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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
here's the information i've come across when doing this swap, i'm sure others can contribute to this as well.

1) expect to take about a week if doing it in spare time. overall, i probably worked for 48 straight hours to do this with 1-2 people. never had more than 1 person helping me. and honestly, i would consider myself a novice to somewhat experienced in this stuff. i'm not comfortable with rebuilding internals just yet.

2)Help is great. in fact, i wouldn't have been able to do this without it i don't think. Many thanks to Ace and my Dad, but more so my dad--even though you cut through my fuel line ;)

Now, things you'll absolutely need to do this on a 6th gen civic:

Mounts
other than the motor, tranny, linkage, etc; you'll need the mounts to accompany a b-swap. on a 6th gen civic, here's the part numbers for the OEM honda parts i used:

50827-S04-N10 BRACKET, RR.
50825-S04-000 BRACKET, TRANS MTG
11910-P30-000 BRKT, ENGINE MOUNT
50843-S04-N10 BRKT, R. FR. STOPPER

I have heard that the Trans mount bracket isn't needed, and upon inspection it wasn't. but, i ended up using the one i ordered so i could still move the old d16y8 around by that bracket with the cherry-picker.

for the torque mounts on the engines that the a/c condenser and the front tranny bracket mount to, you'll have to either get nuts to fit the b-series shafts, or just remove the shafts from the d series mounts and put them on the b-series bracket. they unscrew, so no worries there. there's a hex-head slightly hidden on them.

other than that, use the civic rubber for all mounts.

Installtion
It's nearly a drop-in affair, if you have the right tools available at your disposal. removing the crank pulley is the way to go to get this in, but if you don't have a pulley holder, you can remove the condenser, p/s pump, and alternater to get the right amount of twist and jimmy the engine in. but the alternator is a bitch to get back in, so i would suggest making your own pulley holder if you know how to weld, or know someone that does:

get a nut thats the same size as the cutout in the pulley around the pulley nut, weld a hollow pipe for socket access to the pulley nut and a bar to hold onto to keep the pulley from moving, and waa-laa, a diy pulley remover for about $10 (thanks Chiltons manual for that bit of info).

A/C stuff
there are brackets you can get to mount the d series compressor on a bseries motor, thus negating having to remove the compressor from the lines and evacuating the system. the part number for the bracket(s) i got are:
38930-P7J-000 BRACKET, COMPRESSOR38941-PR3-000 BRACKET, IDLER
these cost about $120 to ship new from honda. However, i wasn't smart enough to figure out to use this setup. also, the motor i bought came with the compressor, so i decided to use that.

when switching to a b-series compressor though, the stock high and low a/c lines are somewhat difficult (if not impossible) to use. i was told to bend the lines, and i was also told that an auto-air shop should be able to fabricate new ones relatively cheap. i have not ventured down that road yet.

Fuel line
The fuel line on the d16y8 has 2 prongs that stick out to prevent it from moving. this is a problem when attempting to fit the line from the filter to the fuel rail on the b18b1 because those prongs keep it from going on either the filter or the rail. so after deciding i was going to have to buy a new line anyway, we used an air grinder and ground the prongs down. unfortunately, dad got a little to happy with the grinder and nearly cut completely through the brass fitting. yes, i'm still using it at this time. it holds pressure fine, no fuel leaks as of 30,000 miles.

Transmission/clutch lines
ah, this was tricky. the slave cylinder line that goes into the actual cylinder is slightly longer than what's on the d-series. once everything was in, we realized that this was losing fluid, and upon comparison, knew we had to change it. after driving all over town trying to find a place to buy a new line, we decided to run by a semi-truck place and just had them cut the d16y8 line, and put the b18b fitting on the old line, then flare the ends. best $1.50 i have ever spent.

Power steering
The line for the d16y8 that goes into the top of the power steering pump (the steel line that screws in) the male end is too large to accomdate a b series pump, so this line will either have to be changed, or loop the lines. i may change the line someday, but for now the lines are looped.
Update - due to local laws, i had to get a line made. I sourced an integra line from the junkyard, and had a hose shop fab up a p/s integra end, and the civic rack end. it ended up costing about $80, and you can find b16 civic lines for ~$90 online in some places. however, i'm not certain the b16 line will work.

Wiring (many thanks to klungemonger for helping me stay sane with this one)
the wiring is pretty straight foward when staying the same obd as you are. going from a 98 d16y8 to a 97 b18b1, there are 3 plugs leftover: two vtec plugs and the knock sensor. everything else is nearly in the same spot with the exception of the primary O2 sensor being at the end on the exhaust manifold just before the cat and must be extended; as well as the crankshaft fluctuation sensor and evap purge control solenoid sensor need to be exteneded.
the air intake temperature sensor on the d16y8 is built into the intake hose, but in the b18b1 it is on the opposite side on the intake manifold itself. the plugs are different, so having the teg harness is desirable, otherwise i'm sure you can get the plug from a dealer. but that needs to be wired in regardless.

radiator
possibly one of the biggest hurdles i faced was finding a 99-00 civic si radiator in one day. the d-series radiator has 30mm outlets, and the b series require 32mm outlets. we tried like hell to get the oem hose to work on the b18, but there wasn't a snowballs chance in hell of that. after sourcing the radiator, new hose had to be gotten, which was also kind of a bitch to find, ended up getting the lower from oreillys, and the upper from autozone. for the upper there were two parts that matched for the b18, so we bought both and test fitted before cutting them to fit. also had to have new hose clamps.
I was also told recently that you could take a dremel and ground the end of the radiator hoses down to fit onto the b series motor. might be worth a shot, since you're going to replace the line, so it's not going to hurt if you mess it up i guess.


as for 5th gen civics, it should also be known that they use same mounts as a 94-01 teg.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i know ************ sucks, that's about it... i never was really able to find any great info about hybrids ... i know cspeed has a decent write up of how it's done ... that's about it though
 

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A stock B20 is identical to an OBD2 B18B swap. Except usually you will need to replace the stock intake manifold with aftermarket or at least a stock B18B manifold since the original one won't fit under a Civic hood.

IF you are converting to OBD1 there is nothing special about the install or wiring under the hood that you need to do...just get your OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness and plug in your P75 or chipped P06 ecu. In some models, converting to OBD1 ecu will make underhood wiring even easier since there are some steps you can skip that are necessary for OBD2.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just a little update,

i finally got around to putting the d series compressor for a/c back on, but lost the tensioner pulley bolt on the highway :mad oh well, still haven't charged the system yet anyway :rolleyes

i also had to get the power steering hooked back up due to the fact that here in Missouri, if you have a power steering rack, you must have power steering hooked up;

so i decided to use the b18b pump, removed the civic line from the rack and inspected fittings.... same problem as the clutch line...fittings were different. so i went out to the local import junkyard and found a line off of an integra (the line from the rack to the pump). cost me about $40 for the line. after i got back home, i compared the lines.

the fitting on the teg line that goes to the rack was a bit larger than the civic line, and would not thread in. so i had to have it done custom as well. i had a new rubber hose made to length with the civic rack fitting, and the teg pump-end fitting.
 

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very nice writeup man. I still plan on swapping a B18b this summer and boosting it. So this will definitely come in handy
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OnBoostD16 said:
very nice writeup man. I still plan on swapping a B18b this summer and boosting it. So this will definitely come in handy
you sir, should have no problems getting it done...
nothing about the swap was hard, just being on a time-schedule, trying to do it right, taking way too much time, and a few minor inconvieniences was all. everything went down at my friends house (his dad has most any tool you can think of; master mechanic), and he ended up pretty much leaving me stranded, so my dad ended up helping me with most of it; and he's a "let's see if this works" kind of guy... he would try to put the ac compressor where the exhaust mani goes if it looked right bless his heart. anyway, short or weather short-comings for a couple days of the week, and the radiator and clutch fiasco we encountered that took 2 days out of the swap alone, it was a breeze.
 

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IISaiNtII said:
you sir, should have no problems getting it done...
nothing about the swap was hard, just being on a time-schedule, trying to do it right, taking way too much time, and a few minor inconvieniences was all. everything went down at my friends house (his dad has most any tool you can think of; master mechanic), and he ended up pretty much leaving me stranded, so my dad ended up helping me with most of it; and he's a "let's see if this works" kind of guy... he would try to put the ac compressor where the exhaust mani goes if it looked right bless his heart. anyway, short or weather short-comings for a couple days of the week, and the radiator and clutch fiasco we encountered that took 2 days out of the swap alone, it was a breeze.
Yeah thats what i was thinking. The swap alone doesnt sound too bad in itself, but the fact that i dont have many tools, let alone no air tools is what worries me. But now that i have another car, it shouldnt matter. The problem i ran in to when i did all the work on my civic, is that i needed it running the following day to get to work. So i took a few short cuts which i have to fix later, but thats the joy of modifying cars.

Also, in my case, i will be swapping an obd2 LS so it wont be bad at all when it comes to wiring and all that good stuff. Lets just jope i can get my axles out lol
 

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OnBoostD16 said:
Yeah thats what i was thinking. The swap alone doesnt sound too bad in itself, but the fact that i dont have many tools, let alone no air tools is what worries me. But now that i have another car, it shouldnt matter. The problem i ran in to when i did all the work on my civic, is that i needed it running the following day to get to work. So i took a few short cuts which i have to fix later, but thats the joy of modifying cars.

Also, in my case, i will be swapping an obd2 LS so it wont be bad at all when it comes to wiring and all that good stuff. Lets just jope i can get my axles out lol
you can get an obd2 LS in in a weekend. :tu
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OnBoostD16 said:
Yeah thats what i was thinking. The swap alone doesnt sound too bad in itself, but the fact that i dont have many tools, let alone no air tools is what worries me. But now that i have another car, it shouldnt matter. The problem i ran in to when i did all the work on my civic, is that i needed it running the following day to get to work. So i took a few short cuts which i have to fix later, but thats the joy of modifying cars.

Also, in my case, i will be swapping an obd2 LS so it wont be bad at all when it comes to wiring and all that good stuff. Lets just jope i can get my axles out lol
i would try it again with a metric set of wrenches and ratchets...

sears has been having some decent deals on tool "boxes." for about $200, you can get a shitload of sockets & ratchets, and a basic set of wrenches.
 

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I just bought a 95 civic with a b18b swap. Everything was done before i bought it, its obd1 and has power steering, ac, and all that good stuff. the only thing wrong with it is the suspension. and the problem is i have to use it to deliver pizza every day. could someone tell me what exactly i should have for front suspension, such as bushings. thanks.
 

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artudeetoo said:
I just bought a 95 civic with a b18b swap. Everything was done before i bought it, its obd1 and has power steering, ac, and all that good stuff. the only thing wrong with it is the suspension. and the problem is i have to use it to deliver pizza every day. could someone tell me what exactly i should have for front suspension, such as bushings. thanks.
This is probably the wrong place for this question.

But the 5/6th gen stock suspension is pretty damn solid if you want long lasting no worry suspension without the head ache of camber kits and wheel rubbing etc etc.
 

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Ok so the wiring thing is pretty much whats been keeping me from doing a swap into my ej8...

So if i get an OBD2 LS swap then the engine harness will plug right into the stock harness in the engine bay?? other than modifying those couple of things for the o2 sensor ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
kory_69_187 said:
Ok so the wiring thing is pretty much whats been keeping me from doing a swap into my ej8...

So if i get an OBD2 LS swap then the engine harness will plug right into the stock harness in the engine bay?? other than modifying those couple of things for the o2 sensor ect.
no, you'll use the harness that's already in your car. most of the plugs are in near the same location, with the exception of the few mentioned above that will just need to be extended. other than that, it's nearly a plug&play affair.
 
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