A few things to look at for getting started with a performance plan. You might be in a different category so read which one you will be in.
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Levels Stage I Stage II Stage III Stage IV Stage V Stage VI Stage VII Gains
Free Home-made Plan Home Made intake and K+N
2-5hp
Hand Port and Polish exhaust ports
1-2hp
Polish Throttle Body
1-2hp
Advance Timing
1-3hp
Hollow Cat / Weld-In Test Pipe.
2-5hp
Remove Power Steering Belt
2-3hp
  9hp-18hp
Hidden Performance
$2000-6000
Drop In K+N Filter $80
2-5hp
Throttle Body $250
4-6hp
Extrude Hone the Stock Header 
$200-400
3-4hp
Test Pipe/HF. cat/ Or hollow $100-300
5-10hp
1.6L Dohc VTEC can upgrade to a 1.8L Bottom end
$1000
More hp/tq
Race Head
$500-4000
5-50hp
Hidden Nitrous System
$500-800
25-75shot
55-175hp
Cheap Plan
Cost $400-700
Cheap Intake $100
5-8hp
Nice Header $300
7-9hp
Throttle Body $250
3-6hp
        15hp-24hp
Simple Plan
Cost $800-1200
Cold Air Intake $230
8-10hp
Race Header 
$420
9-13hp
Exhaust 
$400

8-12hp
Throttle Body $250
4-6hp
      27hp-31hp
Budget Racer
$1300-2200
Cold Air Intake $230
8-10hp
Race Header 
$420

9-13hp
Exhaust 
$400

8-12hp
Throttle Body $250
4-6hp
Underdrive pulleys $250
4-5hp
Cam Sprocket $250
2hp-5hp.
  31hp-51hp
Street Monster
$2500-5000
Turbo Basic $2500-4000
70-110hp
Test Pipe/HF. cat $100-300
5-10hp
Exhaust
$420
10-15hp
Throttle Body
$250
6-10hp
Underdrive pulleys $250
6-8hp
Cam Sprocket $250 
5hp-10hp
Wires / Spark Plugs $150
2hp-4hp
104hp-167hp
All out race
Cost 10,000-????
Custom Race Turbo
$4000-9000
200-400hp
Electronic / Fuel Race Ignition
$800-2200
10-30hp
Custom Race Exhaust
$800
12-20hp
Race Intake Manifold
$800-2500
25-60hp
Race Head
$1200-3000
20-80hp
    267-590+

These plans are just for helping you figure out which way to go. How much horsepower to expect and perhaps what category restrictions you might be limited too. For the hidden performance its for those that want to either look stock for just fun or to hide it from the dealer or anyone else. These results might not be exact , but these are tried and true real world prices and dyno's that provide the info. Also the parts used are just some of the parts that can be used. Of course there's more to add on to some or some can skip some and use some of there own. These parts were selected by there availability and popularity. More exotic parts and others weren't used since they basically don't do much or are really hard to get.

 

As For Suspension Goes its simple....pay more handle better.
  Stage I Stage II Stage III Stage IV Stage V
Suspension Plan Spring Only
$100-200
Spring and Shocks-Non Adjustable
$400-800
Spring and Adjustable Shocks
$700
Coil-Overs
$1200-1500
Full Race Coil-Overs
$1500-2200
Explanation - About the suspension changes and difference in levels. Quick easy install , some kits lower too much for looks and you get a unsettled ride which isnt good for high speed bumps. Stock shocks will soon go. Now you have something to work with , even though they might be out of synch. This one you have a lot more to work with , you can adjust the shocks at least to try to match the springs and the car better. Yet still probably wont have a lot of travel, and you might just get a product that doesnt go well together These systems if really made for your car handle the best can be tuned like the stageIII but also have a bit more spring rate, ride height and travel. Which can help a lot. Street / Drag or Course Again just like stage IV but probably a higher known competition name or perhaps the shocks will have their own reservoir....which sometimes are controlled electronically from the car.

 

Brakes , bigger better stronger....pay morestop quicker.
  Stage I Stage II Stage III Stage IV Stage V
Braking Plan Sports/Race Pads Only
$100-200
Pads and Rotors
$400-800
Sport Brake kit
$700-1000
Race Brake Kits
$1100-1500
All out race.
$1500-2000
Explanation - About the brake changes. Upgrading to more efficient brake pads, some might cause some sound or more brake dust so watch out. Slotted Rotors are suggested for Street Cars and race pads will do. Just make sure their not some crazy kind that need to be real hot. Also good to add race/dot4 brake fluid. Great for the street, possible new caliper, might need bigger rims. If your not really going fast then this might be overkill, but then again you might like safety. Also consider changing lines. Made for high heat all the time applications , more emphasis on cooling and anything to do to slow down. This is because on the track you are on the brakes a lot. The street you brake a bit and then cruise.  Just like before but Anything from really oversized rotors & dual calipers .To materials made to handle anything. These kits will make any street tire the bottle-neck for braking faster.


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