DIY distributor CAP & ROTOR replacement

[OblivionLord]

Originally Posted by Cautela

You are comparing a cylinder wall (with is NOT considered a "wear and tear" part) with a distributor cap... I rest my case.

Since a cylinder wall is not indefinite and does wear then exactly what do you consider to be a "wear and tear" part?

[Cautela]

Originally Posted by OblivionLord

Since a cylinder wall is not indefinite and does wear then exactly what do you consider to be a "wear and tear" part?

Brake pads, spark plugs, tires, dizzy cap and rotor, oil, coolant, power steer/brake fluid, transmission fluid, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, wiper blades, timing belt, A/C compressor belt, alternator belt, battery, etc. are all "wear and tear" things in your car that are expected to need replacement at certain times.

Parts such as a cylinder wall are not expected to require replacement during the life of an engine, and therefore not considered "wear and tear"... get it now?

[OblivionLord]

"cylinder wall are not expected to require replacement during the life of an engine"

This is an untrue statement. As I said before.. a Cylinder Wall is not indefinite therefore it will wear as well as Pistons, Valves, Crankshaft, Rods, etc etc which also are all moving parts that are expected to be replaced the older the engine gets.

If a Valve is bad.. do you just trash the whole engine? Of course not. You replace it.

[Cautela]

Originally Posted by OblivionLord

"cylinder wall are not expected to require replacement during the life of an engine"

This is an untrue statement. As I said before.. a Cylinder Wall is not indefinite therefore it will wear as well as Pistons, Valves, Crankshaft, Rods, etc etc which also are all moving parts that are expected to be replaced the older the engine gets.

If a Valve is bad.. do you just trash the whole engine? Of course not. You replace it.

Hence the term "expected" to need replacement...

I don't think I'm going to get through to you kid. Please continue to dwell in your blissful ignorance. /

[OblivionLord]

...

[OblivionLord]

"Hence the term "expected" to need replacement"

As I also said above dealing with an expected replacement inside the engine.

Your views are clearly different than mine. If you just follow the books suggested interval changes for preventable maintenance or take the word from a certified tech for all the little things that they consider to be replaced over time then your going to run into unnecessary expenses.

Now I'll re quote my second post on this thread which is the whole reason why I had to respond.

"They should be made aware that if their cap and rotor are truly in significant need of replacement then they should look towards other issues as to the cause other than simple wear and tear which would not give just cause for replacement."

[sharpie_7]

jeez...
I replaced mine, cranked it about 4 times.
If i have the option of breaking something to fix it or not breaking something I will try the clean method first. Takes less than 5 min either way. Theres no right way to do it. To each his own

[95integrars]

you can do it whatever way u want as long as you're not damaging the distributor or surrounding parts.

[itrcivic]

I agree with everyone else this should not be that much trouble at all. but if everyone is having a hard time with it as some seem. you could always mark a line on the distributor to the top of the head. remove the distributor with all three 12mm bolts and turn it by hand. then when your done just put it back on the engine and line the 2 lines back up together so that way you will not have to re-time the engine. thats not the easiest rout but it would sure make it easier to line up than putting the car in gear and rocking it back and forth.