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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey whats up, I was just wondering if anyone in this forum or if anyone knows if it's hard to get a 95 GSR to pull 13 sec. 1/4 miles. I wanna try to get into mid to high 13s naturally aspirated but if I can stay smog legal. Is this possible???
 

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GO WITH LS BOTTOM

U CAN START WITH THE LS BOTTON AND YOUR B18C HEAD THEN PORT HEADS, PISTONS, TYPE R CAMS, TYPE R MANIFOLD AND MORE U WILL SEE MAYBE 12'' AND THE LAST THING : U, THE DRIVER GOOD LUCK...
 

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Dont go with an LS bottom end thats just stupid, the rod ratio sucks so you cant rev as high. Get some big cams like Toda or JUN, Skunk manifold, hytech full exhaust, and CAI and I think you should be set to go. You might want to upgrade the valvetrain and pistons as well.
 

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Anything that will give you more than 200whp, try to lose some 200 lbs and very sticky tires. That could dip you down to mid to high 13s.
Not to mention about those bolts on stuff. Toda spec B camshafts, Port Flow Competition head work plus valvetrain, JDM ITR pistons set, Camgear, modified fuel and ignition system, hours on dyno, and good driver.
Actually, 13.5 sec/daily driven, all motor, full interior, street tires, is also my target.
I need to cut one more second off my time slip........
And your might need this.....

a $2,650 Toda sports injection kit, :D
 

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strangely not many N/A parts will keep you smog legal. Cams are awesome when tuned correctly... i have seen 30hp gains! BUT no smog legal.

Only thing N/A you can do is intake, header, exhaust, ignition... not sure about cam gears or underdrive pulleys... cams are mostly not smog legal and i doubt any have CARB... its really tought to tune all motor and be smog legal in my opinion. unless its got a CARB # it will fail visual.

only recommendation I got is a Greddy Turbo or JRSC... again i dont know of anyone who makes CARB certified cams or anything for major all motor tuning. If you can do it with bolt ons... go for it!
 

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I have seen quite a few race cars at NIRA events that have sub 14 sec on there time slips and still daily driven. One of them is my friend, he could run 14 flat all day long and never got any problem with emission test.
So, I think to go mid 13 to high 13 shouldn't be a problem.

F/I is excellent and will give you power right away.
But for me, I love to watch my Teg getting faster and faster, little by little. Try to squeeze as much power as possible from my daily driven N/A car.
This is just my thought.
 

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I think as long as it passes the test it should be fine. I mean, I don't think they'll ask to see the CARB EO #'s on the cams if its internal (they probably don't even know you have it since they can't see it).

But I think I remember Tuan saying a while back that the Toda spec B's should eb legal since he has them in his car for a while. But who knows, emmision tests from place to place varies?:confused:
 

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Dont forget about gearing too...that can help out a good bit in the quarter....

maybe a type r or b16 tranny...or maybe just a ats 4.9 fd for your gsr tranny....

190 whp will get you 13's...maybe even less whp on slicks...
 

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I'm shooting for mid to high 12's on some bogart's with my n/a b16. well, n/a before i acivate the NOS. All engine i am shooting for high 13's. higher compression, extreme cams (toda and jun don't like NOS from what I hear, not as well as others), vafc, i/h/e, vtec controller, tuning... then NOS
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm just considering forgetting about smog and having someone sign it off for a little extra money. The only way I could get caught for it is two ways. Either I get caught for illegal street racing, which i don't do anymore. Or if the government sends me a letter which hopefully won't happen.
 

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here it is

some weight reduction, no back seats no spare tire carbo fiber hood take all windshield squirters out, who need the back wiper as well, take out some sound deadeing in the back (i took out two big peices of foam from my si) and i have heard of i think ludeaction took out his bumper crash thingies from behind the back bumper easy 50 pound, all that together will have u weighing like 200-225 pounds less. then u upgrade the whole head. Cams,cam gears,valves,springs,retainers,everything lighter, port and slight polish. then turn u attention to the block, get some new pistons and rods, i would go with crower rods and je pistons get a nice 11.5c/r , u might want to think about boaring to a ****** boar maybe 83-84mm, 2.0 maybe even stroke it a lil maybe to like 91mm instead of like87 i think, if u stroke it crower makes a kit that cost 2200 for pistons and rods that balanced.u specify the c/r all that, then get a good suspension setup. then get a lighter flywheel and beter clutch, short shifter. there u go thats everything i can think of as far as "major" work. this is alot though but i tell u it will get u there. i am in the works of doing this now. hope i helped.
 
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