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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:p I'm looking at adding a fairly radical cam, cam gears, port/polish head, Hondata, Quaife, etc. that should turn about 200 whp on the dyno. My question is about what should be my 0-60, quarter mile time and speed. I would like to stay n/a. I am also looking at changing to ctr pistons, so altering compression.

Any other ideas? I would like to wait for the type R, but uncertain when it will be available.......
 

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if you set every thing up right and do i/h/e/cams/camgears/intake manifoild/and high compression pistions 200 most likely will not be a problem. but a turbo will cost you the same as all that and will give you more. turbos are the best way to go. i only wish i could afford one.
 

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N/A

yeah but by going N/A you don't have to worry about anything having to spool up to get your power. just step on the gas and lay down the law.

true a turbo will give the car more power, but in the long run it could cost you more if you blow your shit.
 

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Re: N/A

LsVtecR said:
yeah but by going N/A you don't have to worry about anything having to spool up to get your power. just step on the gas and lay down the law.
By going N/A you don't have to worry about anything having to spool up to get your power? That's fine, you just won't have any power at all ;). Just kidding, some N/A cars are beasts on the track. If you're looking for an answer to turbo spooling, look no further than N2O. Nitrous will obliterate that downtime while you wait for your turbo to spool :).

LsVtecR said:
true a turbo will give the car more power, but in the long run it could cost you more if you blow your shit.
That is why you should always make sure to buy all the necessary turbo management parts. That way you know when something's wrong before it's an issue. By this I mean electronics. I wouldn't be comfortable running a turbo'd setup without the the following:
-Boost Gauge
-Air/Fuel Meter
-EGT Gauge
-Oil Pressure Gauge
-Turbo Timer
-Profec Boost Controller

Those are the necessary parts for monitoring your turbo to make sure nothing is wrong. If I've left anything out please feel free to add it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies, guys. I think that I will stay n/a. But do you have any ideas what I should be expecting with 0-60 time, and quarter mile time? There are several mustangs, wrx's, etc that I would like to compare times aganist.
 

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This is what I did

I had a heavily ported head with titanium retainers, double springs and lighter valves, a modded(jun) ecu that reved to 9000 rmp's and some nice Jun "b" camshafts. I was able to lay down 202 at the wheels with a ITR USDM tranny and lsd, and did a 14.29 at the track with some weight reduction. It was NOT cheap, i just pulled all of it out about 2 months ago for a JRSC. I had to go back to a stock head and ecu, but I was able to sell the modified head to offset the cost of the blower and accessories. I am doing between 220 and 230 at the wheels now, I haven't been able to dyno yet, I still need to lighten the flywheel, and I think I am going to change out the JR FMU for a modified Cartech unit. Just my $0.02 Jim
 

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how many people who have answered this thread actually have a 200 whp integra ?
 

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I would trade my car for a NA 200whp integ in a heart beat. If you're serious about NA be prepared for a lot of down time on your car while youre working on it...getting your head work...and lots and lots of dyno time. If you got the cash...its the way to go imho.
 

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Re: This is what I did

GrooveMaster said:
I had a heavily ported head with titanium retainers, double springs and lighter valves, a modded(jun) ecu that reved to 9000 rmp's and some nice Jun "b" camshafts. I was able to lay down 202 at the wheels with a ITR USDM tranny and lsd, and did a 14.29 at the track with some weight reduction. It was NOT cheap, i just pulled all of it out about 2 months ago for a JRSC. I had to go back to a stock head and ecu, but I was able to sell the modified head to offset the cost of the blower and accessories. I am doing between 220 and 230 at the wheels now, I haven't been able to dyno yet, I still need to lighten the flywheel, and I think I am going to change out the JR FMU for a modified Cartech unit. Just my $0.02 Jim
Dude, you are either full of isht, or you don't know how to drive.

202 whp, even with a crappy launch is 13.4-13.6 ON STREET TIRES, expecially with an R tranny.

Jun doesn't make any "b" cams, there are other trim names they use, you should know what I mean.
 

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blkgsr1 said:
:p I'm looking at adding a fairly radical cam, cam gears, port/polish head, Hondata, Quaife, etc. that should turn about 200 whp on the dyno. My question is about what should be my 0-60, quarter mile time and speed. I would like to stay n/a. I am also looking at changing to ctr pistons, so altering compression.

Any other ideas? I would like to wait for the type R, but uncertain when it will be available.......
CTR pistons in a stock GS-R head/block is about 12.5:1 static compression, high, but can be made streetable with good tuning, and high overlap/aggresive cams (that way your dynamic compression is lower).

And unless you have some nice parts getting the air OUT of your engine, that plan will not make 200 whp. You'll need a very aggressive diameter tubing on your header (think Hytech or SMSP for custom stuff, or Toda and Spoon for off the shelf). Add a high flow cat, and full 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust, and that should handle the exhaust side.
 

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200+ hp B18's

200 seems to be the magic number to set the men from the boys in the all-motor camp. Remember, you will always have to sacrifice street-ability for power when it comes to these kinds of set-ups. From my experience, I paid the price. Litteraly. I blew my stock B18C1 up being dumb and not knowing the sound of a spun bering. Kaboom- #4 rod throught the "front" of the block.

I needed something cheap, but wanted more power while I was at it. B18A longblock set me back only $450. I had been sort of a half-assed all motor guy before this, but decided that the power of putting in Civic Type R pistons into the block would be a lot of fun. So I did that. Pieceing this motor together and getting the cash took 4 months, and the 91 oct gas that sat in the car was that old. After letting the motor go through it's initial initial break in by idling it, just taking it around the industrial complex let to MASSIVE ping. Long story short, the motor refused anything below 101 octane.

Since this is your daily driver, you could try some B16A pistons in your GS-R block. The Compression ratio will elude to be around 12:1-- in my opinion it's the highest you can go until you'll need race gas (101 R-35 Philips race fuel ran me $3.00/gal. The gas station was 10 mi from my house, and was only open M-F 7-5, Sat 7-12. I would bring 9 gal. worth of gas cans with me so I could fill-up at home).

I'd say 12:1 compression. Try not to exceed 25 overbore. You'll want your head ported. Not too agressively, but take it to someone who KNOWS what is good for nautrally aspirated DOHC VTEC engines. You'll want fairly agressive cams (JUN 2, TODA B spec, Skunk2 or anything greater. I'm not a firm believer in American cams, but that's just my opinion. The Japanese have a much broader experience with our engines. OEM cams will not help you here. Eventhough we're not talking about 1/4 mi times initially in this thread, a B16 tranny with a LSD (please don't go for a phantom grip, they are junk) will seriously help your cause.

If you're running at the track, I had great sucsess with unbolting my whole exhaust system and running straight out the header. This all sounds wack, but I dropped a good .3 sec off my time doing this, the famed "but you need backpressure" applies, but not when you're in VTEC the entire time. I did notice a lot of torque loss, but that was before my VTEC point of 5200, then the response was amazing. It's the same if you've ever completely taken your intake tube off your throttle body. Low end is WEAK, but the top end benefits (not as much as the exhaust). Don't get pissed at me if you suck a bee in your engine though.

All the V8 guys will look at you like you're on crack w/ that obnoxious sound coming from under your car. The sound is amazing when your VTEC kicks in. You'll want fuel tuning as well, screw A/F ratio gauges. They're junk. Get on the Dyno and use the wideband, and minimumly, a V-AFC or similar piggyback unit. V-AFC's are good, because they're common. Dyno operators, generally, will know how to tune the wideband in conjunction w/ the V-AFC. You don't necessarly have to raise your redline, 8000rpm will sufice on a lot of the cams, but the more agressive profile, the more benefit to a boosted redline. Slicks are always a good time, but keep in mind this is your daily driver. If you need to get to work the next day, don't be a jackass like me and throw the slicks on, bounce it off the rev limiter at 8k, and drop it. The acceleration indented the back of my fiberglass MOMO rookie seat, and was an awesome feeling of a 1.9sec 60' time, but right at the end of the track (and the end of 4th gear in my CTR tranny) the teeth on the tip of my passenger side axel had completely stripped.

But anyway, sorry to incorperate all my BS stories into the post about your car-- and sorry for the long read, but I'm wasiting time at school between classes-- haha, ask if you have any questions.

Chris Vandell
 

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AcuraBro is BACK!

I haven't seen you or any of your posts in a long time but, I haven't been here in awhile before the boards revamp. I do remember your Green Demon vividly though.

My 2nd R is doing very well, I just dynoed it with I&H at 172HP and 124 TQ. I was happy to say the least. I'll be going back soon to tune with cam gears, FPR and VAFC.

Just for info, I had the ATS 4.929 final drive and Toda flywheel installed this last week. IMHO it is Very worth it. Especially for me since I Auto-X and hang with the course crowd now. If you or anyone is interested I can provide a full and concise review of it's results and my driving impressions.

OK, to the real reason I posted.

When I Dynoed a couple of weeks ago, I also helped a good friend tune his car to extract more from it after his Toda B's were installed. So he has the B's and full Toda/Ferria powertrain buildup, B18C5, Mugen headgasket, AEM/CAI, Spoon 4-2-1, straightpipe, Thermal R&D catback, ITR tranny, ATS LSD, ATS FD, Toda flywheel, Toda camgears, Yada yada yadd...

My diluted point is that his origional car in stock form only posted a 164 hp, then after it's major buildup it started with 186hp and after a day tuning made 194HP with 137TQ.

So the quest for the magic 200HP with an NA is an elusive one as AcuraBro very well knows. Even with a ITR/CTR hybrid and Toda B's and the compression adjustment and a whole day of dyno tuning, it is not just a simple walk in the park. BTW, after his tuning the gears and timing, we both see that the idle is rougher but, still acceptable.

Thats my .02!

N/A is my way and alot of others but it isn't easy, cheap or fast, And it must be done correctly.

Good luck,

A.

PS it is so good to see the old guys active again, seems like only yesterday that I was just contemplating If I should get that New AEM/CAI sans the unavailable bypass valve. I guess I dated myself a little...
 

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Yeah man

Seriously. Up here at my altitude of 6000ft (as my old saying goes) my set up pushed 176whp, 130lb/ft torque. But I've heard altitude gets ya for like 18% whp up here... so do the math and I come up with just about 207whp.

Daremo-- you sure 'bout that one? I thought ITR pistons in a GS-R block put out 11:1, and B16 has a higher dome than the Type R's. That's my rational.

Yeah dude, I remember seeing pictures of you going down the track in your Gen 3 grey LS, hence the name. haha, speaking of names, I have the lamest SN (and posting name). The story behind it was, when I first got my drivers licence (4 yrs ago), I got my mom's car. It was a '92 S/\TURN (as I typed it). Of course being my pride and joy, I made a screen name for AOL to match the rice on my car, which included GTS blackouts, Catz Fog lights, Sprint Springs, and a welded on rice muffler... oh Intake and a ported 52mm Throttle body. My Screen name??? SaturnBro. Well, when I got the integ my senior year in high school, I kept the tradition alive with what I still have-- AcuraBro. Anyway, yeah, it's good to see all the old people on here. Even the staff is new. What happend to the days of Nam and Brian (TK8Blazer, KrAnKyKrEmE), and Garret and Steve (Gvtec, MorningZ). I could go on forever. Ahhhh nostalga.:cool:
 

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I still keep up with Krankykreme,"Brian" but, he's usually busy. I do however have recent PICS of his car and all he's done to it but, I don't have a host for them. JunglistGSR went the way of HT but, he's back and now a mod I believe. I also talk and purchase from TypeRmsm frequently. I haven't seen Bam or the others in awhile. Like Archie and Edith "sang those were the days!" I do frequently talk to Tuan here on SHO but, now I usually end up adding tech info or links to his posts.

Currently I am running in Street Mod class. I will be racing this coming Sunday for the first race of this season out here on the East Coast. I have the following Mods;

Comptech "full Icebox"
Spoon 4-2-1 header
Carsound 94006 HF cat
ATS 4.929 Final Drive
Toda Flywheel
Stock rims with RE010's 195/55/15 and another set for the future
Volk TE-37's with Hoosier Auto-X rubber in 225/45/15
OMP pedals for the Heel-Toe thing

Heres a PIC of my car right before Tech at the last Auto-X of last season.





Heres me racin:





Glad to see you again and good to talk, Does it still say NEWBIE next to my name? Whats funnier is when it said that next to Tuan's name...

Good luck and talk soon,

Anton
 
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