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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm working on a friends DX , the engine is sputtering when you step on the throttle (5 speed car) .
I replaced the fuel filter , spark plugs , and distributor cap and rotor .
I figured those would help but really did not .
If you step on the gas , it sputters and drops power until you ease off the throttle to near closed and then the car stops sputtering and slowly accelerates .
I thought of advancing the ignition timing since I have had a Nissan that did something similar but the dist. is turned to the farthest advanced setting already (yes I backed the timing down and sputter was the same) .
I disconnected the MAP sensor and the engine stalls . Bent the vacuum line to the sensor and then reved and the engine stalled so I assume the MAP is OK , unless it's reading wrong .
I don't know the test voltages for it ........
Disconnecting the TPS made no changes to accelerating and receiving a sputter , I also do not know the voltages for TPS tests .......

Very strange as it acts like a vacuum/timing issue to me but perhaps someone here had ad a car that acted like this one and can point me in the correct direction .

Thanks , Chris .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The wires look fairly new , the outside looks good and I did not notice anything down in the valve cover / head holes while installing the plugs .
I may recheck but Im pretty sure they are fine . Been running like this for 2 months now and I replaced the cap/rotor/fuel filter/plugs this weekend and it did not help .
 

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Replace Ignition Module, can't count how many times I have said this, anyways I have a 92 dx and those same symptoms were caused by a shitty igntion module/bad connection to ignition module. Pull the cap and rotor off and then remove the coil, if you look at the shaft where you removed the rotor below it will be an ignition module with 4 wires attached, 3 in the front and one on the left side (if your looking from the passanger side of the car.) Make sure they are connected well and if they are then you might have to replace the module...I don't remember right now if there was a formal test for the ignition module so make sure to check everything else out first.

Does this problem only happen when the car is warm or is it constant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Matters not , the problem showed itself tonight .
Got a call the car died . Went and looked and there is no spark .
It was dark so I did minimal testing . I did ground the - side of the coil and tried to get the coil to fire . It would arc off my lead pretty well but the coil was tossing a very small arc if any at all . Im pretty sure the coil is done . The coil body also has a discolored spot and a Honda I worked on before did something similar but it blew a hole in the side of the coil .
I need to check both the coil and module tomorrow morning before I spend the guys $$ . Hopefully I can find the test sequence in the book , though Im 99% sure the coil has failed .
 

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not trying to thread jack... but i have the exact to at least very similiar problem

when the car is fully warmed... it shuttles in 3rd gear (automatic trans)

when the car is between full cold to almost fully warmed (like i parked the car for like an hour and a half.. and the temperature dropped half way but not all the way), anywhere in between... the car will not "accerlerate" it will go up to around 2.3k rpm and the car feels like it's out of gas of hit a rev limiter that doesn't allow it to get pass.... but it doesn't shuttles, just feels out of breath like someone almost completely shut down all the air that's going into the engine

d15b7, 144000miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK,
Here is the down-low for future questions/problems like this car had .

The Coil was weak but was still firing . I retested it this AM and it was within specs on it's Ohm testing . I then fired it myself by disconnecting the - (negative) coil wire and turning the ignition on and running a test lead to engine ground and against the coil - lead . The coil sparked but weakly .
I decided to remove the ignitor to check it out .
The inside of the distributor had alot of rust-looking-dust in it . I was not sure what it was or where it had come from as the distributor is aluminum and most internal parts were coated and not rusty .
Once the ignitor was out , the cause was found .
The chopper wheel for the distributor had been cutting into the surface of the ignitor . Im not sure how it could happen as the distributor bushings seemed fine . Im not sure if the mount for the ignitor or the ignitor itself warped from heat and age and began contacting the chopper wheel .
The "rust" was actually brown plastic from the ignitor .
The screws were all tight for the ignitor mount so Im not sure what happened but it did make contact with the chopper so ......
I bought a NEW , no core charge -rebuilt Distributor for $185.xx from Central Auto Parts in Cocoa , Florida .
Total tax and all out the door was $196.xx . It includes the entire distributor , with a brand new cap and rotor , all internal sensors , the coil , and ignitor .
Installed it and the car fired right up . I did a timing by ear until I can get a timing light to run it with . I had it advanced a little too much and the engine was pinging so I backed it off hair . Seems fine now but I have to get my timing light back and then I can set it correctly .
When I drove the car it accelerates flawlessly , no more sputtering / missing . The engine just takes off and screams up to the shift point without hesitation .

So , if your car is bogging/sputtering like this one was and when you remove the distributor cap and find a "rust" colored dust inside , there is a good chance you ignitor is rubbing the chopper wheel .

Perhaps there is a adjustment to the ignitor , I dunno as I never adjusted it . The NEW unit also comes with a lifetime warranty whereas most ignitors I saw had only a 1 year warranty .

Hope my discovery helps someone down the road . Thanks for the help , Chris .
 

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Mine is starting to sputter. although it isnt as intense as you have shown, im almost positve mine are fowled plugs. and speaking of that, im going to go work on my car lol
 

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I'm working on a friends DX , the engine is sputtering when you step on the throttle (5 speed car) .
I replaced the fuel filter , spark plugs , and distributor cap and rotor .
I figured those would help but really did not .
If you step on the gas , it sputters and drops power until you ease off the throttle to near closed and then the car stops sputtering and slowly accelerates .
I thought of advancing the ignition timing since I have had a Nissan that did something similar but the dist. is turned to the farthest advanced setting already (yes I backed the timing down and sputter was the same) .
I disconnected the MAP sensor and the engine stalls . Bent the vacuum line to the sensor and then reved and the engine stalled so I assume the MAP is OK , unless it's reading wrong .
I don't know the test voltages for it ........
Disconnecting the TPS made no changes to accelerating and receiving a sputter , I also do not know the voltages for TPS tests .......

Very strange as it acts like a vacuum/timing issue to me but perhaps someone here had ad a car that acted like this one and can point me in the correct direction .

Thanks , Chris .
I'm working on a friends DX , the engine is sputtering when you step on the throttle (5 speed car) .
I replaced the fuel filter , spark plugs , and distributor cap and rotor .
I figured those would help but really did not .
If you step on the gas , it sputters and drops power until you ease off the throttle to near closed and then the car stops sputtering and slowly accelerates .
I thought of advancing the ignition timing since I have had a Nissan that did something similar but the dist. is turned to the farthest advanced setting already (yes I backed the timing down and sputter was the same) .
I disconnected the MAP sensor and the engine stalls . Bent the vacuum line to the sensor and then reved and the engine stalled so I assume the MAP is OK , unless it's reading wrong .
I don't know the test voltages for it ........
Disconnecting the TPS made no changes to accelerating and receiving a sputter , I also do not know the voltages for TPS tests .......

Very strange as it acts like a vacuum/timing issue to me but perhaps someone here had ad a car that acted like this one and can point me in the correct direction .

Thanks , Chris .
my 92 civic dx sedan has been doing the same i have a d15b in it and i changed sparkplugs ,distributor ,tps, map ,fuel filter. AND NOTHING i have had it i need help SOS haha
 
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