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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so there is no confusion I drive a 94 civic with a B18B.

First question: I have recently been givin a 4-1 dc sports header this priced around $400 for my jdm b18b with a usdm exhaust manifold. the header has been slightly repaired and welded on at the bottom where the pipe flattens for ground clearence it was hit and was gashed up pretty bad.. my question is Do you guys think it is worth putting on? will it still be better than stock manifold the 2 center pipes may have a slightly smaller diemeter where the repair is. for free if i can get some gain it would be nice but i dont wanna do any damage..

second question: My syncros ( im not a great at spelling) in my transmission are going out 3rd is bad and now 4th is starting.. I have a S1 tranny that has been converted to hydraulic. my question is which of the two trannys are better? the S1 or the S80.

3rd question: simple.. I was wanting to do a tune up on my car and want to adjust the valves is this something i can manage with out screwing up my engine? I dont know everything about cars but ive always changed all my own parts and did the swap myself and have a good knowledge about engins, but when it comes to internals and head work im scared to mess with it for obvious fears.

Thanks in advance for any help. and screw u in advance ppl that wanna give me shit for this post... :D:hehe
 

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1. What are you future plans? You won't feel any gains with any header at this point anyways. Are you planning to boost like your name? If so, obviously don't get an aftermarket N/A header. Good condition DC-S headers aren't very expensive anyways...they give such little gains on small builds, you want as much as you can get from it IMO.

2. They're very close in their ratios. The S80 has a bigger final drive meaning more torque to the wheels in each gear than the S1. Check out the transmission sticky at the top of the Integra forum for exact specs.

3. You can do a valve lash job if you like. First step would be to get the feeler gauge and see if the gap between the rocker/valve is within spec. Get an Integra shop manual to keep track of which nuts do what etc for tightening the rockers blah blah. Read up on valve lashing to understand what it's all about. Why are you starting with a valve lash? Is the motor doing something that points you towards improperly set valves?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. What are you future plans? You won't feel any gains with any header at this point anyways. Are you planning to boost like your name? If so, obviously don't get an aftermarket N/A header. Good condition DC-S headers aren't very expensive anyways...they give such little gains on small builds, you want as much as you can get from it IMO.

2. They're very close in their ratios. The S80 has a bigger final drive meaning more torque to the wheels in each gear than the S1. Check out the transmission sticky at the top of the Integra forum for exact specs.

3. You can do a valve lash job if you like. First step would be to get the feeler gauge and see if the gap between the rocker/valve is within spec. Get an Integra shop manual to keep track of which nuts do what etc for tightening the rockers blah blah. Read up on valve lashing to understand what it's all about. Why are you starting with a valve lash? Is the motor doing something that points you towards improperly set valves?
yes my future plans are to boost but that has been put on hold and i wont have any cash to sink into her for atleast 6 months. so im gonna be daily driving N/A for awhile which sucks bad with 3" exhaust it was on the car when i bought it was not my idea i cant hear myself think im sure the header wont make it any better lol... the header is going to be completely free to me im installing it myself i have access to a shop and welder. so basicly is it worth the hr or 2 it will take for me to install with it being damaged and all. i know its not going to give me any real gains but it has to atleast help with throttle response and such right? i mean its gotta be better that the 4-1 manifold that is a lil restrictive i think..

the reason i said valves its just one of the things on the major tune up id like to do.. it basicly came off the crate and into the car i changed plugs wires and such when i installed the engine. the engine is said to have 30-40k miles when i got it so id like to know everything is running properly. and i could be a bit picky but i do hear a slight pinging noise i believe.

Thanks a ton for the info it was very helpful.
 

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If you're bored, and want to get your hands....slightly dirty lol, you could slap on the header. Most of the "gains" will probably be psychological from a different sound tone. Better throttle response is usually correlated with a less restrictive / better flowing intake. Or you could try to fix up the header, and sell it for like $50 to help offset the cost of your eventual turbo header.

A compression test would let you know what's up with the motor. It might direct you towards some other tune-up areas. Clicking could be good ol' Honda injectors, to a loud clacky valvetrain. Hopefully it's not actual piston pinging or slapping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
to be honest i was told it was a t3/t4 it was bought from a friend of a friend slightly used he was hard up for cash and i got it really cheap so i grabbed it up it is in great shape. it is Garrett made, it is written on the serial code tab "made in Japan" with the garrett logo and serial codes and Garrett is written on the compressor housing

A/R .80 is the size. also has M-24 written on the compressor housing im not sure what the m-24 is for i have tried to look up the serial numbers but with no results

I also have a greddy piggyback i got with it..
 

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I don't think M24 means much. After some quick research, people have M24 stamped on the cover for a huge range of turbo sizes.

Edit: Need more info on the turbo after I tried to figure it out from the info you gave me. Seems to be a T25.

This it? eBay.com.sg: Garrett M-24 A/R 80 Turbo Charger-Coupe Cabriolet (item 250376313067 end time Feb 26, 2009 12:28:30 SGT)

If it's a T3/T4, that .80 a/r would be huge...maybe an SR20 guy (wonder who that could be) could shed some light on this M24 dealio.

Wow...major computer freeze when trying to change WiFi networks.

Anyways, if it is indeed a .80 T3/T4, get rid of that thing, it's way too big, and you'll never hit boost on the street, and you'll be really pissed. You need something small that will spool really quick....a .80 a/r T25 would be better...or GT28, not sure if the T25 is too small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep thats it in the picture. thanks for clearing up the confusion, Im glad to finally have my facts straight. I dont know much about turbos except what parts you need to run one, and the basic knowledge on how they work.

So is it suitable for my engine? im looking to run around 10psi i was told they can hold 1 bar on stock but im not trying to push it.. i was thinking 7-10lbs would be safe. i was told that it was on a ls when the guy blew the engine trying to see how much boost it could hold... :( some rich asian guy with engines to blow for fun.
 

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Sorry, read my edited post...my computer was going crazy.

You need to set a power goal if you're looking for max power on stock parts (300whp). Different setups will need different pounds of boost to hit that kind of power.

Sorry, I still can't quite tell by that picture what turbo family it's from, maybe somebody else can....or maybe I'll figure it out in a bit. If the seller is smart...he wouldn't be putting a huge turbo on his Miata...but lots of people put turbos that are way too big on their cars...so..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Im not looking for big power ive had a set hp goal for around 250whp anything after that and i believe id have serious traction problems and also this is going to be my daily driver so ideally id like to be somewhere in the 220-250whp im not looking to be super fast. id just like to eat mustang GT's for lunch lol which isnt saying much there slow
 

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Yea you won't have any issues at 250whp as long as it's tuned well, and the motor is generally in good health. You just need to figure out what to do about the turbo. If you're sure its a T3/T4, then get rid of it, and start looking for a smaller one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
like i said thats just what i was told.. after reading what u said and comparing it with other turbos i dont think its a t3/t4 its rather small its the size of like a 16G. heres a picture giving u something to judge its size its smaller than a 20oz bottle
 

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that's not a t3/t4. that's a t25g off of a silvia they go for 300 brand new and 150 used. that turbo has a t2 flange. it's a tiny little bastard like the stock on my car. you won't see more than 250whp on a good tune with that thing.



it's the same turbo on my car. if you shooting for under 250whp that turbo is ideal for your engine. oil and water cooled journal bearings. very reliable and a quick spooler. you'll definitely take stock evo's and sti's with it. i do it in my rwd car and i have more drive train loss than you. you'll need a t2 flanged manifold to run that turbo though
 

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Thanks Marques, that's what I thought. That'd definitely be sweet for the street...can't hook up on street tires above 250whp in our cars anyways...unless you want to run drag radials on the street and replace them every month.

I think I'll go with something a tad bigger when it's time to move on from NA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sweet! thanks guys for clearing that up, you were a tremendous help.:D:number1

it has just sparked my intrest again... ive kinda gotten away from the car to spend money else where, but screw that im getting that baby on the car asap.
 
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