200+ hp B18's
200 seems to be the magic number to set the men from the boys in the all-motor camp. Remember, you will always have to sacrifice street-ability for power when it comes to these kinds of set-ups. From my experience, I paid the price. Litteraly. I blew my stock B18C1 up being dumb and not knowing the sound of a spun bering. Kaboom- #4 rod throught the "front" of the block.
I needed something cheap, but wanted more power while I was at it. B18A longblock set me back only $450. I had been sort of a half-assed all motor guy before this, but decided that the power of putting in Civic Type R pistons into the block would be a lot of fun. So I did that. Pieceing this motor together and getting the cash took 4 months, and the 91 oct gas that sat in the car was that old. After letting the motor go through it's initial initial break in by idling it, just taking it around the industrial complex let to MASSIVE ping. Long story short, the motor refused anything below 101 octane.
Since this is your daily driver, you could try some B16A pistons in your GS-R block. The Compression ratio will elude to be around 12:1-- in my opinion it's the highest you can go until you'll need race gas (101 R-35 Philips race fuel ran me $3.00/gal. The gas station was 10 mi from my house, and was only open M-F 7-5, Sat 7-12. I would bring 9 gal. worth of gas cans with me so I could fill-up at home).
I'd say 12:1 compression. Try not to exceed 25 overbore. You'll want your head ported. Not too agressively, but take it to someone who KNOWS what is good for nautrally aspirated DOHC VTEC engines. You'll want fairly agressive cams (JUN 2, TODA B spec, Skunk2 or anything greater. I'm not a firm believer in American cams, but that's just my opinion. The Japanese have a much broader experience with our engines. OEM cams will not help you here. Eventhough we're not talking about 1/4 mi times initially in this thread, a B16 tranny with a LSD (please don't go for a phantom grip, they are junk) will seriously help your cause.
If you're running at the track, I had great sucsess with unbolting my whole exhaust system and running straight out the header. This all sounds wack, but I dropped a good .3 sec off my time doing this, the famed "but you need backpressure" applies, but not when you're in VTEC the entire time. I did notice a lot of torque loss, but that was before my VTEC point of 5200, then the response was amazing. It's the same if you've ever completely taken your intake tube off your throttle body. Low end is WEAK, but the top end benefits (not as much as the exhaust). Don't get pissed at me if you suck a bee in your engine though.
All the V8 guys will look at you like you're on crack w/ that obnoxious sound coming from under your car. The sound is amazing when your VTEC kicks in. You'll want fuel tuning as well, screw A/F ratio gauges. They're junk. Get on the Dyno and use the wideband, and minimumly, a V-AFC or similar piggyback unit. V-AFC's are good, because they're common. Dyno operators, generally, will know how to tune the wideband in conjunction w/ the V-AFC. You don't necessarly have to raise your redline, 8000rpm will sufice on a lot of the cams, but the more agressive profile, the more benefit to a boosted redline. Slicks are always a good time, but keep in mind this is your daily driver. If you need to get to work the next day, don't be a jackass like me and throw the slicks on, bounce it off the rev limiter at 8k, and drop it. The acceleration indented the back of my fiberglass MOMO rookie seat, and was an awesome feeling of a 1.9sec 60' time, but right at the end of the track (and the end of 4th gear in my CTR tranny) the teeth on the tip of my passenger side axel had completely stripped.
But anyway, sorry to incorperate all my BS stories into the post about your car-- and sorry for the long read, but I'm wasiting time at school between classes-- haha, ask if you have any questions.
Chris Vandell
I'm looking at adding a fairly radical cam, cam gears, port/polish head, Hondata, Quaife, etc. that should turn about 200 whp on the dyno. My question is about what should be my 0-60, quarter mile time and speed. I would like to stay n/a. I am also looking at changing to ctr pistons, so altering compression.
