I have to apologize, after finding those results i looked into em and discovered its just a bunch of questions and whatnot, and no real writeup.
So I will provide my version, keep in mind I only done 2 F series headgaskets, and my last one was approx 2 years ago. Lets begin shall we?
Your biggest headache is getting at the timing belt tensioner, all you need to do is find that bolt and lossen it without removing it, and slip the timing belt off the cam gear. Take the valve cover bolts off, and find the big bolts on the bottom of the head and remove them, by loosing each bolt in a sequence. The idea is to prevent the head warping from simply removing each bolt as you find it.
Slipping the timing belt off the cam gear allows removal of the head, now its time to get a sharp razor blade, and carefully scrape off the old gasket, make every effort to prevent the head from being scratched by the blade.
New gasket, after spraying it on both sides with copper spray, it improves gasket lubrication and allows for a better seal. align the new gasket on the pins/dowels that are on the block. Once the new gasket is in place, remove the driver side wheel or turn the wheel to the left all the way, so you have access to that splash shield, usuually just 2 plastic screws, you can then use the ratchet itself on the crank bolt. All that needs to be done is using the ratchet and turning COUNTER clockwise, until you see the "UP" marking on the crank pulley to say up. Same with the cam gear in the head, you can use a ratchet and socket to do that. Once both the crank gear and cam gear markings say up properly, you can reinstall teh head, slip the timing belt back on, and tighten the tensioner again. Make sure there is NO slack in the belt betweeen the cam gear and crank, this is critical. if its off a tooth, your car will have troubles running correctly.
Hope this helps. Your biggest help is getting a 15 dollar manual at your local autozone or advance auto. This will cover the precedure as well, though my version gives you another prospective, as the manual will go on about removing the bitch bolt aka the crank pulley bolt (very diffficult of not setup correctly) and basically removing every belt on the car. My method involves simply loosening the timing belt tensioner. I did forget to mention, the other belts may get in the way, I would simply loosen the tensioners for those belts and then remove them. The alternator is adjusted by its mount, so simply loosening its mounting bolts will allow mnovement. You may find it easier to justb remove them as well.