not have to be replaced or have pistons replace simply because it is worn. If you have reason to change the pistons or sheath the cylinders then the mechanic should look for the cause of that realizing that normal wear and tear would not be the issue.
If you understood what I was saying about the "wallet raping" then you would know that I wasn't just talking about the cap and rotor, but "All recommended dealer replacement services".
You are comparing a cylinder wall (with is NOT considered a "wear and tear" part) with a distributor cap... I rest my case.
if you have someone there they can watch the rotor to see if it's aligned correctly. it took me less than 30 seconds to get it. i don't know about breaking the rotor off with pliers but if u got no choice then i guess it's ok. the hard part about replacing the rotor is that fucking screw. it's such a bitch to get it loose. like a lot of u i also stripped the shit out of it. i had to use a drill to make new screw slots. then i was able to take it off with a flathead screw driver. i replaced it with a new screw.
At the time, I was going by my experiences with that... I tried to land it on the right spot by bliping the starter, it took too long plus I don't like to overwork it. Breaking the top of the rotor does 2 things for you: 1) it's quicker and 2) it gives you better leverage on the screw to minimize stripping.
Mods: Came with: ebay intake, catback exhaust racing seats. I put on currently: 15" "Drags" Black with polished lip wrapped in khumo tires, Hyper Amber Corner Lamps, Amber city lights
turn it and take a look only takes like 5 or so tries
turn it and take a look only takes like 5 or so tries
Hm it took me longer... I just think that if you have the replacement rotor right there, and you are not going to need the old one, it's 5x easier/faster to just break it off (going by your method).
crank over method = 5 tries
break off method = 1 try
... yep.
And if you want to do it by the book, you are supposed to take the wheel off, splash cover, and turn the crank pulley (in the correct direction) until it lines up, I'm offering a simpler and more efficient way to do this.
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