Honda and Acura Car Forums banner

95 Vx / K20a2 tear down / Build UP thread! HUNDREDS of pics!!

168K views 1K replies 112 participants last post by  Thorgs 
#1 ·
:cheers: Welcome to my 95 Vx / K20a2 build thread :cheers:

Started: January 02, 2007
1st drive: September 15th, 2007.
Completion: When she's at 375+whp :wow

Major props to these 2 guys (SneezinCD5 & pipfrost) :bow:
Would of never made it to the 2007 ATL Nopi Nationals if it weren't for them :hug :w00tz :number1

pipfrost: My father who took 2weeks away from work and his life at home to help me build this hatchback in 11 days from the ground up. Yes, my dad is AWESOME!! :worship:

SneezinCD5: Responsible for laying the midori green paint. Also, helped the few days before the Nationals. A lot of you know him, his work, and reputation behind it all :ninja :number1 If you don't know him (Jason) or his work....check it out > > HERE!!

**Click the pics for larger view**

March 30, 2008 - Commerce, GA; ATL dragway Nopi show

Left to Right:
Fuster_Cluck - Best of Show (Honda)
1_fly_si - 2nd place (Honda)
SneezinCD5 - 1st place (Honda)
Brad - 1st place (JDM)






2007 Nopi Nationals ATLanta Motor Speedway

Me & pops Sept. 15th, 2007 - - - - - Me & Jason Sept. 16th, 2007 - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2nd place

:hugs: :hugs:



:ninja Updating the glossary as I get time :ninja

**Table of contents**
Page 1: (118 pics)
-- Bumper, hood, fenders, headlights, doors removed
-- Dashboard removed
-- Heater core, A/C blower removed
-- firewall mat removed
-- SRS unit removed
-- Windshield wiper system removed
-- Rear hatch interior wire tuck
-- Dome light removed,
-- Looking to relocate fuse box into dash
-- Some of sneezincd5's work (paint)
-- Door breakdown & glue removal w/ dry ice (failure)
-- Complete A/C system removed
-- Wire tuck begins
-- Disconnecting everything from the motor to pull shortly.
-- Motor pulled & Exhaust removed
-- Horn assembly removed
-- Hood latch and cable removed
Page 2: 40 pics)
-- Interior wiring removed
-- 1st K series part purchased --> Karcept's shifter kit plate
-- Charcoal canister removed
-- most brake lines removed
-- EGR valve removed
-- Master cylinder removed
-- Fuel filter removed
-- Clutch reservoir removed

Page 3:

Page 4:

Page 5:

Page 6:

Page 7:

Page 8:

Page 9:

Page 10:

Page 11:

Page 12:

Page 13:

Page 14:

Page 15:

Page 16:

Page 17:

Page 18:

Page 19:

Page 20:

Page 21:

Page 22:

Page 23:

Page 24:

Page 25:

Page 26:

Page 27:

Page 28:

Page 29:

Page 30:

Page 31:

Page 32:

Page 33:

Page 34:

Page 35:

Page 36:

Page 37:

Page 38:

Page 39:

Page 40:

Page 41:

Page 42:

Page 43:

Page 44:

Page 45:

Page 46:

Page 47:

Page 48:

Page 49:

Page 50:

Page 51:

Page 52:

Page 55: 7 pics

Page 56: 6 pics

Page 57: 33 pics

Page 60: 11 pics

Here's what I am working with:



I took about 20 measurements of the hood to fender, fender to door, rear quarter panel to door, etc.... I want everything back the way it was before removal :p



Most bolts went back in the thread on the chasis and the rest will be stored like so:



It was tough at times, but I did it all myself. Well, me and buddy Jack....



How she sits at the end of day 1:
(Love my xenon house lights :number1 )



Thanks for looking :)
 
See less See more
10
#52 ·
Putney said:
Completely awsome, this will come in handy when I do my K swap in August. I just love seeing pics of the work in progress, it makes you reallize what it took to make a car look great. I hope you end up in a magazine or something.
Crazy Props. :w00tz
Thanks for the props!! :w00tz
Wish my fiance would say something like that about the car :bash

Thanks to everyone else who has given props / rep points :number1

Enough chit chat time to post some work.....

Here is some pics when I removed the sound deadning material back in November 2006:







Is it ok to remove the brown glue or is that a sealer? Should I just clean it up really well, hit it with some sand paper lightly, and paint over it?? (Pic below)



Pass side removed:



Turned out to be like 9-11 pounds.
 
  • Like
Reactions: quikflip27
#53 ·
Ok, spent a lot of time in the garage today, snapped a lot of pics, and feel like I accomplished a good bit.

How do you remove the hood lever clip without damaging it?
I may go with hood dampners, but not 100% yet.



Reminder that I need to really clean this car up:



4 bolts / 1 cotter pin to remove the brake booster:




Then I remembered I should start draining the gas from the tank while it's early. So I just loosened the drain plug just enough to get a stream going:



Removing the clutch slave cylinder.
2 bolts / 1 cotter pin to remove the assembly:



Brake booster / clutch cylinder removed:
Paint is blingin' underneath :eek:



Undercarriage is reall nasty. Goal is to clean it up really well and apply some type of overcoat.

Dropping the gas tank:

Remove the banjo bolt and disconnect the hose:



After I drained the tank I placed a jack in the center and dropped the 2 straps that secure the tank:



Then I removed the 3 plastic covers that protect the fuel system / fill up neck:
(one of the 3)



I loosened this bolt to disconnect the filler neck from the tank:



Panels removed and filler neck exposed:



Further up the filler neck:



Remove the (4) 10mm bolts to release the filler neck. Pull the grommet out and the neck drops down with the tank:



Bottom of the tank:



Really nasty, but that will change:

 
#54 ·
Steering rack removal:

Remove tie rod ends:
(mine are screwed and will be replaced w/ new ones)



4 bolts secure the rack to the crossmember:



Here are the bolts removed:



Remove the cotter pin and slide the bolt out and remove steering rack:



Crossmember removal:

5 bolts on each side to remove:
(All 5 are shown in the pic below)



Big a$$ bolts that hold the crossmember:



Remove the (2) 14mm suspension bolts as well as the (2) 17mm upper control arm bolts and the crossmember is ready to be removed:



There are quite a few 10mm bolts that hold the brake/fuel line assembly that runs to the rear of the vehicle:





Just pulled the plastic clip off the stud to release the lines:



Rear brake/fuel lines removed:



Charcoal canister exit release:



Underview:



Then I removed all the grommets from the bay. Must of been 12:



And it's time for a good cleaning / prepping for paint in the bay:



Cleaned the fenderwells a while back. I am going to put some overcoat all in there:



Thanks for looking :)
 
#60 ·
Session 016.

Worked mostly with the rear of the vehicle. Pretty much finished removing the rear wiring, hatch glass, hatch door, tail lights, bumper, etc.....

First thing I did was removed my JDMSh!t duckbill.

To remove the hatch glass just remove the (4) 10mm nuts:



Up close of one side:



Then it was time to remove the tail lights:

(4) 8mm bolts per light:



Underneath still clean from April 2006 detailing. Damn right:



Inner tail(s) has 4 bolts as well:



Did not remove the hatch gasket/seal because I was not sure exactly how it was held in place. I have learned that it's just held by glue and should pull right off without any problems:



Close up of the rubber:
It's on there really well



These clips are for the panels that will never make it back to my car. They were a major PITA to remove. I never did figure out how to remove them with ease. I just squeezed and pulled with 2 sets of pliers:



Then I removed the hatch release:



Removed the latch and release lever:



I pulled and pulled on the damn tail gate harness and then realized why it would not come out. Damn license plate lights:



Remove the bolts shown to remove the tail gate from the car:



Disconnecting the fuel door release wire:



Pop the little ring off:



Took me a while to figure out how to remove the black lever. It's really simple once you know what to do. Simply go inside the hatch area to the lever, grab ahold and twist to the left and it will come right out like so:



Might as well remove the door:



Removing the last line:



Entire rear wiring harness wrapped up and ready for install one day in the future:



What the hell is the plastic cup thing for?? Hatch leakage??



My Lowes rear bumper hardware:

 
#61 ·
Screw that holds the Vx drivers side wind difuser in place:



Hatch removed, and then I removed the 2 bolts to remove the latches:



Removed the 4 grommets that are around the rear bumper:



Side skirt clip:



Rotate to remove:



I need some advice on how to remove this piece. It's the metal piece that sits in the middle of the car which allows the back seat to fold up and down. I will not ever have a back seat again, so I would like to remove this piece:



spot welds?:





A better view of the piece:



Back to the front of the car I went. Got outside and this fool started messing with me. I walked away for a few and when I came back he was back. So, let this be a warning to all the haters..... don't be another statisitic for messing with me or my hatch :hehe



I can't go all out with new interior and engine bay paint and leave the crossmember as is. So I decided to go to work on it:



Remove the one bolt and basically it's dismantled:



Further back view of the bolt:



Dismantled for cleaning:



Left = Clean!
Right = Not!







Still not clean enough so I will be putting a nice coat of paint on the assembly!!

Neighbors got to love seeing this all the time, lol:



Then I was like how the hell am I going to move the hatch now without anything up front. Answer:



Interior ready to start prepping for paint (as soon as I remove the rubber hatch seal):



I'm not messing with the wiring under the dash. Since I am not doing a color change I am leaving them as is and will just tape everything off. However, I will be removing the pedal assemblies so I can get the paint up as high as possible:



Another view:



Thanks for looking and I hoped you enjoyed all the pics. I know a lot of the pics are useless, but I love using the camera.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fl05civic
#63 ·
Dude I can seriously tell you that when you are done, if you ever misplace the list of how things come back, you'll thank your self for loving the camera, this is so detailed that I can probably recall where you put every bolt you took of the car (not really) but you get the idea. Love the work, keep at it, hope the miss don't throw a hissy fit for all the mess you are making. :p
 
#64 ·
Also checked out that harbor freight site, and I can't believe how cheap things are there, just a question for you though, how's the quality on them? I mean since you have all this hands on experience with them, I'm already looking to get the Leak down & compression testers from them, as well as other few things.
 
#69 ·
Eli'sEG94 said:
Also checked out that harbor freight site, and I can't believe how cheap things are there, just a question for you though, how's the quality on them? I mean since you have all this hands on experience with them, I'm already looking to get the Leak down & compression testers from them, as well as other few things.
i have not used anything from harbor freight that i like

but you cant beat their prices, if shit breaks, just buy another one
 
#72 ·
oh no, dont use anything to pry out. Use a step-bit and drill out the spot weld, thats the whole point of drilling out the spot weld.

harbor freight tools do have goods and bads. best thing ive bought from there is a 48" wide roller tool box thats only 400bucks, as oppose to craftsman pro thats 3000bucks.
 
#74 ·
profuse007 said:
oh no, dont use anything to pry out. Use a step-bit and drill out the spot weld, thats the whole point of drilling out the spot weld.

harbor freight tools do have goods and bads. best thing ive bought from there is a 48" wide roller tool box thats only 400bucks, as oppose to craftsman pro thats 3000bucks.
yea, my 48' snap on box cost a lil more than 400 bux :hehe
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top